heller44

What he said. If you really want to dig into it, its 123Hz approximately. Not 1230. Not duty cycle, frequency. Roughly inverse relationship to speed. 12v switched. If you don't know the difference, perhaps this isn't your thing? Pretty sure there is a plug in module available these days for fixing things when hicas is locked out.

And it is already sold. 11 years and that is that.

1989 R32 GTS4 RB26DETT - Western Australia I have owned this car for over 10 years and now it comes time to move it on. It is a real shame to have this just sitting in the shed, but I rarely get to drive it any more. Originally from factory as a GTS4 (so already AWD), pearl black, automatic, RB20DET. Only know this from a break down of the VIN. So a few things have changed. The RB26DETT and fairly much most of a GTR drivetrain and suspension had been fitted before I bought it. Things I have done, or had done.. Resprayed ~10 years ago in silver. Replaced transfer case, and then whole gearbox with a new R33 series 3 unit. ORC 709D Twin Plate Clutch, with new slave and rebuilt master cylinder. Garrett 707160-5 twin turbos fitted, new. Equivalents to the HKS 2530's. 700cc SARD injectors. Apexi PFC. Nismo AFM's. R34 GTR Brembo front brakes with DBA5000 discs, reconditioned R32 GTR rears. APEXI pod filters. Tomei Poncam 'B' camshafts. HKS Drager exhaust, Mine's dump pipes, Apexi front pipe. Evo 8 recaros with drivers on Bride rail. GTR rear seat. Genuine Nardi steering wheel. VOLK Rays LE37 18x8.5 with Federal 595RS tires. Koni adjustable shocks with Kings low springs. Adjustable caster arms. Reconditioned steering rack fitted. Price $16,000 ono. Can either PM or phone/txt on o417 961145. No Lowballs or time wasters thank you. Not interested in swaps.

Just about everything from a gtr will bolt in to your gts4. Get a half cut and go nuts. Tach will work same same. Original gts4 gearbox bin it or you will break it. Either way, you will be replacing it..

Not any more. Painful to find, but ended up being the hose going from the air chamber under the intake to the dump valves. Vacuum leak plain and simple.

Did you find a solution?

See post 47/49.. Educate mechanic. As long as the engine is running the engine fan will be pulling more than enough air past the aircon section. If the engine isn't running you don't need to worry about the aircon..

Just remember, evo seats don't have a flip forward feature, so basically makes the rear seat redundant. Wouldn't want someone stuck in there if worst case happens. I have a set of evo 8 seats in my 32, used bride rails to fit and were a lot lower than the adapters you can buy for the existing sliders. The evo seats replaced a set of 33 gtst seats that were unmodified. Super comfy, grip nicely, and look good.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/160054-my-power-steerings-gone-after-installing-hicas-lock-bar/page-2 Pics are still there, suprisingly enough.

Interesting as the old suspension I ripped out of my car was original r32 gtr all around.

Put a meter on the steering rack solenoid and see if you are getting anything there for a start. May be something as simple as a broken wire.

Confirm that r32 gts4 is 4.375:1

Auto ECM in my 32 is a totally seperate module, lives behind the drivers kick panel (Is still in there wired up but not used). Didn't think there was any difference between auto and manual ecu's.. Happy to be enlightened.

R33 and R32 gtst brakes are quite different. R32 is 280x30. R33 is 296x30. I wouldn't be suggesting to anyone to use r32gtst rotors with r32 gtr calipers.. Personal preference given my experience on my car, I'd go r33/r34 brembos. 324mm discs.

Are you sure the stock gts4 was 290x30? I thought it was the same as the GTST type-m at 280x30, different calipers as well. I have the GTR calipers with 296x32 discs on mine atm. Both are 4 pot sumitomo's but definately different calipers.

Thought long and hard about doing this to mine as well.. but it is nice not being stung every time I get to take it for a drive.

Thanks, mine showed up the other day. Pity they are going in the box of 'things to get around to later' stuff.

New wheels, to me anyway. Meant to be 17's but when they showed up they were 18's.. Reckon I should be able to fit some decent sized brakes under these ones anyway. Genuine rays.

How much including shipping to w.a.? 6155.. for 235/40/18's Thanks.

Does anyone happen to have the measurements for these brakes, 330mm kit top of caliper out from center. The rims I have at the moment, even though they are 17's, have a narrow barrel towards the spokes and require a caliper / rotor combination that sit a little more snugly. Fitting r32 gtr sumitomos and with 324mm discs and dogbones the top of the caliper fouls on the inner of the barrel, not the spokes. I have tried to get a template, or measurements for this kit but they seem to be unavailable.

Well, here is my example. 17x8.5 rims all round, same brand. Newish tyres on front but rears were shagged so put new ones on and threw them on the front. All 235/45/17's, just two differnt brands front / back. Attessa surging at highway speeds, torque gauge pulsing when cruising along, felt it through seat of pants. And before you start, there was nothing wrong with the system, it was caused by the tyres.

Quick note of personal experience.. 235/45/17's front and back, different brands each end though. Enough of a difference to make the attessa freak, surging when up to freeway speeds. Keep the wheels the same and tyres the same to minimise any headf**ks. I'd save for a gtr, no point buying a gts4. Can't get enough tyre under the thing for when you get it moving nicely, and gtr's just look better.

Entered as well..

Usually a few in the back of the cockburn rag that gets dumped in your driveway. Used to be a $50 woolies voucher for a car, they arrive, throw a chain through the windows as above and lift in on, as above ^..

After the engine has warmed up or while cold? I had to put a pilot relay in for the starter solenoid for when mine had warmed up otherwise it would just give me a 'click' occasionally.