Almera96gtin15

Sounds like a pulley maybe, make sure it's not the water pump (get garage to check mate)

Cool, I could do with someone sending me a peice that's not too squashed, so that an exact rubber can be made. Mine is not too bad but it's a bit dry and squished.

How many people would need a replacement sunroof weatherseal for their r33 - c35 laurel - altima/bluebird? I'm going to try and get some sunroof weatherstrip seals made up for the r33 if I can get one in good condition. I would imagine it would help some people including me.

Hey lads, I need a r33 sunroof glass or a seal for it please or some sort of replacement seal. Someone must have found a solution. I've got one that's OK for now but will need replacement eventually. I read about webasto H300 but you can't even get them. Thanks, mark

Makes sense, thank you. I'll have a look.

G'day lads, my R33 s2 has a do luck front bumper with what it looks like s1 front indicators. I noticed that there is a 3 pin plug with black, green and red (which has been snipped) I want to fit some sort of fog lights to the bumper, and wondered if anyone knows what the red wire does and if it can be power to an aftermarket fog light? If I run an earth wire also. I have the fog symbol on the right stalk.

Hahaha lol I don't mean that the whole CAS spins The mitsubishi symbol in the centre of the CAS. Have a look at yours and you'll see what I mean. It's not a casper the friendly ghost situation lol.

I noticed that the centre of the CAS (mitsubishi symbol) is not spinning all the time and sometimes stops all together? I touched it and the symbol spins, even the engine note changes when I touch it. Is it faulty? As I get slight bit of a hesitation when boosting also. I only decided to check iacv (cleaned with brake cleaner) and check the timing as it was fluctuating on idle. Thanks guys.

Yeah lol probably. Can I just ask if anyone knows obviously. With the adjustment on the pedal rod maxxed out, will it cause any problems with anything? (picture on page 1) I made sure the pedal had a bit of play before it moved the rod also. I suppose I could go back a bit and see if the gears still change smoothly, What do you reckon?

Hi Donald, if your on about the master cylinder rod at the back of the pedal. I had to put it nearly to the end of the thread to first of all lift the pedal bite off the floor (overstroke condition to press heavy duty clutch pressure plate) when I took the pin out of the fork, it moved out further (to the end of travel for the master cylinder) I lined the pedal up with the hole by moving the pedal stopper back a bit to accommodate it. Like you I'm not sure if it will cause any problems. I'm trying it while my new clutch beds in properly.

Yes mate I'm happy with their response to my queries, it's difficult to diagnose obviously without seeing the car in person. They allowed me to get in contact to pass onto engineers. It made sense to me afterwards to take the clutch pedal pin out, let it take the pressure off the rod which moved out slightly, and adjust from there, with a bit of play in the pedal before engagement. Obviously I'm going to go normally until everything is bedded in, I treat all my cars with respect anyway. Cheers lads, this forum is a good community, hardly anyone replies in the UK forums like they used to do. It's much appreciated

Thank you for all the help guys, since I backed the pedal stopper off a bit and made sure there was a bit of free play at the top and it's driving a lot smoother and gears are selecting without hassle. It must have been more adjustment needed like a few suggested. After the clutch has bedded in a bit I'll check it again. I sent the videos with the sound to ACS and they said this: "What you are experiencing is harmonic noise and nothing to do with the bearing. The Australian engineers have said it sounds like gear noise/gearshift rattle This can happen on some vehicles and depends on the condition of everything else. There may be some worn bushes in the linkage which could be cured by replacing them or some gear rattle which may be 'dampened' with some tougher gearbox oil.

I'll take a picture soon, so you can see mate. I was only asking because, now the rod has been adjusted out for more throw I don't have any slop in clutch pedal. So when I took the pin out of the fork, the rod moved slightly towards me out of the hole which made me think the pedal stopper has to come back a bit to allow a bit of play? Is that right?

Thanks for the replies guys, I appreciate it. Slave cylinder is the stock one. Clutch fork is OK and pivot. I think it's the release bearing making the noise, everything else seems fine now. Pedal had come up a bit since bedding in a bit. I'll ask again if possible please, I read that taking the pin out on the pedal (the shaft moves out further about 1/2 an inch) If I let the shaft come out and line the hole up with the pin and move pedal stopper back is this a good idea? Or not. By the way I did notice the clutch pedal is slightly lower than brake pedal.

I had a reply from Acs which were helpful. He says the xtreme bearing is correct for the clutch. I was reading a post about someone removing the pin on the clutch pedal rod and the rod came out further, he adjusted the pedal stopper up to where the pin meets the hole and its been good after that. Is that OK to do? To check for correct adjustment of the pedal?

The stock carrier sleeve is 18mm, as far as I am aware for stock r33 gtst. I checked the travel, and the first 1/4 of the clutch pedal starts to move the slave cylinder and carries on moving as the pedal gets to the bottom. If the carrier is correct for the release bearing that came with the xtreme clutch kit, is there much else it could be? Such as the lightened flywheel and heavy duty clutch echoing the sound through the box. Release bearing could be faulty etc? Someone must have fitted this model clutch to their r33 gtst the same as me surely? KNI24001-1AX. I'm waiting to see if ACS get back to me.

The release bearing or something is rattling when I let go of the throttle, and grumbling low in the revs. It's almost as if its not disengaging fully.

Right, I've just drove the car. Clutch engagement is straight off the floor about 1 inch but the pedal adjustment rod is nearly all the way out. There's a tiny bit of thread left but is it worth it adjusting it a bit more?

I want to just say thank you for the help guys, it's much appreciated The pedal adjustment was the problem and has been sorted thanks to your suggestions. Awsome, cheers.

Thank you for your reply mate. The release bearing is the on that came in the kit with the xtreme clutch KNI24001-1AX so that should be correct (the mechanic did say that it was a different size though) and the carrier is the original one from the car that was pressed off and the other release bearing pressed onto carrier. I'll suggest the pedal adjustment tomorrow to the mechanic, the old clutch friction disc was right down to the rivets (original 81k miles) would a new clutch normally need pedal adjustment? Also, when you say "If the slave rod is moving all the way with the pedal" All the way with the pedal what mate?

I've had an xtreme clutch and lightened flywheel, spigot, release bearing and crank oil seal fitted by my garage locally in my R33 gtst s2 It's had everything put back together, along with braided clutch line to delete the dampener. It will select 1st, 2nd and 3rd just about BUT won't select 4th or 5th or reverse, the biting point is instant and near the floor. Feels like the gear isn't available on the box if you get me, when engine is off it selects all gears smoothly. The mechanic bled the system with a vacuum first, then in the car with me assisting. Crack nipple, depress clutch, tighten. Did the same thing for the slave. The peddle feels normal. The car changed gear fine before the garage did the clutch change, but obviously the clutch started slipping that's why I booked the car in straight away. The clutch pedal hasn't been adjusted. (not sure if that would help as it's just for height of peddle?) Help would be appreciated quickly if possible, as it's on the ramp still If you could p.m me and possibly speak to me that would be great also please. Cheers.

I can confirm that the sedan glass/seal unit bolts to the coupe mechanism/runners It's the internal frame that's different, but it bolts to the same mounting holes. May help someone guys

Hi guys, I just wondered please if the r33 sedan sunroof glass and seal is a direct bolt onto r33 gtst 2 mechanism? If anyone knows could you tell me please. Cheers, mark