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Cheww
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Posts posted by Cheww
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On 17/08/2021 at 4:03 PM, Millerman said:
Really appreciate that man that's exactly what I wanted to hear 🤙🤙🤙
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On 17/08/2021 at 4:03 PM, Millerman said:
Yeah i saw that one, it looks like the same one but doesnt have the same last number line, is that one on EFI ends with a V and mine ends with an M.
U rekon it'll do the job anyway ?
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On 17/08/2021 at 11:38 AM, Millerman said:
Can you post a pic of the terminals?
Thanks for the reply man
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So ive taken out this EFI relay from behind the ecu, it's faulty I gotta replace it, and with my luck the numbers are damn near unreadable, Ive found Nissan relays that were matched the first two lines (25230 -c9965) but not the last line (**612M),
Electrics is not my forte, an I don't wana make any costly mistakes.
So if anyone knows the numbers I'm looking for, where to buy it, or knows that any green relay with similar numbers is kicks I'd be extremely grateful If could share sum knowledge
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Yea I kinda thought that's what it was
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Can some one tell me what these things are/what they do ? Would hugely appreciate🤙
That first thing has a vacuum line connected to the fuel regulator
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15 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:
^^^ or coil, bad grounds, alternator output voltage.
Its an electrical issue, resistance increases with heat. Get a multimeter and start testing.
Is this on a factory ecu?
yeah factory ecu. i dont have a ground on my extractors anymore surely it cant be that, so what do you recommend? checking for voltage on the ground wires? not too familiar with electrical side of things but down to do my homework on it
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1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:
That's definitely far fetched, and no way are you on the right track. It is physically impossible for that to happen.
Have you replaced the coolant temp sensor? Or at least checked it?
yeah i replaced that too, i think it actually does misfire a lot less or not at all when unplugged. ive forgot, tested that one a while ago
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ight so ive been in a pickle for while but i think im closer to pin pointing it, but i need help.
so a while back i started getting this warm engine misfiring, where once the engine reached running temp it would like cough, puff and basically shit the bed with shit response until it was undrivable, however the symptoms were far less noticeable when given a decent amount of open throttle and high revs funny enuff. (and when it was cold)
- since it shat the bed ive taken out the plugs twice, first time it smelt like fuel then the second time a month after the ends where white and crispy (got pics) probably worth noting the car wasn't seeing a whole lot of action the 2nd time the plugs were removed.
- ive found fuel in the intake manifold gasket when i took it off, and worth noting the inside of the plenum/mainifold was filthy AS HELL with a layer of oil/grease/37year old filth lining it.
- when i took off the rocker cover the shit is filthy as hell, good layer of grime on every thing, but the grim gets blacker the closer it gets to cylinder 6th, apart from needing an oil flush (dont think the last owner did one, after resurrecting it from a 10year sleep) it looks all good ish. i remember seeing a black spec on a cam lobe but it looked like it was ment to be there, but ive never seen a warn down cam so idk really.
ran a compression test and it pulled through great, all cylinder with 5% difference between each of each other
things ive replaced/checked:
- replaced AFM, ECU, leads, plugs and refurbished the distributor/CAS/ignition coil
- had the Throttle position sensor checked, injectors cleaned
did a fuel pressure test with my hand on the fuel lines and that seemed fine, cant rule this one out for certain tho
- gonna change the some of the connection to the dizzy, afm, and maybe injectors, but i dont think its electrical due to the nature of it only happing when the engines warm.
ight so ive got a little hypothesis based on some research ive been doing
so in regard to this being based around the fact it misfires when its warm im thinking about blaming it on poor valve timing. Because from what i understand with an engine that require lash adjustment (rb30 doesnt i know) that a lower lash increases valve lift and duration, good for high end power at the sacrifice of low end torque. I also understand that the lash/gap is indented to compensate for metal expansion under heat. I know im going out on a limb but IF the hydraulic lifters 'seized up' and stared to act as a solid lifter with zero lash the symptoms would most prominent when warm, and with zero lash the open valve duration may be pushed to an extreme (opening to early and closing too late) MAYBE IF the intake valves closed late enuff they might still be partly open at the beginning of the compression stroke forcing puffs of air up the intake, bringing filth, oil and drying the spark plugs up.
( i know some of this seems far fetched(especially the second half), but ive replaced too many things), guess im just asking if theres someone with a bigger brain to correct me or give me some direction with this
cheers boys
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21 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
There should be no connection between what you have done and the problem that you have. So, either you have a bad coincidence, or you have somehow f**ked something else (unexpected) while playing with the fuel rail. Sadly, we'd only be guessing as to what that accident might have been.
If the pump is not running, then the thing you should be doing is fault finding the pump, starting with the power and earth, to see why.
sorry to waste your time man..... i just forgot the 3 earths at the back
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ight so my cars been f**kin me around bad lately, like it starts misfiring once its warm and even more so on low revs, however its way better on high revs (if i drive like an arse hole)
Anyhow
in an attempt to fix this shit ive cleaned up my injectors and fuel rail (so theres 0 fuel in the pipes past the filter), so I plugged everything up and when i turn the key i dont hear the fuel pump prime, i crank it a fair few times pumping the pedal and I get nothing.
im thinking about unplugging the return fuel line from the fuel rail to kinda bleed the the system of air, would that work???
.....or does this sound like a fuel pump issue as its not even priming
PS ive already changed dizzy, AFM, ecu, checked TPS, new sparks, 95% sure the last owner changed leads, just in case your wondering if its that.
also sorry for my poor English
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28 minutes ago, Duncan said:
And on the bright side, at least it didn't crack the windscreen - it often does when it flies up
Oh I knowwww feeling very blessed, it had enough force to knock off the review mirror off some how tho.
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6 minutes ago, SteveL said:
Truck ratchet tie-down across the bonnet wheel-well to wheel-well....with appropriate paint protection, of course 😀
Good luck with it.
I was gonna go with a zip tie approach (instead of a the bolt) but you can't be too safe can you.
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44 minutes ago, SteveL said:
It's been a long, long time since I owned an R31, but I don't think it's meant to be like that. Supposed to be round and not elongated as if it's been worn from the bonnet flapping around. It should look more like the hinge in the attached image (not from a skyline but a Silivia, but you get the idea). You can see the pivot point has a shouldered 'rivet' and not a bolt. Thinking about it more a bolt may not work because of clearance issues when the bonnet is closed. You might be better to ask on the R31 forums:
https://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?action=forum
Yeah shit this does kinda help to see that cheers for that, yeeeee I see what your talking about not having clearance with a bolt, but I do not have a clue how I would install a 12mm rivet hmmm, starting to sound like a might need a shit tone of zip ties to get it home
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30 minutes ago, Duncan said:
Surely it is 12mm circle because it is a pivot point....whatever happened was nasty (didn't close latch)?
Yea sure did, 500m from the mechanic as well 😑😑. Is their a reason you believe 12mm is the one or just instinct.
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11 minutes ago, SteveL said:
That's part of the bonnet hinge, I think (??). If so, that hole is the hinge pivot point and there's no bolt but more like a big rivet. A bolt might be used, but only guessing at the diameter.....10/12mm. Where's the other 'half', presumably on the car or bonnet ??
Yeah it's part of it (the part attached to the bonnet not the car).. wish I was more familiar with the hinge and surrounding but it's been in the mechanic for a month. The hole (which is oval) is ruffly 12mm X 16mm. But I'm not sure if it's supposed to be like that, or if it's supposed to be circle
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1 hour ago, Duncan said:
I'm pretty good, but it's hard to guess what car that is off from the pics....
hahha sheeet yea sorry its an R31 mate
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Yeah ight sorry for the horribly described title but I'm looking for the actual size of this hole (mainly the bolt that goes threw it) on one of the braces on the bonnet, cas once i weld it, itll be a bitch to fix it.
Would HELLA appreciate it if someone could gemmi a hand as I'm pricking up the car Tomo, and need the new brace to fit on it so I can drive it home
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On 21/03/2021 at 10:19 PM, SimsR31 said:
I sure do
only need the tail light middle trim at the moment, do you have a number or messenger at all
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pre delicious,
On 17/03/2021 at 12:36 PM, PLYNX said:Ummmm . . . . . .
what's that even called i couldn't on their site
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3 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
especially if they're the original parts, they're due for refresh
yeah i think the water pump has been renewed when the last owner had it, but the other two could prolly do, ill google to see how much works involved and what not cas im kinda leaving in less than 2 weeks. you know of any good after market fuel pumps? or should i stick to oem
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17 hours ago, tridentt150v said:
Also check your battery health and tyre pressure, and I'd take a spare fan belt.
I'd also google the tilt tray dudes for places like Albury, Dubbo, Moree, Goonawindi, etc just in case. Easier to do it now than trying to do it on the side of the road with no service or a swarm of flys/mozzies etc.
ye ye might just do that man, cheers
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21 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
Check all the small coolant hoses around the inlet manifold, heater hoses, etc, and the big rad hoses to see if any are likely to to explode and leave you stranded with a cooked engine. Take along a selection of heater hose and small bore hose and some clamps if you're even more paranoid, plus coolant, etc.
might just cas some of my hoses are a bit crusty
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On 16/03/2021 at 9:18 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
put in a new alternator, water pump and fuel pump.
aha yeah ill think about it
r31 after market harmonic balancer add ons??
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
ayo
so ive bought this Romac harmonic balancer and it only supports the alternator and power steering, not the ac compressor. but ive talked to the company who sold it to me and the balancer does have holes so that another pulley may be bolted on.
Has anyone got a clue to who/where i could buy a pulley?
in the work shop manual is says the power steering pulley bolts to the balancer but both of my cars (R31s) have the Psteering pulley made into it, is that the same with everyone elses ?
would really appreciate a hand, not keen on losing my ac