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JarrettL

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  1. I was looking for a solution to this, as well. I have carbon Z-tune replica fenders which are even wider than the OEM GTR guards, so I don't even think the GTR liners are an option. Then again, I have no real experience.
  2. I'm not after the whole cover. I purchased that new, OEM. Just the bezel that frames the screen. If that's what you meant, then I didn't see something like at 3D Racing Solutions. Just the whole cover. And I understand that most people wouldn't want to share a file. But the general attitude of the post was mostly one of seeking information.
  3. To your initial statement, I've seen many bulk moldings with varying dimensions that come in a roll, so don't have any pre-formed corners like OEM. Given the substantial step, it would likely have to be a fairly unique cross-section, but perhaps not. To your second point, sounds good. I'll order an OEM one.
  4. I drive an R34, but it is not a GTR, so it doesn't have an OEM MFD. I recently ordered an MFD housing because I want to do a custom project with a monitor for a reverse camera. The OEM bezel has a curved transition that will take a bit more work than just a flat ABS panel, so I was wondering if anyone had successfully 3D-printed something, or has a file they wouldn't mind sharing.
  5. Have any of you with an R34 that have had your windshields out for paint or for replacement found a better molding than the OEM unit for the perimeter of the wind screen? The OEM molding leaves quite a substantial step up from the glass surface to the surrounding body. I was hoping there was something that provided a little more smooth transition. As I'm not a fluid dynamics engineer, and I have zero hours of experience with R34s in a wind tunnel, I'm just imagining there's room for improvement because of the ~6mm recess. And I'd feel a little silly if OEM was the only answer as I just placed a large order through Amayama and would have to have a SEPARATE shipping fee where it could have been free had I remembered to order it 6 days ago when the other order was placed.
  6. How does the X-Trail pedal fit up compared to the 350Z? I've read that the Z just bolts right up, but the pad position falls slightly too close to the brake pedal unless modified.
  7. R34 aluminum front lower control arms are cheaply available on Yahoo Auctions, as well. No adjustability, but they're lightweight. The front knuckles on all GTRs are aluminum, where yours are iron like the Stagea and Laurel. They can be swapped for either BCNR33 or BNR34 knuckles, but I would imagine you'd need the uprights, as well. I can't confirm this yet(my iron knuckles and ENR34 uprights are still in the car, and my BNR34 knuckles are being used to mock up brake upgrades), but there are part number differences. The kingpins are the same, so maybe just a height difference in the shock mount. Again, I can't confirm, so don't quote me. Just different part numbers. Plan to swap the assembly on either side if you go this route. If you can't find ER34 (turbo only) or BNR34 rear aluminum knuckles, then plenty of older Skylines, as well as Z32s (and if you have an Australian Q45 equivalent) have aluminum rear knuckles, too, only with a smaller diameter rear lower shock mount. BNR34 rear shocks still seem to fit it fine, though. If you source these from a model with larger rear hubs/bearings, you can just swap yours onto them. For Black Friday deals, I bought Whiteline front and rear sway bars for 25% off, so maybe wait another 8-9 months for those if you can. Or OEM GTR sway bars are dirt cheap on Yahoo Auctions.
  8. As Duncan said, the front frame rails are different. The RWD Skylines have a similar front subframe and bracing as a Silvia, where the AWD Skylines/Stageas/Laurels have front frame rails that are notched to allow for CV axles to pass under them and move up and down. The front frame rails also have different mounting points to use a much larger front subframe that houses true wishbone lower control arms. This subframe attaches in 4 places instead of 2 and uses 8 bolts in total. The floor under the driver's left foot is relieved for the transfer case and front driveshaft, as well. So let's say you bought all of the suspension/drivetrain stuff: front subframe front lower control arms front knuckles and uprights front shocks front CV axles front sway bar oil pan w/ front differential to match the rear ratios front driveshaft transmission w/ transfer case rear driveshaft So now you have to control the transfer case. The ATTESA system in these uses a hydraulic pump located under the boot on the driver's side and sends variable amounts of hydraulic pressure to the transfer case to apply pressure to plates that send power to the front driveshaft. There is quite a bit of plumbing involved, and even more wiring as this integrates with ABS/TCS. All this to say that it's fairly unrealistic. If you buy all the parts, you still have to cut and modify the floor section where it meets the tunnel, and you have to notch and reinforce the front frame rails to accept the very different front subframe. It's been done before, but it's just not practical. Especially since these parts aren't just being tripped over in the corner at multiple importers like they used to be. Do what I did. I wanted an AWD R34, but couldn't afford a GTR. So I bought an ENR34.
  9. My Link is not the plug-and-play model, but is a G4+ Thunder. I'm doing an engine swap that necessitates an ECU that can control dual DBW throttle bodies and 4 camshaft position sensors, so it's either the one I already purchased and own, or it's MOTEC. At $2110 USD after taxes, this one just made more sense. I will still take your advice and consult with Link on their forum. I hoped to spread some questions out as Adam over there is an absolute genius and I fear I'll wear out my welcome before too long. With as many pinouts as their are on that ECU, chances are that one of the PWM-capable positions can replicate TPS signal as an output.
  10. I'll dig a bit tomorrow when I can go outside and peruse a bit inside the car, but I'm curious to know where the wiring is similar to a GTR because of the ATTESA commonality. So while my original concern of losing ABS may not be much of an issue, ATTESA might. I wish there were more ENR34s out there so some of this was documented.
  11. Oh, for sure. But I'd prefer it over nothing at all. For now, anyway. It's behavior during a track day with sticky tires and the 355/350mm Brembos will be the ultimate decider. Until then, I want to proceed with retaining as much functionality as I can, and only eliminate something whose duty is assumed by the Link, or one of the other devices I plan to run.
  12. Well, it seems you are correct. My SuperPros have an OD of just over 54mm. The bushing also measured 29mm wide, whereas the boss pictured above is 32mm, but I imagine there's not much to be gleaned from that. Maybe it's time to look for some R34 GTT/GTR rear knuckles. Cheers for the input so far!
  13. The car is an ENR34, so while not a GTR, does have the ATTESA system. In which case I may be working from the wrong wiring diagram, as the one I have has the wheel speed sensors going to the ABS/TCS control unit, and not ATTESA. Attached below. What all does ATTESA need to see from the engine? I missed the throttle position output, but it seems that's done through position 37 on the ECU connector. Easy enough in most instances, but I'll be going to a DBW throttle. Might be another question for the Link forum.
  14. After looking at the R34 wiring diagrams and seeing that ABS and traction control are combined within the same control unit, I'm wondering what results people who have gone to a standalone have had. The OEM wiring that was originally sending enginer information to the TCS will no longer be doing so, and I'm fine with no TCS as I'll develop a separate strategy within the Link G4+ ECU. Just don't want to lose ABS as a result. Adam with Link suggests that I won't, and he definitely knows his way around standalone ECUs, but wanted to reach out to those in a community specific to these cars. Thanks for any help.
  15. Sorry Dave, I didn't have alerts turned on! Glad you found the tapered seat. And yes, it's a standard part across multiple generations. Even the V36 Skyline (G35 sedan here in the US) I pulled a rear differential from used these at the rear knuckles. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, I suppose. And thanks for the pictures of the crush sleeve dimensions. I imagine the thickness of the aluminum surrounding that bushing on yours and mine are the same and that they each take the same bushings. I purchased some BNR34 SuperPros, but just haven't gotten around to installing them yet.
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