Bman1296

324.51RWKW, new turbo and other bits installed by the guys at Jaustech in SA. Tuned by Pete from Nistune on 98 fuel. Crazy good tune. Running just under 18 PSI and have full boost by 3300rpm, which was an improvement over my previous setup only hitting 18 PSI at 3800 RPM. Huge different in driving feel and power delivery. Could go higher boost, but don't want to Overall, very quiet still, but pulls very hard and to hit this power with under 18 PSI, with boost coming on that early is nuts IMO. The EWG port was added onto the hot side of the turbo, the stock manifold has been untouched. Still a low-mount. Specs: R34: RB25DET NEO Pulsar G30-660 turbo Turbosmart EWG and a 4 port solenoid to keep the gate shut and maintain boost. Tomei Poncams Type B 260deg APEXi Pod Filter Nistune ECU ARP head studs R35 GTR Injectors Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump GReddy Profec B-Spec II EBC Return flow FMIC (unsure of brand, I didn't do this one) Custom 3" Dump pipe with EWG plumb back. No screamer pipes here. High flow catalytic converter 3" Fujitsubo Giken FGK Exhaust. Koyorad Radiator Absolute killer setup!

Hey, sorry for the late reply. I had to take off the entire part with hose attached, one end going into the banjo joint on the power steering pump and the other part going all the way around to the steering rack. Bit annoying but did it with a bit of flexing under my jacked up car. Then took the whole thing to Pirtek and they put the new hose on. Then reinstalled it.

Hi All, I am experiencing a leak from a repaired (not by me) power steering hose line which comes directly out of the power steering pump and does a U-turn. Attached is a part diagram to describe the issue, and also a picture of the leak. The green shows the joiner which I believe was a repair job attempted previously, liquid is leaking from the bottom of this. Above the join is another, much smaller leak from a split in the hose. Essentially, the hose is getting old. Is it possible to get this hose replaced without ripping out the entire system? I have no clue how I would remove this hose, or if this is at all possible. Can I repair it in-situ?

I don’t think I’d like to compromise on the return flow so I’ll just keep that as it is. I might try the actuator trick one day. But yeah that’ll ruin my turbo faster due to the heat and extra stress. In the meantime im going to give 260° poncams a go, and change the tune to increase drivability.

Thanks! I'll have a look into what is reasonable for my setup. Glad to know that is most likely the return flow and internal gate, as maintaining the higher PSI would be preferable.

The cams I am going for a bit of lumpy idle (tuned that way hopefully! Sounds are important) and just to get a little bit extra power as I don't want to change the manifold and do EWG. The car looks stock and I'm trying to keep it like that, you're definitely right. I think the car performs excellently as it is - if I changed turbo I would lose out on my responsiveness, full boost at 3k rpm. It is mostly street driven, but I wouldn't be against a track day just for a bit of fun. My injectors are from an R35 GTR so I am fine on that end. I'll look into the actuator. I am not as concerned about heat as I don't flog it when it is a hot day, and I have an double cell koyo radiator to assist. Oil cooler would be too much to work into my stock-ish setup, and kind of sticks out I assume.

Thanks! To answer a few of your questions, I am not sure what type of FMIC it is, I've honestly never really bothered to check. I'll go have a look now and edit this. I am running on 98 pump fuel. I've considered going EWG but that means new exhaust manifold, new oil lines to the turbo, new turbo... list goes on. And I am using an ECB, Greddy Profec Spec B II. I'm not sure how to interpret its current settings in terms of duty cycle. EDIT: I have attached pictures of the FMIC. I could not see a single identifying mark on it, I looked all around on all sides. I do not expect anyone to know what it is from the photos. I am going with ebay branded!

If contention/Bottleneck based in the return flow FMIC is the cause, how come it is possible to reach 17 PSI in the first place?

Hello! I am researching the most optimal setup for my current turbo in my R34 GT-T. It is a Garret T2871R (part number 446179-5032). It is inside a stock hi flowed R34 turbo housing, stock exhaust manifold, 3" dump pipe, hi flow cat, Fujitsubo muffler. I also have a return flow FMIC. Currently my car is making 265rwkw at 17 PSI however I have boost dropoff to around 12-13 PSI by redline. I am looking to maintain this boost pressure at 17 PSI. Is there any way to do this? I am looking at buying 260 deg PonCams to help with boost response and exhaust flow (hopefully?) I would like to make around 280-290rwkw without changing the turbo. Any tips for optimising this setup? I have attached some dyno graphs. Cheers

Bruh I swear I have never seen you ever respond to anybody nicely on this forum. Stop being passive aggressive for every single one of your 13,000 posts, if you don't know the answer, don't reply!

Oh I was more thinking of the RB25 turbo cars! GTRs definitely not. The people who afford those are JobGivers lol!

Hi all, As per the title. I am wanting to see what people's experiences with Enthusiast insurance is like. Specifically, I would love to hear what they are like on claims which involve modifications without engineering documents. For example, my car has coilovers which I didn't put on, and thus I do not have the required documents to be roadworthy. I understand that Shannon's doesn't usually give a damn and pays out anyways, so what is Enthusiast like? Do they care about these sorts of things? They are half the price of Shannon's, and I compared the fine print and both policies state the vehicle must not be unroadworthy, which technically my car is due to the coilovers, tune, EBC... In summary, thoughts on Enthusiast, and are they a PITA when you claim? Cheers all

What I want to know is if this price hike is due to covid craziness or not... Jobkeeper is giving people lots of confidence of cash, I can see that running out when jobkeeper does.

Rb25det NEO Stock Cams New Spark Plugs (NGK BKR7E) APEXi Pod Filter Nistune R35 GTR Injectors Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump GReddy Profec B-Spec II EBC Return flow FMIC (unsure of brand, I didn't do this one) 3" Dump pipe + High flow catalytic converter 3" Fujitsubo Giken FGK Exhaust Koyorad Radiator Rebuilt turbo, Garret 2871R core in stock turbo housing. Boost tapered off towards the end with diminishing returns at 17 PSI only getting 265kw when 12-13 PSI was getting peak 256kw. Main difference was in the midrange. I just run it on low boost all the time as I can't really tell much of a difference.