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YD34GTT's Achievements
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Project mu calipers ? Nice but gg talk about $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Have you tried looking for evo brembos? You'd be surprised, I found front and Rears evo 8 brembos for 1.5k, Need to consider adaptors, lines, rotors pads etc I guess if $ isn't a problem project mu is good but be prepared to pay over 3.2k for fronts only
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Did you do the evo brembo conversion?
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I actually bought a full set haha so goinh fronts and back will there be an issue, really don't want to get rid of ABS
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Literally bought evo 8 brembos 2 days ago to do the conversion using alpha omega adaptors, lines, bigger BMC etc What abs issues can there be if I do this upgrade?
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Wtb red altia badge Hmu if you have Want oem not 3d printed
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Yeah i did some digging and figured so Might just go upgraded rotors and pads for now and if I increase track work I'll look into going either BBK or go down the road of using alpha omega adaptors and go evo brakes Thanks for the info
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Do the dba t3 5000 324 directly bolt on to the gtt ?
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For a 34 which will be built for 500kw and maybe do a track day once a year BBK are over kill you would say? Might even consider going project MU rotors over DBA if anyone knows if they're better than DBA
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YD34GTT started following R34 GTT brake upgrade
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Looking at upgrading my brakes whilst my engine is being built Is it really worth spending the $$ for a big brake kit on my 34? or would a good set of DBA Slotted rotors (t3 4000) and pads suffice (dixcel type z or project mu F236 HC+) Any other recommendations for rotors? I mean going to 355 will look nice but is it worth the $$? For reference will be buying work sp13 18s
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Ahaa ok now it makes sense thanks heaps for clarity And sorry last question then everything will make sense for me in this regard So why do so many remove the HX if it's function isn't replaced? Is it not important or is it that it does not perform well with heavily modified engines Like if I remove mine and use those oil cooler kits am I at risk of anything (I live in Sydney if that helps with climate)
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Ahh ok so putting the taarks oil block with the sensors and the oil relocation with thermostat does not do what the factory HX does? (That's maybe where my thought process was wrong) I was under the assumption they replaced the factory HX and did a better job
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Just still trying to wrap my head around all of this as I'm still newbie in this field and still learning If you get an oil cooler kit that removes the factory HX but has an oil filter relocation with an inbuilt thermostat and the taarks oil block which allows for OEM pil pressure sensor and additional senskry ports for temp why would the factory HX still be required. Aren't all these components essentially working together to allow for warming/cooling of oil regardless of cold starts or not? Example this kit I found has all components to allow for warming/cooling of oil regardless of cold start or drag/roll/circuit https://theskylineshed.com.au/products/the-skyline-shed-tss-oil-cooler-kit-to-suit-rb20-rb25-rb25neo-rb26-rb30?variant=41664869368002