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About Amin206

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  1. Well thanks to you guys I’m learning more about this expensive engine... Some people in this forum mentioned these spline gears need accurate oil pump adjustment after installation and without adjustment risk of breaking the gears are very high so as I’m looking for no trouble I think I’ll go with billet gears on factory collar. Anyone know if they need adjustment as well? Or just put the gears in there and bolt it back on? also still not sure n1 or standard pump? If the standard has bigger gears then why pay more for n1? Is it proved that n1 has better oil flow?
  2. If the Upgraded gears don’t have that much of benefit then I’ll go with new n1 pump without upgraded gears just for street use.
  3. So I checked the oil pump and mine is a standard one. This project is getting so expensive and I’m running out of budget... how about getting the standard oil pump again and use my upgraded gears cause if i get n1 pump I have to get new gears which is $600-700 so standard pump + upgraded gears vs n1 pump without upgraded gears?
  4. Does that after market setup help for street use? I saw lots of +600hp setup still using factory oil coolers how to tell if it’s n1pump or standard? I realized some of them also sell these new blocks as n1 block for very cheap price but they’re actually standard blocks
  5. Thank you all for helping me I ordered new block wiesco 86mm pistons manley h beam rods unfortunatley z1 racing is out of stock for n1 crank any other source? For oil cooler I can order the oem part from Japan but it’s $600 what about using aftermarket relocation kit? Any benefits compare to factory? Any suggestions for oil pump? N1 oil pump is available too but my used oil pump has upgraded gears maybe getting regular oil pump and replace the gears with my used upgraded gears?
  6. Yeah too much work and risk I will order new block And crank tomorrow hopefully can drive my car in a month or so... I only had a chance to drive it for 45min but that engine sound is playing in my head all day wish I had more money to get one in good running condition... they’re pretty expensive here in Canada. 2 questions do you guys recommend changing oil cooler and oil pump? My oil pump doesn’t look bad I guess also I’m not sure about using con rods they Look good but the fact that they’ve been into a seized engine makes me nervous also found a small scratch sign on 2 of them can’t feel much by nail though
  7. They only saw the head and cams not the block and crank yet I don’t know them so can’t really trust them for the block but they were recommended in a supra forum and they worked with rbs before. I asked them to do the valve cleaning as well do you guys recommend it or should I tell them to leave it the way it is ? I have 2 receipt that shows previous owners spent more than 25k only for labour at 2 shops and they didn’t do a good job at all So I think I won’t even bother taking the block to the machine shop... how about buying a used block ? One member from this forum have one for sale and he claimed there was no previous damage to the block only bored out to 87mm
  8. I took some pics from con rods pistons oil pump and cylinder bore I think I’ll need new pistons if I m gonna fix the block they are scratched. In the picture you can see the scratches and there are same signs on the opposite side of the piston as well probably oil issue? Oil pump screws were so tight and I damaged one of them while trying to open it any one know what size they are? also I think oil pump is upgraded con rods don’t have any sign of damage but there are sign of wear on rod bearings
  9. Thanks for your advice this is where I am right now I talked to a machine shop that was recommended and they will resurface the head and polish the cams and cam journals they said cams will only need polishing... they can fix the block and crank for $500 I also found used crank in good condition but n1 crank for $550usd is a great price if I fix the block and crank I will only need new pistons cause con rods are pretty good and all my expenses will be about 3k but if I buy a new block and crank it will be around 7-8k I think you would go with second plan which I think I would do the same cause I heard lots of bad stories but only 3k to fix this engine kinda makes me thinking or maybe wishing lol
  10. Well I can’t find one that I can really trust there are some good machineshops and mechanics in b.c and Alberta and most jdm imported cars come from there... I have some documents from the car that shows engine has been built 2 times before. First one shows the reason was only for increasing power and second time was for piston ring failure. the car was burning oil when I got the car I got it checked by a professional mechanic and they spotted oil on piston number 4 and they suspected number 1 too and if you look at the pictures again 1 piston doesn’t have any sign of carbon which is number 4. It could be valve seals or piston rings. as you mentioned oil was the problem... when I opened the drain plug there was not enough oil in there I would say maybe half but I’m surprised because I checked the oil when I got the car and the engine failure happened couple of days after that and I only drove it maybe 30-45min but it was smoking a lot maybe all that oil smoked away? Or dipstick doesn’t show right! I don’t have enough information about boring cam journals.if the cam journal needs boring how the new cam gonna fit in there? There was no bearing in there also my cams are kelford cam oil cooler isn’t reusable after this not even with enough cleaning? thats what I will do tomorrow... con rods still look good though Sure if it helps then why not. thanks
  11. Hi guys I’ve been reading this forum since I got my gtr 2 months ago and I got pretty good information also my car is imported from Australia to Canada so I decided to open a topic and share my story. When I got the car it was smoking white and a little blue previous owner Told me it might need a new piston rings and bearings. It was driving pretty good and no more white smoke after 10min drive long story short after couple of days driving, one day I got too excited and reved it up then I heard a knocking sound and maybe 2 minutes later engine seized while it was on 1000rpm and not in gear... so I transferred the car to where I live in Toronto and decided to build the engine by my self and it’s going to be my first time ... right now engine is out and I found why engine seized it was the main bearings... 2 of them and the first one at the end of crank was the cause of the engine to stop. interestingly all the con rods pistons block surface and head surface don’t show any sign of damage. right now I need a good plan to build my engine. I know when the main bearing is gone that means crank and block needs machining. There are visible scratches on the crank and pretty bad sign of wear on main girdle I didn’t remove the crank to see how the block looks like cause at this point I think I know the answer... the problem is here in Toronto we don’t have good machinist and after reading bad experiences some of you guys had with machineshop I might get new bottom end include block. Piston size is 87mm so I have to get new 86mm if I get new block. also i have problem finding new girdle as I think it’s not included with the new block let me know what do you think guys these are some pictures that I got from the situation the head condition is not bad but there’s small area that chipped off close to valves and somebody fixed it before .you can see the pictures at the end camshafts have some small scratches where they seat I included the pictures is it normal?
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