JarrettL

Alright, I've held off from posting this because it doesn't seem to make any sense and I know it's a topic that was beat to death and back two decades ago and then again after that. I have an AWD 23U block from an ENR34 that was NA from the factory. I'm rebuilding it with a turbo NEO head and ARP studs to sell it on so I can move on to a different engine build, and I'm stumped on the oil feed. Conventional logic, as I understand it, is that the NA blocks are tapped for the oil feed from the factory, but don't drilled through into the passage. This block seems to have a small hole withing the M12 threaded hole that goes fairly deep into the block material. So it would seem at a glance to be done in this application. Only, this engine has never been turbocharged, and I didn't remove a plug from this hole when tearing it down. Does the hole need to go even further than the depth I've shown here with the drill bit? Am I missing something?

I'm in Texas in the US. I'll be getting rid of most of the drivetrain on this car aside from front axles and the rear tail shaft.

It's the same oil pan/diff that comes on a GTR, so unless they already have an aftermarket LSD, I can't see why they'd want to tear it apart and have to re-shim the bearings. Noted on the value @30ed32. Seems like it's not worth much, but enough to not just toss in the bin. Thanks.

Are GTR guys ever looking for 4.363:1 front differentials? I have an ENR34 and I'm going to be selling the engine as soon as I rebuild it with a fresh DET NEO head, but I imagine a prospective buyer won't have a chassis application that can utilize the AWD setup. So I'm sure I'll be holding on to a 4.363 front diff. Is there a market for these, or are they generally viewed as being too short for typical GTR power levels?

Alright, so here's how you're going to put an OEM MFD cover (and potentially the aftermarket enclosures that utilize factory provisions) into your non-turbo dashboard. Some NA cars had the pop-up navi display and are treated just like GTT cars. But if your dash just has a blank spot, read on. Set the enclosure roughly into place on the dash see where the outside edges will fall on the vinyl surface of the dash. Make some marks on either side about 10mm in from that imaginary line. 10mm isn't gospel, and we'll be adjusting as we go, but it will give you a decent starting point. Cut full depth through the foam along these lines making sure the cuts in the back corners touch, and then remove all vinyl and padding within this boundary. As you can see on the different edges of the MFD cover, there is a vertical surface that will help to tuck the vinyl down so that your cut line cannot be seen. When we purposely cut 10mm in from the true outside edge in the last step, we did that so that we could take advantage of some extra material, and not have our cut exposed. To make this work well, we'll need to "undermine" the foam layer from underneath the vinyl surface around the perimeter. With the MFD cover in hand, repeatedly try to fit it and then adjust the cut line until you think you have it perfect. The brown tape in the back is covering two slots that the MFD cover will slide into. Stick a flathead screwdriver through those to expose the slots. Continue with the test-fitting process. The side I found that gives you the most grief is the side closest to the gauge cluster. You really need to make sure that your cuts have the foam undermined there as that's the side of the MFD cover with the tallest vertical edge. Lastly, one small relief area that I needed was at this point where there's a dimple in the vinyl. I took a 6mm drill bit and drilled a hole into the plastic surface where the plastic protrusion on the MFD cover wants to sit. Don't drill into the vinyl, but next to it. You'll see it when you're test-fitting. I thought my picture was much more self-explanatory when I was taking it, but looking at it now, that's certainly not the case! Obviously at this point you can cut through the entire plastic panel, or you can cut just what you'll need for whatever your application is. I suppose you could even just upholster it with some felt carpet and store your sunglasses in there! I hope this was helpful to someone! It made me nervous to attempt, but in all honesty I was finished in about 25-30 minutes.

Alright, so a year and half later I've finally done this to my car successfully! It really is nearly as straightforward as it sounds, but necessary to keep some considerations in mind when doing so. Pictures are in the process of uploading now, and I'll start writing out a step-by-step for others who want to attempt this. The purpose of this installation for myself was not to run the OEM MFD, but I do want to use the OEM cover to adapt a monitor of some sort inside. Back-up camera is the primary reason, but I'd like to think of more things to add, as well. The cluster is being replaced with an AIM display, so I'm not too concerned with any motorsport data, or critical systems monitoring, but suggestions are welcome! Instructions incoming!

Recently destroyed the front driver ABS wheel speed sensor on my ENR34 due to the iron knuckle rusting and seizing the sensor head. The other one on the passenger side has been soaking in penetrant for a few days, but I fully expect the same thing to occur. The wheel speed sensors seem to be specific to the AWD applications, and likewise the more readily available units from ER34s and S/Z chassis are not the same. An OEM unit seems to be available at $200 USD/ea, which is not ideal, but still fine. But if I'm in this boat in the future, those might not be available. Does anyone know of any wheel speed sensor that uses the same head as the R34 GTR that could be used? Not overly concerned with cable lengths as wiring will be redone to accommodate PMU wiring.

So I don't actually have a GTT, but instead a GT Four, but I figured future searchability would benefit from GTT in the title. Anyway, I have a 25GT Four that I'm doing a temporary engine setup in just to have some fun with the RB25. I've purchased a NEO turbo head which is at the machine shop, and I'll be buying a Freddy forward-facing plenum. So the OEM GTR intercooler seemed a good choice for the new piping layout. Many searches have explained that this will fit, which I had no doubts about, but what I'm really wanting to know about are the OEM lower brackets. The OEM upper brackets that attach to the aluminum GTR bumper support are given as that's the REO bar currently on the car. But the lower core support of the GTR and non-GTRs are different, and I don't know exactly where the OEM lower brackets bolt. I've tried looking for pictures and videos of intercooler replacements on GTRs and not found anything good that shows a good angle. Can anyone tell me if I can use the OEM lower intercooler brackets for an R34 GTR on my non GTR R34, or does it utilize provisions only found on the R34 GTR lower core support that aren't present in other models?

I'm on mobile now, so I can't see my profile. I thought I had it on there, but if I don't it's an ENR34. Looking to run 3 circular connectors. I was thinking someone may have utilized some space on the lower portion of the firewall that's not incredibly obvious from above.

Does anyone here have any picture examples of locations on the firewall they've run a circular bulkhead connector like the Corsair/Amphenol units commonly referred to as "milspec", or Deutsch AS connectors? After looking around a few times, it seems like all of the good space is right behind the ABS module, but with no room to connect and disconnect them as it's pretty tight? Anyone have any other ideas on a car that will retain AC and heat?

I was looking for a solution to this, as well. I have carbon Z-tune replica fenders which are even wider than the OEM GTR guards, so I don't even think the GTR liners are an option. Then again, I have no real experience.

I'm not after the whole cover. I purchased that new, OEM. Just the bezel that frames the screen. If that's what you meant, then I didn't see something like at 3D Racing Solutions. Just the whole cover. And I understand that most people wouldn't want to share a file. But the general attitude of the post was mostly one of seeking information.

To your initial statement, I've seen many bulk moldings with varying dimensions that come in a roll, so don't have any pre-formed corners like OEM. Given the substantial step, it would likely have to be a fairly unique cross-section, but perhaps not. To your second point, sounds good. I'll order an OEM one.

I drive an R34, but it is not a GTR, so it doesn't have an OEM MFD. I recently ordered an MFD housing because I want to do a custom project with a monitor for a reverse camera. The OEM bezel has a curved transition that will take a bit more work than just a flat ABS panel, so I was wondering if anyone had successfully 3D-printed something, or has a file they wouldn't mind sharing.

Have any of you with an R34 that have had your windshields out for paint or for replacement found a better molding than the OEM unit for the perimeter of the wind screen? The OEM molding leaves quite a substantial step up from the glass surface to the surrounding body. I was hoping there was something that provided a little more smooth transition. As I'm not a fluid dynamics engineer, and I have zero hours of experience with R34s in a wind tunnel, I'm just imagining there's room for improvement because of the ~6mm recess. And I'd feel a little silly if OEM was the only answer as I just placed a large order through Amayama and would have to have a SEPARATE shipping fee where it could have been free had I remembered to order it 6 days ago when the other order was placed.