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About JarrettL

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    Rank: RB20DE

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  1. How does the X-Trail pedal fit up compared to the 350Z? I've read that the Z just bolts right up, but the pad position falls slightly too close to the brake pedal unless modified.
  2. R34 aluminum front lower control arms are cheaply available on Yahoo Auctions, as well. No adjustability, but they're lightweight. The front knuckles on all GTRs are aluminum, where yours are iron like the Stagea and Laurel. They can be swapped for either BCNR33 or BNR34 knuckles, but I would imagine you'd need the uprights, as well. I can't confirm this yet(my iron knuckles and ENR34 uprights are still in the car, and my BNR34 knuckles are being used to mock up brake upgrades), but there are part number differences. The kingpins are the same, so maybe just a height difference in the shock mount. Again, I can't confirm, so don't quote me. Just different part numbers. Plan to swap the assembly on either side if you go this route. If you can't find ER34 (turbo only) or BNR34 rear aluminum knuckles, then plenty of older Skylines, as well as Z32s (and if you have an Australian Q45 equivalent) have aluminum rear knuckles, too, only with a smaller diameter rear lower shock mount. BNR34 rear shocks still seem to fit it fine, though. If you source these from a model with larger rear hubs/bearings, you can just swap yours onto them. For Black Friday deals, I bought Whiteline front and rear sway bars for 25% off, so maybe wait another 8-9 months for those if you can. Or OEM GTR sway bars are dirt cheap on Yahoo Auctions.
  3. As Duncan said, the front frame rails are different. The RWD Skylines have a similar front subframe and bracing as a Silvia, where the AWD Skylines/Stageas/Laurels have front frame rails that are notched to allow for CV axles to pass under them and move up and down. The front frame rails also have different mounting points to use a much larger front subframe that houses true wishbone lower control arms. This subframe attaches in 4 places instead of 2 and uses 8 bolts in total. The floor under the driver's left foot is relieved for the transfer case and front driveshaft, as well. So let's say you bought all of the suspension/drivetrain stuff: front subframe front lower control arms front knuckles and uprights front shocks front CV axles front sway bar oil pan w/ front differential to match the rear ratios front driveshaft transmission w/ transfer case rear driveshaft So now you have to control the transfer case. The ATTESA system in these uses a hydraulic pump located under the boot on the driver's side and sends variable amounts of hydraulic pressure to the transfer case to apply pressure to plates that send power to the front driveshaft. There is quite a bit of plumbing involved, and even more wiring as this integrates with ABS/TCS. All this to say that it's fairly unrealistic. If you buy all the parts, you still have to cut and modify the floor section where it meets the tunnel, and you have to notch and reinforce the front frame rails to accept the very different front subframe. It's been done before, but it's just not practical. Especially since these parts aren't just being tripped over in the corner at multiple importers like they used to be. Do what I did. I wanted an AWD R34, but couldn't afford a GTR. So I bought an ENR34.
  4. My Link is not the plug-and-play model, but is a G4+ Thunder. I'm doing an engine swap that necessitates an ECU that can control dual DBW throttle bodies and 4 camshaft position sensors, so it's either the one I already purchased and own, or it's MOTEC. At $2110 USD after taxes, this one just made more sense. I will still take your advice and consult with Link on their forum. I hoped to spread some questions out as Adam over there is an absolute genius and I fear I'll wear out my welcome before too long. With as many pinouts as their are on that ECU, chances are that one of the PWM-capable positions can replicate TPS signal as an output.
  5. I'll dig a bit tomorrow when I can go outside and peruse a bit inside the car, but I'm curious to know where the wiring is similar to a GTR because of the ATTESA commonality. So while my original concern of losing ABS may not be much of an issue, ATTESA might. I wish there were more ENR34s out there so some of this was documented.
  6. Oh, for sure. But I'd prefer it over nothing at all. For now, anyway. It's behavior during a track day with sticky tires and the 355/350mm Brembos will be the ultimate decider. Until then, I want to proceed with retaining as much functionality as I can, and only eliminate something whose duty is assumed by the Link, or one of the other devices I plan to run.
  7. Well, it seems you are correct. My SuperPros have an OD of just over 54mm. The bushing also measured 29mm wide, whereas the boss pictured above is 32mm, but I imagine there's not much to be gleaned from that. Maybe it's time to look for some R34 GTT/GTR rear knuckles. Cheers for the input so far!
  8. The car is an ENR34, so while not a GTR, does have the ATTESA system. In which case I may be working from the wrong wiring diagram, as the one I have has the wheel speed sensors going to the ABS/TCS control unit, and not ATTESA. Attached below. What all does ATTESA need to see from the engine? I missed the throttle position output, but it seems that's done through position 37 on the ECU connector. Easy enough in most instances, but I'll be going to a DBW throttle. Might be another question for the Link forum.
  9. After looking at the R34 wiring diagrams and seeing that ABS and traction control are combined within the same control unit, I'm wondering what results people who have gone to a standalone have had. The OEM wiring that was originally sending enginer information to the TCS will no longer be doing so, and I'm fine with no TCS as I'll develop a separate strategy within the Link G4+ ECU. Just don't want to lose ABS as a result. Adam with Link suggests that I won't, and he definitely knows his way around standalone ECUs, but wanted to reach out to those in a community specific to these cars. Thanks for any help.
  10. Sorry Dave, I didn't have alerts turned on! Glad you found the tapered seat. And yes, it's a standard part across multiple generations. Even the V36 Skyline (G35 sedan here in the US) I pulled a rear differential from used these at the rear knuckles. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, I suppose. And thanks for the pictures of the crush sleeve dimensions. I imagine the thickness of the aluminum surrounding that bushing on yours and mine are the same and that they each take the same bushings. I purchased some BNR34 SuperPros, but just haven't gotten around to installing them yet.
  11. I had the absurd idea of actually contacting the manufacturer through their "Contact Us" portion of their webpage and they insist that it's an M16x1.5 thread. I assume that once the o-ring on the bottom of the hex portion of the sensor its in that slight recess, combined with light torque would eliminate the play I'm feeling now. Anyway, just updating this in case anyone searches this topic at some point in the future.
  12. Disclaimer: This isn't a topic specifically related to forced induction, though the vehicle it applies to will be boosted, so... I recently purchased a Series II R34 GTR radiator from Koyorad to install in my ENR34 project. I'm building a motorsport-level (or near enough, anyway) harness for it, so the addition of a threaded boss on the radiator to use for a coolant pressure sensor was enticing. Especially since I was buying a radiator, anyway. I have a large M16x1.5 bolt that I've easily threaded into the hole, but it still has a little play at full engagement. Does anyone know what the true thread size of this hole is so that I can buy an adapter for a pressure sensor?
  13. Have you done this? Just seems like a big leap given that there's no going back. And the cutting isn't really what gets me, so much as the method of attachment once the foam is cut. I would seriously doubt it has the tabs in place, right?
  14. For starters, I'm not wanting to put an MFD in my dash to monitor my RB25DE. However, the cover is an intriguing concept for the housing to a front/rear camera display I'd like to install. The covers are still available from Amayama, it seems, and the power/video switching of my project is fairly straightforward. I have an ENR34, which came with the RB25DE. This means that the dash is solid, and does not have the removable insert the GT-R, GT-t, or GT-X have. Likewise, my dash would have to be cut in order to install the MFD cover. A search on this topic hasn't yielded any actual experience from those who seem to have done it, so would anyone here care to offer anything up? I can buy a GT-t dash here in the US, but with additional $500ish it would add to what's effectively a camera project, it's difficult to justify so far. Open to ideas.
  15. H4896-AB000 This is the part number I'm finding for the emblem "kit", which also comes with the two GT badges for the front fenders. It's listed twice on the accessories page, but no mention of color. https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/er34/3952-rb25det/misc/K90/KH4896/ Would definitely like one, myself. There's a black Z Tune bumper on Yahoo Japan auctions right now that has one. Maybe he'll remove it and sell separately for the right offer.
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