Chopstick Tuner
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Posts posted by Chopstick Tuner
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The gap seemed pretty equal tbh, I measured quite roughly using a tape yesterday so I'm not 100% on the measurement (perhaps 19mm from caliper inside edge to rotor, from memory) but were the same both sides of the caliper. On passenger side both inner and outer pad seemed equally jammed and same result, can't spin it.
I've pulled them out for a look and rotors are definitely 32mm if not a hair thicker. I did consider machining rotors as I thought it would be a more permanent solution but discovered there's a marking stating minimum thickness of 30mm 😅
Just to clarify, where would you consider a spacer on the caliper? As the caliper sits on the rotor side of the hub, the only way to sit it further away from rotor would be to machine a bit off the mounting point of the caliper.
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12 hours ago, Duncan said:
FWIW, I believe that while we often say r33 gtst and r32 gtr (non brembo) have the same size discs, i seem to remember R33 has a 30mm disc thickness and GTR had 32mm. How thick is the disc you have? The caliper/disc offset is the same.
This is on a r32 gtst, right? I would check there is no shim or washer of any sort between the hub and caliper mounts
Yes on a R32 gtst, there's nothing between the caliper and hub though. But yes I'm fairly certain the rotors I ordered were for R32 gtr which would be 32mm. Still doesn't explain the issue unless it's a manufacturing issue with the rotors which seems unlikely given the brand.
I really don't want to buy any more parts just to diagnose 🙈
Tried to reply earlier but wasn't working for some reason so I'll reply to both comments*
Yeah it wasn't as easy as I'd like to slide the pads over the rotor with all the hardware attached unfortunately. Thinking I may have to do the unfortunate compromise of getting rotors machined down to fit rather than buy more new ones. Perhaps chassis matters slightly ie 33 calipers + 32gtr rotors on a 32 gtst. I'm not sure, I find it unusual
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Hey folks,
Long story short I had an issue with brake squeal, and since fitting the oem shim kit, they're tight af on just the inner pad.
Just want to see if anyone has previously encountered this issue before I go spending more money on rotors/ machining etc
So full story. Since replacing front brakes I've been chasing an issue with horrible brake squeal at all temps. I had fitted DBA T3 296mm front rotors (as car evidently has R33 gtst/32gtr calipers since 296mm were on it when i bought it), Bendix Ultimate Pads and rebuilt the front calipers using an OEM rebuild kit so pistons now move nice and free. With these pads I couldn't fit the oem anti squeal shims/plates whatever you prefer to call em (they have their own built in shim which obstructs the oem ones), so I didn't and they screamed at medium braking no matter what I did.
So to solve the squeal I've swapped them out for a set of Project Mu pads meaning I was able to fit a full new set of oem shims. However once pads were in I noticed there was twice as much pad free play on the outer pad than the inner (inner was quite tight) and once wheel was on and tightened it couldn't turn, as it has pressed the rotor against the inner pad.
So while the problem may seem silly, I'm struggling to think of reasons for this aside from rotor offset being incorrect or rotor being too thick, or caliper pistons being stuck but they move fine and all 4 pistons are sitting in the same position. Is there a difference in rotor thickness between 32 gtr and 33 gtst? Is there difference in offset/depth? Have I missed something completely stupid?
I could remove the shims but that doesn't really solve the underlying issue lol. Happens on both sides if that helps.
Thanks for reading this long post.
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On 23/07/2022 at 8:27 PM, Murray_Calavera said:
Yeah this is what I was looking at, think I'll have more peace of mind just biting the bullet
On 23/07/2022 at 8:39 PM, GTSBoy said:It's also the work of 5 minutes to make replacement hard line pieces with a flare tool and 6" of bundy tube.
This is true but I don't have any of the above, I work on stuff that's much bigger as a career so don't really find myself making brake lines or anything similar.
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On 23/07/2022 at 7:12 PM, Duncan said:
Part numbers are
46245-05U01
46246-05U01
Amayama says they are non available and out of production
Everyone just replaces the hard and soft lines with a single piece braided line
Actually looks a bit different, mine is gtst and just goes like 2 inches downward curving.
However if the gtr one is discontinued then surely the rest are too so I think I'll have to bite the bullet and just change for a single piece braided line. Cheers for your help
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Is it even possible (and cost effective) to get the short OEM hard line that attaches to the front caliper itself? The pipe nuts on mine are well round and were a pain to remove to get caliper off.
I already have braided lines up to there so before I fork out for another set of braided lines just so I can delete the hard line I figured I'd see if anyone knows a part number or aftermarket option. Tried searching and all I get is braided kits lol.
And obvs if they're gonna be crazy money I'll just have to get new braided lines to make life easier
Cheers
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Mate you need to put all the info here so we're not going in circles.
1) Have you removed plugs to see if there's too much fuel as one of the guys suggested?
2) Have you swapped fuel lines to be sure you're not mixed up as was suggested? No offence but you didn't sound remotely confident they're correct.
3) Have you checked that you have power at the injectors at all?
4) What was the fuse that was blown?
5) Have you contacted the tuner for their input considering they just tuned it and possibly missed something?
Diagnostics requires a lot of ruling things out until you narrow down possibilities, difficult to do with half the information available.
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Timing belt is the same, water pump differs on a neo by the one smaller bolt hole if I'm not mistaken.
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M12x1.25, length I believe is 40 or 42mm
Front is 14.3mm knurl
Rear is 13mm knurl
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On 03/06/2022 at 10:50 PM, the_dude said:
I hear no clicking whatsoever from the injectors. They’re brand new, I double checked all the connections, fuses are good. What else could be causing them not to click?
(injector data if that helps)
Should have a constant 12v supply to the injectors, ecu switches the earth. Not sure how many things could prevent ecu from telling injectors to fire but there's a few
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On 02/06/2022 at 11:23 PM, the_dude said:
The lines appear to be in order. Before when I said I popped off the pressure line and no fuel came out- I touched the top line. I popped off the bottom line and fuel did spray out. So I believe fuel is getting to the rail. I primed the pump 10 times before starting and still no luck. I sprayed starter fluid into the throttle body and it started maybe half a second before giving up. I feel like I’m so close!
Do as said above just to rule it out. Then next step, if you're confident you have fuel in rail, is see if your injectors have power and if they're clicking at all.
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If you're concerned about battery voltage, put it on a load tester. If it drops below 9v put it in the bin. Could even have a loose battery terminal (forgive me for starting so basic, I don't know how mechanically minded you are) and therefore losing electrical power and spark etc.
Start with that before diving in deep, charging problems and lack of voltage will affect spark, how much power the fuel pump gets and so on.
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Did you prime it after?
Having all the fuel out of the rail and lines means it's not just going to fire up first flick of the key. Need to get the pump to prime 3 or 4 times before trying to start.
Failing that, possibly lines mixed up as Duncan said
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On 02/06/2022 at 9:40 AM, proline said:
So the two connected washers I'm talking about are labelled 15192F in the 3rd diagram on the page linked to in the response above. The OEM part number is 1518913C00. The two washers sit either side of a banjo but are connected by a strip of copper. As I said above this is for the oil inlet banjo bolt attached directly to the turbo (i.e the where a HKS 0.8mm restrictor bolt would go if needed) not the water/oil tube adapter that bolts to the turbo.
I've measured the amount of thread that will go into the housing and it is 5mm with the 1mm thick OEM washers and only 4.4mm with the new washers. The banjo bolt is M12 - hence my concern.
I've attached a photo to help explain the above showing the OEM washer and the thread depth with the new washers.
Love this forum. As someone who has zero access to GTR expertise and no mechanical background I find the posts here invaluable - thanks.
Lee
Just to add, that does not look like the correct banjo bolt. Not a washer issue, that bolt looks too short
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The thickness difference you mention is negligible. As was said above, the connecting part is for ease of installation rather than needing to hold the inside washer in place while trying to line it up. New pipes with already attached banjo bolts sometimes have a plastic retainer that you rip off once you get the threads started.
They're not that specific, just make sure they're thick enough to actually be crushed and not too thick that it reduces the thread engagement - both unlikely. So just get your diameters right and tighten it up.
Oh and copper washers should not be doubled up.
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On 31/05/2022 at 3:21 PM, GTSBoy said:
And....no. You're not going to draw 3ish kW of power from a 12V supply.
BEVs and hybrids that use electric AC compressors are running them on the 42V standard that sort became the thing when such high power demand applications started to become a thing, or even higher voltages. This because..... they have higher voltage available.
You wanna rig up a special alternator capable of putting out 42V, then yeah, maybe.
True, didn't think of the voltage they run at if using one direct from an EV. And the cost.
Not sure what the aftermarket is like for stuff like that, obviously electric water pumps and ps pumps are popular, but they have a demand among track and motorsport cars hence the options exist. AC pumps however, not so much
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Long story short, if you plan to do it you'll likely be pioneering constant AC on an RB track car, and will be letting us know how good or bad the idea went.
Curious to see if an electric AC pump can be made to work in there, equally curious to see if your stock one explodes at wot high RPM.
Godspeed sir 🤣
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Most manufacturers have this feature as standard, to avoid damaging AC compressor and components, not for the extra hp.
Would it damage from one or two over revs? Probably not, but constant high RPM on a track, I would say you're asking for it to fail. I don't know of anyone that's done it, and there's probably a good reason.
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I still wouldn't rule it out. It raises the question of why the cooler hose blew off all of a sudden, usually means it's been loose for a while.
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Mind me asking what you've owned/driven before this build since you say it's your first Rb25?
Just curious, as you've asked for inputs on whether your power goals are too much for a street Rb25, then kinda tried to tell them why you should build it for 700whp anyway then potentially dial it back to 500. That's a big drop and the components used to make 700hp safely are going to have drawbacks in a 2.5L, which won't be remedied by dialing back to 500hp nor will you see the benefits of them.
Your injector argument is not the same, going from an 850cc injector to 1000cc is not going to change your power delivery like putting a much bigger turbo on than is necessary.
But just for my two cents and to humbly answer one of the questions in your post, I would consider that power level too much for fun street use. You see guys run that kind of power and they're changing gear as soon as the wastegate cracks open, because otherwise they're frying tyres, seems a waste if you can't get on full boost.
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On 22/05/2022 at 10:04 AM, joshuaho96 said:
I was visualizing a splitter like this so you can just run wires to your ECU/gauge/etc without chopping up a harness or something like that, the important part is to get as close to infinite impedance as possible on the new wiring so as not to disturb the existing electronics that need that sensor as well:
Now I get ya, interesting. Would you put an aftermarket sensor in and bin the oem one, then use that sensor to do your factory gauge as well as a new gauge or ecu input?
Because I considered getting rid of oem one but didn't want the oil light on the dash, or to bridge the factory wires.
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On 22/05/2022 at 9:49 AM, joshuaho96 said:
RBs already take ages to get the oil up to temperature when I stare at the gauge and that's in a pretty temperate climate driving the car gingerly to warm it up. Can't imagine having it take even longer without the OEM heat exchanger. Obviously for a full race kind of deal there's no point in having one, the N1 cars deleted all of that in favor of having an air cooled setup mounted in front of the radiator.
I have wondered for a while now, what's keeping people from using a very high impedance analog input to sample the OEM sensor instead of adding more sensors that clutter up what is already a very cramped area of the engine? The gauge reacts very slowly obviously but is the same true of the actual sensor itself?
Well he mentioned adding oil temp sensor also, so adding an additional gauge means he has no choice to but to find a way to fit an extra sensor in there.
But as for your question, convenience is the likely answer. Seems easy to just chuck a new sensor in there somewhere, new gauge on the dash and just not rely on any oem sensor, wiring, or gauges.
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On 20/05/2022 at 7:28 PM, ggub said:
Cheers. Is this the sort of thing we're talking?
Looks pretty much like what I got
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On 20/05/2022 at 6:45 PM, ggub said:
Sweet, seems like remote mount shouldn't be necessary then and T-piece seems like it would probably be the easiest. If I go that route, a quick google says the thread is 1/8 BSP. Is that correct?
Correct. Many aftermarket will be 1/8npt so need a T Piece that's BSP on one and npt on the other if you buy one that is
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![IMG_20220602_001500[2].jpg](http://saufiles.s3.ap-southeast-2.amazonaws.com/monthly_2022_06/1977089352_IMG_20220602_0015002.jpg.761064150b23443a7ccd7702bf19f297.jpg)
R32 Front Brakes not fitting
in Suspension, braking and tyres
Posted
Totally understandable, my post wasn't entirely clear because I wasn't yet sure what I was dealing with. But having fitted up the other side it seemed just too tight a squeeze to get pads past the rotor both sides. It's entirely possible it pressed slightly harder against one pad but I think the issue still stems simply from thickness unfortunately.
I'm going to look into getting pads altered and see how that goes. It's definitely not much, as everything fits with no shims fine like I had before, but that's obviously not ideal lol
Always more to learn working on these. Cheers for the insights!