True Slide

I had bc coils on my frs back in 2014, was not a fan of them at all. They offered about the same handling as stock with a harsher ride, the damping adjustments where hardly noticeable. I swapped to swift springs and 1 kg softer after a year and they where better but i swapped out to fortune auto 500s around 2015-2016 with the same springs and they blew them away.

April 2021 update, finally got on the dyno to see what all this work did and it came up at my current goal whp which was more then expected. 398whp after the 10th hot run. I wanted 400 so im content with this for now. I dialed in a bit more timing then i had originally setup on the street. I didnt expect this out of the mx8265 without a cam, i wouldnt recommend this turbo but it came with my engine so why not use it.

Thank you good sir

Haha its all good, no offense taken by posting up a pic. I think they look good, id leave them on. Ill take a set if you make more

Thanks, yea thats a good idea because trying to balance it at that angle took a few different locations. Those tabs are a good idea. Nice setup you have there. I may be moving up to bigger turbo myself in a year or so. I want 450whp but this little tomei isnt gonna do it

I know the pain, about 2 years ago we did a exedy twin disc on my boys 32 gtr on jack stands, it wasnt as bad as we where expecting. I had just repainted the covers after scratching them on removal so i did want to scar them up again on install but ya youre right i shoulda had a shop towel or something to cover it from dust and particals.

Thanks, it was just me and my boy. I put the movers blanket over the rad support, tilted the car up and just guided it slowly. The risk out weighed the pain of installing the trans on the ground haha.

Finally time to post an update. So while everything was out I managed to grind down the exhaust port humps whos existence just bothered me. 4 down 2 to go. Im not crazy about the iron/ aluminum color combo so the whole combo is painted in a fresh duplicolor "ceramic" engine paint and cleared. The old cracked belt was replaced with a Tomei timing belt. Then the main reason I pulled the motor is to handle this nasty engine bay. So some scuffing and masking. Onward to some hi temp primer. And then the finished product with 3 coats of primer, 3 color and 3 clear. And finally shoehorned in this clean matching trans and engine combo with many wires and hoses being relocated, extended or eliminated. Just after this the car received a new electric mac boost solenoid.

I have a neo but regular r32 gts trans, i rebuilt it and switched from mt90 to heavy weight shockproof. Stuffs great.

Id vote 1.5 way, i have a s15 helical in mine. It unloads alot and doesnt have a consistent tension between left and right. Kinda unpredictable imo.

I feel the same. I dont trust it enough to tune with

continued, dyno chart on the stock rb25 V3 turbo Then time for paint! This was shortly followed by sticking brake calipers soooo you know the drill and finally the current state, the noisy transmission got really bad so I pulled it and rebuilt it. and since the trans was out I mean why not pulled the engine? I'd been meaning to repaint the bay and drop in the freshly rebuilt Tomei turbo. Btw parts took months to ship over for the rebuild and I probably should have gone with a 3071r. oh well next year. Found a few small issues such as a dirty oil pick up and a very rusty alternator which shows why I had some funky charging situations at times. Timing belt was worn and oil pump was inspected so overall glad I took the extra step to check it all. Next update will be the repainted block and bay.

Thanks, theres a bunch more to add but i cant edit the original post or delete the duplicated pics haha. I will just add it under

I got this car in pretty rough shape but it had a running 25 neo, haltech and a specialties engine harness. It didnt run well, awful ecu calibration, blown tomei turbo, a fuel pump flying around the fuel tank and a parasitic drain on the battery. Ive had it for about a 1.5 years now at the time of starting this thread and Ive been thru every part of this car. Ive converted to electric fans, created a few relay circuits to eliminated the battery drain, relocated the battery and this list goes on and on. Its a fun side project so things aren't in a rush and I don't daily drive the car. It sees a few track days but I mostly run my Camaro ss for those. All work is done by me in my garage, even the ECU calibration. The over all paint job was sent to a body shop though. So current mod list is Engine-Rb25 neo stock with smoothed exhaust port humps Tomei MX8265 rebuilt, 3inch side exit, Greddy FMIC, Haltech platinum,Tomei timing belt, Denso 550cc, zerofab fuel rail, DW400 pump, unknown IM and 90mm TB, grimmspeed boost controller, Ebay radiator,hks cap, mishimoto fans, Spec stage 2+ clutch, 12lb flywheel Chassis- S15 Helical LSD, delrin subframe bushings, spherical rear tie rods and rucas, KBee coilovers altered spring rates, 300zx calipers, powerstop trackday pads, steel lines, Impul R5 wheels, 255/40r17 R888r, corner balanced, half stripped interior r32 gtr seats, personal steering wheel, gktech shifter springs and brass collar, poly steering rack bushings, spherical tension rods, s13 rear sway bar Seized and rusted ISR coilovers that came with the car had to be cut off the front stud Clutch fan failure is the reason I went electric New Shoes Then on to body work, dent repair and deleting the type M wing and making holes for the GTR wing Subframe refresh The used Kbee coilovers needed new bushings but I cant get in touch with them so I fitted some VW bus sway bar bushings into them haha nasty sound deading removal with dry ice Align and balance, thats the before weights Stock turbo dyno 248whp at 14psi

So my HR32 started making some crazy noises while driving a few weeks ago. At first it sounded like I had a rod knock just at idle but when stepping on the clutch the noise would go away and while driving it would make some loud winding/grinding noises in all gears except 4th. So after a bit of research and call some transmission shops around by me, nobody wanted to touch the old transmission in fear of not finding parts so that left it up to me. I did quite a bit a research but couldn't find an exact matching bearing kit for this trans. I took a chance at comparing pictures once I had the casings off and I was able to fit a kit on fully reassemble the trans. This thread is to help anyone with a RWD R32 who needs information in attempting to repair them. I did not need syncros but I took a kit with them for the couple $ extra they charged. Now the kit I used is BK133BWS from cobra transmission. The RP71C #2 does use the 3 piece 2nd gear syncro but the 3rd and 4 do not use the smaller syncros found in the later model trans. The earlier 80s kits do have the larger 3rd and 4th syncro but all the bearings are different. Maybe there is a kit that combines it but I couldn't find it and again I didn't need the syncros. Reverse is NOT synchronized on this model. The tools I used where a table vice, bearing puller, hammer and fire. Im not going to do a step by step breakdown but be weary of many little springs and balls falling all over the place.,