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Everything posted by CUR33

  1. yes the MAF was cleaned, voltage was checked (12v, signal voltage and ground are good) That's what i'm starting to think. The check valve is in the fuel pump (Walbro 255). I will be replacing the whole pump.
  2. I had access to spare rail which included the injectors and FPR. That way if the issue was relating to a leaking injector or FPR issue it would be sorted. However the fuel pressure it still not holding. iv changed the FPR as well and no luck. note: old fuel rail setup has Since been reverted back We know that there is definitely a fuel pressure leak. fuel leak down test = failed (pressure drops instantly) The question is where is the leak occurring.. possible causes injectors = no leak from any while priming FPR = tried to pitch the short hose on the FPR while pump was priming and the pressure shot up to 100psi but after pumped stopped went back down to 0 In saying that iv tried another FPR with the same result. Either the 2 FPRs I have are faulty or something else is causing the Pressure drop. Fuel tank lock ring One other observation is that The lock ring where the fuel pump goes in the boot is split. fuel pressure might be escaping from there. I’ll replace this first and see if that changes anything.
  3. Straight away (as per video) i replaced the rail with another one, complete with injectors and FPR. After installing, car won’t start. By CEL do you mean relating to an ignition problem? the ignition loom was converted from series 1 > series 2 and ignition coils changed to s2 ones with the (igniter at the top) I can confirm the 1st 2nd and third plug is giving spark. (See pic) More checks: - cat = removed not blocked - coils = Resistance test relatively consistent on all 6 - spark good tested on cyl 1, 2, 3 (by grounding to the rocker cover) - still investigating why cat overheat light started turning on when cranking..
  4. I ended up testing with a gauge. On prime fuel pressure jumps to 50psi then back to 0. See video. i tested with another fuel rail and the same thing happens. The pressure doesn’t hold in the lines and dropped after fuel pump stops. After changing the rail car is not starting, when cranking I noticed the cat overheat warning light comes on. Might need to check if the Cat is blocked. So there are the issues: - car no longer starting - not holding fuel pressure on prime - cat overheat warning light (might be blocked) FullSizeRender.mov
  5. That's good to know, i did end up adjusting the timing to 20° to help with idling issues. I currently don't have a fuel pressure gauge to check. But i did check that the Fuel pump primes and the pressure build up in the lines can be heard just before the pump stops. Also when i open the filler cap it makes a 'tisss' sound. The issue is: Black smoke from exhaust hesitation/rev fluctuation - spark = yes - coils = good - FPR = untested - Injectors = untested - fuel filter = good I'm started to think the issue could be relating to the injectors or fuel regulator. more testing tomorrow to try and identify the issue..
  6. Hi everyone, I've done some searching on the forum, however couldn't find something which exactly matches my issue or has solved it. The issue is relating to unstable idle on start up where revs fluctuate and black smoke can be seen from the exhaust with a noticeable fuel smell. After about a minute, the revs will start to stabilize but if gas pedal is pressed it worsens the rev fluctuation. soon after plugs become sooty. Note: I've attached a video of what happens Troubleshooting I've done so far: CTS replaced, tested wiring (good ground and other wire giving 5volts) adjusted timing to 15 degrees checked for vacuum leaks around the intercooler pipping and engine bay > measured vacuum at -17hg changed plugs MAF sensor tested (signal wire showing voltage change, car stalls when unplugged) coils tested (engine hesitates when each one unplugged, resistance testing consistent throughout the 6) tested with o2 sensor plugged and unplugged Car was running fine a week ago. in some cases if i unplug the battery and clean the plugs it runs smoother. The car is running a stock ecu and at times throwing error code 54 on the dash which is A/T Control. It has a manual transmission but i realized the ECU is for automatic (MEC R531 A1 4225) Could this be possibly causing the issue? As you can see I'm currently running out of ideas looking for some possible causes/solutions. Thanks Ray IMG_7018.mov
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