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About CLEM0

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    Rank: RB20DET

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  1. Probably a substantially better Power:weight though
  2. Certainly not a race car (yet, until it decides to fully blow itself) just a daily, around 450whp at the minute. Cheers.
  3. Thanks mate- it's only going to be at 450whp at most, and mainly a daily driver- maybe cop a limiter here and there but nothing insane. Thanks for the reply.
  4. G'day guys- Might be a stupid question but i've never built an inline 6 cylinder engine, and I am looking at replacing the crankshaft only in my RB25DET. I have tracked down a good condition crank which I would be getting the basic machine work cleanup (polished, crack tested, etc) and then installing myself- but since i'll be reusing the pistons, rods and most other parts besides bearings obviously- is there any balancing that needs to take place, i.e piston and rod weight checking etc. Cheers all!
  5. That honestly makes me so depressed. Love the GTI-R. As for those dirt cheap skyline, I always planned on a GTST anyway as I was too late to miss the GTR hike, but that never bothered me. An AU$ 7-8k R33/R32 GTST was always the goal, then drop in a forged 25 or ideally 25/30 or 26/30 and have it forged, making insane power for less than or around $25-30k. Would be a monster street car. And wouldn't break the bank. Now i'm $20k+ deep in the hole for just a f**king old car. Honestly I always wanted one since I was 16 and since I studied I couldn't buy it until I was 19. No longer studying and covid hit the car market as soon as I had money. I might sell the car. It's too expensive now since I missed the cheap ones last year LOL. It pains me but I don't know what to do with these things 😂
  6. I know this thread is old, but it's insane how these cars shot up in literally 1 year. You were all right! I just paid almost $20,000 for an R33 GTST as it was my 'realistic' dream car from many years ago. I'm a teenager- and I worked my ass off to buy one. I never wanted to pay anywhere near this but I bit the bullet and unfortunately it's already off the road for fixes! Reading this post- everything came true. I should have found this last year when I skipped over several very good 7-8k Skylines, and bought a cheaper daily! I miss the days when they were a dime a dozen, I passed up on so many of them it's crazy- just to lose out on big $$$ now. HANG ON TO THOSE GTST SKYLINES!
  7. I was googling this as you replied. The manual is stupidly low, I wonder if it's a translation/conversion error, as it is really low. Will crank it up a bit on the stock bolt, once I know the torque specs.
  8. Yikes. That doesn't sound fun. I've decided- Going to torque the factory one to factory specs first. I don't want to be going above and beyond if factory is fine to hold it all. #1 is making sure the bloody key fits!
  9. I've got it all off besides bumper but there is room- but I only have a MIG welder right now, my TIG died. Hopefully MIG works (it should), I have a die grinder with a bunch of bits to sort the shaping. It's going to suck doing this but realistically a good fill of MIG on the broken side, filing it well, fitting the key firmly and loctite hopefully works. New balancer and bolt too. Gotta figure out locking the flywheel! People do loctite only on MX5s all the time- on the crank pulley itself! If the bolt is tight- it SHOULD be fine. Hoping it goes well cheers for advice.
  10. Thank you mate. I'll grab an ARP bolt. Hopefully i'm right assuming the bolt keeps the balancer on- not the key! If that's the case, i'll just crank it tight and hope for the best. Any good methods for flywheel locking with engine in car?
  11. Thanks for the advice all. I'm aware any way I fix this it's going to be bunky. As long as it lasts me until something else in the engine goes, then i'll be happy. I just paid nearly $20k for the car but I always planned to rebuild anyway, but not within a month of owning it!- I've had old cars before, they don't last forever. I'm going to MIG weld the woodruff slot, file it down and get it as close as possible to a tight fit with the key. I'll put some loctite 660 (made for keyways) to fill any air gaps, grab a new balancer and put some antiseize on the crank bolt, and torque to 200-250nm. Anyone know a good method of locking the crank? If anyone has any better ideas, i'd love to know. I'm pretty certain after some reading that the crank bolt is the reason the balancer stays tight- NOT the actual key. The key is simply for alignment purposes I don't care about the timing marks, just want to make sure everything stays put!
  12. That's what i'm thinking of doing. Going to patch up the keyway with weld bead, die grinder it smooth until the key fits well- loctite 660 as a means of removing any air gaps that can become dangerous under vibration, new balancer, new bolt, and torque the bolt to double factory specifications, probably with an ARP bolt. The way I see it, is I now need a new crank when I decide to rebuild, so I might as well give this a good shot. I only just bought the car too! Man I wish these things were 5-10k still, shame I paid almost double, otherwise i'd have the engine out going forged right now if it was 10k! Wouldn't even fret the crank damage- i'd buy a new one haha! I still can't figure out if the woodruff key actually does anything, or if the crank bolt high torque grips the balancer. The woodruff key is mild steel so surely it can't take any rotational force- especially 400+ whp at 7k+ RPM, it must be the crank bolt. I'm not sure
  13. Well I guess that throws the theory that the key doesn't have pressure on it- what repair method did you use? And did you tighten the bolt to correct spec?
  14. Thanks for the reply mate- I figured that'd be the case- will try it with crank in car. I don't think oil pump is going to be an issue as the balancer and the crank pulley are actually on seperate woodruff keys. The crank pulley is solid and doesn't seem to have any issues with the woodruff key, so I'm not sure if that'd affect the oil drive gear in any way. I have no oil pressure issues. I am still curious if they key serves any purpose other than alignment- it doesn't seem like it could support any rotational force (aka why it died in the first place)
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