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  1. I have strong doubt it's the slave too- but for $100 worth a shot. Otherwise tow car then box out. Beginning to hate this car more than I love it haha. 6 weeks on road, 10+ Months off it since ownership. Expensive too... As for the mangled keyway, bought a used crank, did new ACL race series bearings, oil pump collar, custom single keyway mod, and a ross balancer. Nissan balancers are not made properly and shred the keyways, regardless of bolt torque. It's a design/tolerance fault and I confirmed it by using a micrometer, as well as several OEM balancers- new and used. They never fit properly snug, and rely on bolt tension instead of interference fit! I can't even begin to imagine how many RB series engines are currently driving around with shredded crank snouts as a result- probably a tonne.
  2. I believed it may be the slave- it does move but apparently it must move almost the whole way, which it didn't seem to. It was close- but it could be 1-2mm off and that might be all it takes. If it was the clutch pivot, or even fork for that matter, wouldn't it lose all feeling immediately, as it requires those parts to even move the pedal? Not after opening the slave bleeder? It felt totally normal and made no sounds until I opened the slave cylinder valve. I suppose this doesn't rule out throw out bearing- I will get a camera in there today and update. Cheers.
  3. I sadly think this is the case too- based on how sudden it is. I've decided to buy a new OEM slave cylinder just in case but that all appeared to work. The second I opened the breather however it just never bled properly, so maybe a seal in it has gone suddenly. Unlikely but trying before box is out. Any clue if I can check clutch pivot with a boreascope camera?
  4. Thanks for the advice- hsve read about this issue but mine is good, works as it should.
  5. I will eventually but for now I need to sort this issue first
  6. Hello. Having some 'fun' with this new setup on my 1995 S1.5 R33 GTST: I have a brand new Exedy (extra extra heavy duty) 500kw single plate ceramic clutch kit, new aftermarket throw out bearing + holder, new Exedy spigot with all parts having only 750-1000km on them. Today while driving I gave it a fairly hard (5000rpm or so) shift from first to second gear and now I can't disengage the clutch. Limped it home in second so the clutch is engaged, but can't get it to move gears whatsoever. Goes through all gears when engine is off. It made no noise when the clutch stopped working- nothing went bang or made any odd sounds and drove it home fine in second gear. I checked the pedal adjustment and it's as high as it'll go (most movement of pushrod on slave) and had someone push the pedal down while watching. The slave pushrod moved about 1.5 inches which is apparently the correct amount of movement. Decided to try and bleed the clutch to rule that out, and now all of a sudden there is no pressure on the pedal- it just falls to the floor and stays there. Tried bleeding master and didn't do anything. A fair bit of air comes out of the slave when bleeding, but continues and gets no better- with no change in pedal. What on earth is going on? The slave worked fine before opening the bleed valve, now the pushrod won't move, and still obviously can't disengage the clutch as I have a pedal that flops to the floor. Tried compressing and bleeding master 30 times or so with no change. Anyone got any idea what is causing this? Why did the slave suddenly stop, or was this the issue all along? Cheers everyone! Sorry for the long one.
  7. Hello- I have just got my RB single keyway from Platinum Racing Products that I planned to pop into my crank, however it appears that the key is not a super tight/interference fit in the balancer (Brand new never ran OEM). At $45 a pop i'd rather make sure it's perfect before running it. It is fairly close, but it 100% has some extremely minor movement. This movement at 8k RPM is probably much less than ideal as this is where it's a massive issue, and is capable of destroying cranks (did this on my old one- the reason for rebuilding) Does anyone run a single keyway, and has any experience with them? Thanks!
  8. That's what they're going for now, especially tidy ones- what did you pay for it when you got it? Bet it was no where even close to $30k!
  9. Hello- Just got a query regarding the fitment of an RB25 balancer/crank pulley on the crankshaft. I have tried two seperate engines with a brand new balancer on them, and 2 seperate used balancers, and both engines with all 3 balancers are fairly easy to get on by hand, and can spin fully around just by hand. It isn't loose but not what i'd consider tight/interference fit. Is the interference fit on the face of the crank when the bolt it tightened, or the the sides of the crank? I don't know why this is not rock solid... Are both crankshafts out of round, or is this how they're meant to be? I am struggling to believe that two seperate good condition engines that both ran perfectly before taking balancer off (timing belt) - both don't fit very tight with a brand new genuine OEM balancer. It just seems odd. Cheers.
  10. Probably a substantially better Power:weight though
  11. Certainly not a race car (yet, until it decides to fully blow itself) just a daily, around 450whp at the minute. Cheers.
  12. Thanks mate- it's only going to be at 450whp at most, and mainly a daily driver- maybe cop a limiter here and there but nothing insane. Thanks for the reply.
  13. G'day guys- Might be a stupid question but i've never built an inline 6 cylinder engine, and I am looking at replacing the crankshaft only in my RB25DET. I have tracked down a good condition crank which I would be getting the basic machine work cleanup (polished, crack tested, etc) and then installing myself- but since i'll be reusing the pistons, rods and most other parts besides bearings obviously- is there any balancing that needs to take place, i.e piston and rod weight checking etc. Cheers all!
  14. That honestly makes me so depressed. Love the GTI-R. As for those dirt cheap skyline, I always planned on a GTST anyway as I was too late to miss the GTR hike, but that never bothered me. An AU$ 7-8k R33/R32 GTST was always the goal, then drop in a forged 25 or ideally 25/30 or 26/30 and have it forged, making insane power for less than or around $25-30k. Would be a monster street car. And wouldn't break the bank. Now i'm $20k+ deep in the hole for just a f**king old car. Honestly I always wanted one since I was 16 and since I studied I couldn't buy it until I was 19. No longer studying and covid hit the car market as soon as I had money. I might sell the car. It's too expensive now since I missed the cheap ones last year LOL. It pains me but I don't know what to do with these things 😂
  15. I know this thread is old, but it's insane how these cars shot up in literally 1 year. You were all right! I just paid almost $20,000 for an R33 GTST as it was my 'realistic' dream car from many years ago. I'm a teenager- and I worked my ass off to buy one. I never wanted to pay anywhere near this but I bit the bullet and unfortunately it's already off the road for fixes! Reading this post- everything came true. I should have found this last year when I skipped over several very good 7-8k Skylines, and bought a cheaper daily! I miss the days when they were a dime a dozen, I passed up on so many of them it's crazy- just to lose out on big $$$ now. HANG ON TO THOSE GTST SKYLINES!
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