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OST Micah

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OST Micah last won the day on July 21

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  1. A while back I purchased a lot of aluminum exhaust parts to one day put a full time full exhaust on the car. The main reason was safety. I had seen a couple open header cars at the track put oil under the tires from engine damage and wreck. Now that I'm going to start pushing this motor harder I would rather eat the power loss for the sake of safety. The reason for choosing aluminum was for the weight and the low cost compared to stainless. The Promod guys use aluminum and I've done an aluminum downpipe on another car before and it worked well. The downpipe material is all schedule 11 and the exhaust portion will be schedule 14. The schedule 14 will start where the factory cat normally sits. This is to make all significant bends from schedule 11. The downpipe is 5" and tapers to 4" for the exhaust. A couple things I wanted to change from my last design: wideband sensor must be accessible from the engine bay for quick changes on the roadside or at the track. Downpipe needs to come out for turbo removal so this must also be able to be done from the engine bay with no jacks/lift. I want to be able to remove the turbo quickly at any location should the need arise. This is the reason for the v-band partway down the downpipe. The exhaust will be mounted to the mounting ear on the transmission and hopefully that will hold it well enough to R&R the upper downpipe section without getting under the car. Downpipe all welded. I'm not a pro at welding but certainly seem to be improving. In the car From underneath
  2. Finally got a chance to install the new clutch. Took some pictures next to the OS Giken TS3B. The DCS 9" dwarfs the OSG. Found the TOB clearance to be within spec with the recommended 18mm sleeve. Measured finger height on the cover for future reference. Not sure when I'll be able to go to the track next but I'll be using the time to break in the clutch as much as possible. All laid out on the table OSG disk on top of a DCS disk Thickness compare Holes in the floater and in the pressure plate In the car! Love the OS Giken alignment tool.
  3. I also got my original transmission degreased and pressure washed. Going to try to get the case blasted and then assemble with my Speedtek gearset in case I break the spare trans that's in the car now.
  4. Talked with Drew from Direct Clutch Service and he was able to make me a custom clutch. 9" twin, billet cover, heavy flywheel, and sintered iron friction material. This material is what the guys here use when putting a lot of heat into the clutch. Excited to install and test. It's bully looking! Very heavy, very thick floaters and disks. Should handle the heat well.
  5. What a bugger this all was. Ended up being a bad oil pressure sensor. The sensor read just fine and accurately but was somehow grounding out the 5v reference after 7200rpm. This caused the MAP signal issue at that RPM. Lots of testing, troubleshooting, and laying awake at night wondering what was going on.
  6. So these past couple weeks have been a bit of a hair puller. At the track the car was acting odd on the two-step and would take forever to build boost. Never had this issue before. I had a look over all the piping and turbo when the trans was out and all seemed well. Once back on the street the car would drop 2-3lbs of boost around 6800rpm when rolling into second gear. The same would happen in 3rd but at a higher boost level. After this boost drop the boost level would jump around and would not be a smooth incline like it had been or should be. I took the wastegate, BOVs, and charge pipe apart as well as made a lot of tuning changes to troubleshoot. Nothing made a difference. Finally I ran a line from a boost source into the cabin to the pressure sensor on the Elite. Problem solved! So apparently a MAP sensor can partially go bad and slowly get worse over time as this did. Now I know. New sensor ordered. When it goes in I'll test the wiring but in my experience wiring doesn't fail at the same time every time so I'm pretty confident it's the sensor. Here is what the two signals looks like; on-board sensor vs. intake mounted sensor. The generic sensor is the intake sensor and the Manifold Pressure is the on-board sensor.
  7. Alright, so the day after the track I unloaded the car and bump started it down the driveway. Kicked the clutch a couple times on the way down to free it up. I then drove around using the clutch for a few miles. This gave me the clutch back but it was still slightly difficult to get into gear while sitting. Pulled the trans the following week after work and to my surprise the input slid right out of the clutch plates. Okay, so not locked on the input shaft. Pulled the clutch apart and right away saw gold friction material bonded to the floaters, pressure plate, and flywheel. This raised material must have been keeping the clutch from disengaging. Cleaned all the material off, scuffed down all surfaces, and reinstalled. Drove the car around for a week and the clutch is back to normal.
  8. What a thread! Great read over he past couple days. Hope this gets together soon. I have a Speedtech gearset myself (no plate) on standby waiting for time to assemble. Thanks for the info on the quality of the kit.
  9. The transmission crossmember bushings were completely shot. Rather than buy a new set or aftermarket set I tried my hand at making some. Drew these up and printed them out. 100% infill so a solid piece. We'll see what happens! Next item on the list was a clutch pedal position sensor. This was something I've wanted to do for a while for a couple reasons. The first was to use pedal position to activate the hydraulic slipper on launch. Without it I had to find the slip point at the line and then put the car on the 2-step. With the position sensor I planned to keep the pedal on the floor and dump the clutch at launch. The slipper would activate at a set pedal position. Much less to do at the line and makes the car easier to drive and more consistent. The other reason was to use it to active a flat shift cut. I had a flat shift cut before but found that I slightly rode the clutch pedal just before a gear change which would activate the cut. With the position sensor I could activate the cut once the clutch was pushed to a certain point. This is what I came up with. It's a bolt on bracket to keep fab work under the dash to a minimum and uses a brake pedal position sensor from our 2015 Challenger parts car. The last item on the list was larger injectors. I saved this for last in case I couldn't get everything done before our race day I could still take the car and dial in the launch and run the car. The ID1050s were at 98% in Maryland at around 37psi of boost on 60psi base fuel pressure. Got a really good deal on a set of refreshed by ID ID2000s. While I was swapping the injector connectors I decided to redo the upper section of the engine harness. Pulled it all apart, depinned the connectors, and used heat shrink instead of the electrical tape I had on there and made proper breakouts for each injector. Much cleaner and far more durable. I made the coolant pressure sensor wiring too short but that will be addressed soon. I need to stop rushing when working late after work. I'm still teaching myself wiring but I'm happy with how it turned out. The next one will be better. Got the car on the dyno and tweaked the tune for the new injectors. I dropped the base fuel pressure down to 30lbs to aid in getting the car to idle at 800rpm and at stoich on pump gas/race fuel. It may or may not have been needed but the car does idle how I want. Went to the track on Friday. Lots to play with and adjust in terms of launch and shifts. However I spent most of the day fighting fuel slosh which has not been a real issue until now. With the drag coilovers set up for weight transfer the angle of the car changed so much. I intended for that but didn't think about fuel slosh. Even with over twice the amount of fuel I normally run it was still going into engine protection. Made three partial passes that all got aborted. 60' was looking promising though. Car launches very differently and I'm excited to tweak the power application in the tune to get it sorted. The pedal position sensor worked flawlessly for the launch as well! Big help there. Still needs some playing with in the tune for the flat shift though. Takes too long to come out of flat shift. I think I'll switch to a time-based cut activated by an initial pedal position rather than on and off by pedal position. Then after letting the car sit in the pits to cool I got back in for another hit. Unfortunately the clutch would not disengage and I could not get into any gear with the car running. In gear and clutch pressed I could turn the motor over with the starter but not fast enough to fire up. I think the disks may have locked up on the input shaft when everything cooled down because the car shifted fine down the track and down the return road so I don't believe the floaters or friction material is damaged. Clutch pedal feels great and the slave moves the fork. Got to get it apart and have a look. First one for me!
  10. Got the car on a set of scales we borrowed. Tried to get the corner balance sorted but there's something screwy going on with the front right corner that I didn't have time to figure out. But the car weighs 3428lb with me in it an 1/4 tank of fuel. No lightweight! Then got the Smart Strings out to dial in the alignment. Really happy I could get 0 degrees camber in the rear. Anxious to see the improvements this season.
  11. Maybe. The connections in the tank are sealed as are the connections outside the tank so even if that were the case the fuel would have a hard time getting into the wire and out of the wire. Having wires pass through the fuel hat is common even in high end aftermarket systems that we use all the time. I have yet to smell fuel vapors on those systems. Got back to work on the suspension. One of the HICAS ball joints was toast and the other only had a rotted boot but I decided to replace them both. Got the bad one out first to test fit the new one. However the new one was about 25 thou too small to press in. After spending a few hours on the phone with multiple sources all telling me I had the right part number I got ahold of a Nissan dealer that had two potential part numbers in stock. They pulled both and measured for me. Turns out I had ordered the right part number and the right number was on the bag but the part in the bag was the wrong number and for a GTST! What a royal pain in the butt. Ball joint from the car Ball joint I recieved Once that was all sorted and new joints were ordered and installed I compressed the suspension and reduced (increased?) the negative camber as much as I could until the tire just kissed the quarter lip. I don't want to roll the quarters on this car so this is as far as I can go. Once that was sorted I moved to adjusting the tension/traction/trailing arm to reduce toe change under compression. After some playing I ended up with just 1mm of toe change from ride height to 3" of compression. With the car on the ground I have much closer to 0 camber than I thought I would. Really happy about this. I'll get the car strung up next week and we'll see where we end up.
  12. Thanks a bunch, buddy! Got a bit of time spread out over a few days during lunch to tinker with this. One of the items on the to do list was to remedy the HOKEY fuel hat hose connections. A few years ago I wanted to keep the fuel hat unmodified but after fussing with these hose clamps too much I gave up. Just not safe to be clamping AN lines. Don't laugh... it's embarrassing. Cut the plastic 90s off and drilled out the steel tubes. Them modified a drill bit to "mill" down the plastic under the hat on the drill press. Fitted a pair of bulkhead -6 90s and made up a proper return hardline in the tank. Much better and much safer! I'll be dropping this side of the tank down an 1/8" or so to keep the lines off the body.
  13. Well I'm an idiot. I did break the 3/4 fork. Just looking at it wrong. Here's a look at how absolutely trashed this transmission is. These are the third and fourth syncros, rings, and gears. I can't believe it shifted at all. This is likely why the fork broke. The syncros couldn't line up but it was being forced to anyway again and again.
  14. On the last pass made at MIR I shifted into third and, poof, there was no third. I figured I finally wiped the teeth off the gear like everyone else. Wasn't really disappointed as it was bound to happen eventually even with all the safeties in place. That's why I had the spare trans. Today I finally got the transmission apart to see what it looked like and what what salvagable. I confirmed that putting the shifter in 3rd and spinning the input shaft by hand that all gears worked except 3rd. However upon teardown I didn't find what I was expecting. The gearset is actually in great condition! The syncros are completely flogged but there is otherwise no damage to the gearset. The issue was actually a destroyed 1/2 shift fork. I don't totally understand how this caused a neutral state when in third gear so maybe someone with more transmission knowledge can chime in. I can slide the syncro ring to engage third by hand and it turns the output shaft. Pretty happy this appears to be the only damage as it leaves me with two good gearsets. Didn't get to installing the motor today. Hopefully this weekend or early next week.
  15. Got a couple days here and there between scheduled builds at the shop to start some 2021 prep. Started with the suspension. The HKS Hyper D coilovers are holding me back. The car squats and hooks but then springs right back up and wheelspins. I need something double adjustable. Measured everything and got a custom set of Viking Crusader double adjustable shocks for the front and rear. Made my own top mounts and lower mounts. For the front lower mount I had to slice a 1/2" ID sleeve, split it open, slice a second sleeve and split it open, cut a section from one sleeve and weld it into the first. Then hone it out to get a .782" ID sleeve. Then hone the lower shock bushing to accept. Unfortunately the rear springs did not fit inside my Whiteline camber arms. Did some measuring and found the GKtech ones fit. Ordered a set along with their traction/tension arms. The front tension arm bushings have been leaking for a while so in went some poly bushings. Still have some more work to do on the suspension but that will happen later. I couldn't leave the car on a shop lift for too long so moved on to other tasks. A couple issues needed correcting. The most significant was the tranny. I started having difficulty making the 2-3 shift and the 3-4 shift was getting impossible. Secondly, at MIR the clutch showed signs of being done. On the two step the car would roll through the lights. It never did this before and it was causing bad launches and may be responsible for the shifting difficulties. I also wanted to remove the sump to add a bung for a catch can return drain. I found that the oil thrown in the catch can at the track is perfectly clean and there is no sense in dumping it out every couple passes. I'll have a valve on the drain line for daily driving to keep water out of the oil. Got the car up and motor/trans out. Got the spare trans all prepped. This is an R33 unit so it needed switched to push type and a couple parts carried over. The guys that removed this last took the ATTESSA actuator out of the tcase and proceeded to drop it right on the end. They dropped it hard enough that the actuator didn't fit back in its hole in the tcase. Tore the trans down to check the syncros which were good and split the tcase to hone out the oblonged actuator hole. What a pain. Some people shouldn't be allowed to work on cars. The clutch floaters were very warped. Not wavy, but both were concave. I had the flywheel resurfaced for good measure before the rebuild kit went in. The clutch has been in the car for two years now so it held up well. Started reassembly. No pictures of the sump removal and -8 bung installation. These ARP bolts were about three threads too long. The previous installer cut the factory bolts down as well. Must be a thinner flywheel. Lastly I cut off the single NPT bung in the middle of this section of the radiator, filled it in, and added two bungs. Kind of a pain but there wasn't another neat place to put these. One is the head bleed vent and the other is the coolant pressure sensor. This will be the third location I've had it so hopefully this sees some usable data. Then I put the kid to work. Gotta start them young!
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