Malar1898

This Guide misses a second Bolt at the Powersteering Pump that needs to be loosened to relax or tension the Belt there. Its the Bolt fixating the Pump and Adjuster-Screw below the #3 shown here.

Thanks mate, yea that was frustrating, as theres really barely any space with the stupid Stock I take piping. Ill write in the DIY Guide

Fixed it, the DIY Guide was wrong. Theres a third Bolt that you have to loosen. It fixes the Adjuster-Bolt to the Pump, after that you can push DOWN in the Pump to relax the Belt.

I don't think anything is stuck, because the Belt slipped 2 Weeks ago and the Mechanic was just fine relaxing and tensioning the Belt again, so everything was moved not long ago. I'm referencing to this Thread: In there there is a Picture that looks similar to my Situation: Number 4 is the Adjuster, right? Here on the Picture its loose, just like mine. But theres no way to pivot the Pump with this adjuster Nut.

Hi, thanks for the answer, check out the Picture i posted. You can see the Locking Bolt loosened and the Adjuster loosened, just as the DIY FAQ describes it. But after loosing these two Bolts the Belt does not loosen. So thats basically my question, how can i move the PS-Pump? Because i can only tighten the Adjuster to tighten the belt, but theres no counter part to push the Pump back.

Dear all I hope you guys can help me before i'll throw this Car away. My Power Steering Belt slipped for the third time (one time completely and now the second time "only" half way and straight into the Cooler Fan which made a lovely Sound midway my Trip). I'll bring it to my mechanic to look into this (propably the Car is just cursed and hates me) but i need to drive it to him which takes me a 3 hours drive. The last time a guy from the breakdown service fixed it by relaxing and tightening the belt again, which i tried too, but i've loosen the Bolts according to the DIY FAQ and the P/S Pump won't move at all to loosen the Belt. I've tried pushing, pulling, leverage and even a hammer out of frustration, but the Belt stays tight as is. Can anyone point me in the direction why this Car can't just be easy to work on once?

Sorry, double posted

Engine: RB25DET Neo with stock internals Haltech Plug n Play ECU HKS Airfilter, HKS Silent Hi-Power Exhaust Catback, GT28 Turbo, R8 Ignition Coils, Fuel Pump, Intercooler. Rest is stock, including stock Catalysator and Intake (Street legal in switzerland) Aprox. 320kw

I already had aftermarket speakers (alpine) that were mounted in japan, but by the looks of it, there were no mounting rings needed.

Eton PRX 170.2 They're BLASTING on a upgraded Headunit without additional amp.

Hi, replaced my Wheel today but while pulling it off i spun the SAS and im not sure if i spun it back correctly. How could i test this out? The new Wheel is mounted correctly with the SAS Tab in the Hole.

Yes

Update: The Visco-Fan had a damaged Clutch and it wasnt spinning freely. That was the noise in high RPM. At the same time the fancy HKS Belt left his color on the Tensionier and was tensioned too hard, that caused the Idle Noise. Changed both, she purrs now.

Thanks man

Yea ill just do a timing-Belt job with pulley, tensioner, waterpump, everything. Had a Call with the Garage the Car got the Engine rebuild early 2020, they told me they did everything aswell, sent me recipes and stuff. Maybe the Belt is just a bit too tight, maybe the HKS Belt just whines like a Gates Belt, maybe its soon f**ked. Therefor ill just change it. Timing Belt and Pump is Pocket Money compared to a Engine-Job

Alright i made some Progress today! I was able to loosen up the Fan and remove it from the Shroud. After that i got so angry at the Alternator-Bolt that i removed it completely aaand i was able to move the Alternator! In the FAQ theres written to just loosen the Bolt, but i had to remove it entirely to adjust the Belt. With that done i loosened it up quite a bit, even making it screech upon startup, just for a Test. Since the Sound seems to be only apparent when the Engines warm i took it for a quick drive to warm it up (without Fan and loosened Alternator-Belt). The Sound is still there, but without Fan i was able to make a better Video of it. I guess thats not how a RB25DET should sound like, right?

Not yet, because i'm stuck in multiple places. I can't get the Fan out because two bolts are stuck and "rounded", these probably need to be drilled out. I wanted to ease the Alternator-Belt but the Alternator won't move after loosing both Bolts on the "Tightening-bracket".

Hmm that guy has no Video with sound in the Thread. However i read he has it on certain RPM ranges? Mine sounds throught all revs, starting in Idle and gets higher pitched / louder with every rpm. I gotta see which shop here has a little bit of knowledge about these Engines, its rare since the Skyline was never sold in europe. Can't do it with my Tools at home, i can't even get the Fan of since theres a nut at the bottom of the fan which i can't reach from the top, space is very limited with the Mishimoto-Watercooler and i can't remove that cause that would need me to drain the fluid. Thats something i can't do on my parkingspot, else they'll rip my contract in two parts. They already send me a "warning" letter that multiple people wrote them they're "scared" since i'm working on my car there and i'm not allowed to do any engine-work on the spot. So a bit lost here. Thought that "whine" is quite distinctive and someone on this forum for sure heard it before.

Alrighty, a bit bummed since the Timing Belt and accessory (including water pump) was changed 6 months ago before i bought the car. But i guess i'll start of with removing all belts beside the Timing Belt and see if the sound continues.

Hi Guys, so last week after a hard drive my R34 GTT has a pretty loud whining/wirring Noise coming from the front of the Engine. Its hard to catch on Camera since theres a lot of windnoise coming from the Ventilator in the front, i guess you can hear it the best while idling after reving it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q3AWah4SUGU This Noise gets louder with higher rpm, and is almost louder than the Exhaust at 6-7k rpm. It also happens with both clutch engaged and not. My guess is either the Timingbelt (but what exactly? I dont think it tighten up itself harder than the week before) or a secondary belt like the alternator (since i had a popped headlight bulb after the drive last week, maybe it overcharged and killed itself?). I know my way around a engine, but i'm not a mechanic and don't have proper equipment to lift the car and investigate blindly, so any hint is appreciated!

Solved it! Solution: Dont know if my car has a weird circuit, but the "Taillight"-Fuse is actually also the fuse for the front Parkers. I guess while plugging the new bulb in, it got shorted and i didnt check the Taillight Fuse at all. Works now!

Changed the Headlights on my R34 today from Halogen to Xenon. I had fitting wiring for the Xenon headlights which was convenient (i guess the Car had Xenons in Japan and got Halogens for compliance in Europe). So to test it i plugged one Headlight in and left the other (old one) plugged too. Worked fine, then i changed the Parker-Bulb in the new Headlight to a LED one and heard a sound like a small fuse blowing up, and both Parkers werent working anymore. Checked with different bulbs and all, but couldnt get it to work anymore. Finished up the job and both Xenon-Headlights are in, Low and High-Beam working just not the Parkers. I checked all Headlight-related fuses in the Fusebox next to the engine, but none of them is blown. Is there a Relay just for the Parkers or something like that? All Indicators, Brakelight and Low/highbeam is working, so thats odd to me.

Is there actually no one that uses the performance of their Cars? Barely getting any information out of this thread... Seems like people love putting 235 tyres on a 18x9.5 Rim... (My GFs Mini Cooper has bigger tyres btw.) Trying to figure out which size and offset i should order my Volk Ce28n in is a nightmare, since i currently only got 255 in the back and they can't hold the power on a mountain road. Should fit beefy Toyo R888R but can't have any rubbing or scrubbing under any circumstances, full lock steering in a circle 5x at 40 km/h will be tested, else the Car gets impounded.

They're Street Legal in Switzerland because they have a reclining back 🙂 Thats why i bought 2x genuine seats with 2x genuine bride rails, yes this cost me 5300CHF so around 5700USD. So the female buckle attaches right to the rail? That would be amazing news. Not so sure what you mean by "sign them off"?

Did anyone manage to fit a 18 inch 275 in the back without stretching the tyre? Chasing the Performance here, so a meaty tyre is desired. As i'm reading 255s are scrubbing the liners in the front, anyone fitted 245s? Since any visible scrubbing on the liners will get your car immediately impounded here and they check that in EVERY police control 😕