mitchy_

sure is garys old car. it's funny you say that, gary and i had many phone calls leading up to the sale, and there was actually another young guy who wanted to buy it for drifting. gary sounded very reluctant to sell it to someone who a) hadn't had a powerful car before, and b) wanted to essentially thrash it... i was more than willing to take this excellent example of a 31 off his hands, and besides maintenance and personal touches (rims, etc) i haven't touched the car. definately a tough and tidy jap streeter.

meisters are gay, so i got rid of them. i've always wanted a set and bought them purely because they were 4 stud... but unfortunately they were only 17x8 +28 all round.. needed spacers to clear front brakes, and too narrow for the rear, struggle with traction as it is, let alone going to a smaller tyre. guess we aren't friends anymore, eh?

cheers guys.. should probably update it a bit.. got 2 new sets of rims.. some 17" Buddy Club P1's, and 17" 2 piece Work Meister S1's just had the P1's powder coated black, need to get around to doing the same with the meisters.

yep, the 33 does have the block with the second bleed nippe and extra lines for the clutch

he never mentioned 'cheap'.... i had a JVC KW-AVX800 in my legnum, it was double din touch screen, mp3/divx/dvd, etc.. i think the KW-AVX900 was the same with a TV module, and you could get a bluetooth and GPS adaptor for both models as well.

yep.. you'll probably find most of the better size/offset rims are multistud anyway.. both the sets i've had that clear 33 brakes were.

i have 17x9 +15's in 4x114.3 all round, clears the 33 gtst brakes on my 31.

no, s13/r33 are 4x114.3

is it getting spark and fuel? switch coil packs around and see if it follows the coilpack, if not switch injectors and see if it follows the injector.

my old car... sparco hyper fang II 17x8 +32 front 17x9 +38 rear definately needed more offset though.

yes, lets remove the structural reinforcement from the front of the car, what a fantastic idea.

the turbo itself muffles the exhaust, thus why most NA cars are louder than turbo with similar exhaust system, etc..

is it just the reo bar that is in the way? you can either trim the front bar (i presume its a fibreglass copy?) or trim the reo bar depending on how much it hits

all that keeping the same offset will do is give you the same track width. how many track GTR's etc run 18x10 +12's and the likes without any issues. and for those saying 7.5" wont fill the guards, blah blah.. you obviously have no idea about offset. a 7.5 +15 for example, will sit further out than a 9 +38... that said, i don't recommend 7.5" rims... something around 18x9 +20 front, 18x10 +25 rear will be nice and tough on a 33/34. i run 17x9 +15 all round on my 31, but the rear could ideally be 17x9 +0, or 17x10 +12 to fill the guards properly.

incorrect, that's the old ruling, its since been replaced/updated. read the 'National Code of Practice' for the current ruling. they do. its called the 'National Code of Practice', and covers everything to do with vehicle modifications. google it and you shall find everything you need to know. it came and went.

16x6.5 +42ish if i remember correctly...

they dont need to drain back to the sump, just cant vent to atmosphere. i cant see much why it wouldn't pass, there are no real big issues with it. i highly doubt the pits will pick up the twins, especially being low mount.

hicas and power steering are speed sensitive, so no speedo reading gives you hicas errors and heavy steering.

i had a set cleaned and flow tested at united injection in redcliffe, cost $240 for all 6.

32's use a cable driven speedo, and i think the ecu gets a electronic signal off the back of the speedo.. so if the RSM was shorting out, it shouldn't stop the speedo from working.

you need to do that with your JUN motor.

speedo sender in the gear box? remove it and give the cog a spin (assuming one is on there, if not.. that's your problem) if you spin it and the speedo doesn't work, then its likely to be the speedo itself.

very nice! as chris said, better be stealth fittings, not the standard red/blue. chris - is that coating straight over the rough ali casting, or has it been tidied up? came out looking a LOT better than stock, and i'm guessing lower maintenance than polished parts.

it's actually a mates car.. the guards are definately rolled though, the rear guard lips were rolled pretty flat as that was the main rubbing area.