Space Goat

G’day, I’m looking at buying an elgrand from Victoria. However I’m worried about what will happen when I change of state of registration... I’ve bought interstate cars before and I’m aware of needing a blue slip however what happens to the Victorian compliance papers and engineers certificates... if you don’t know elgrands are complied in aus as 2 seater campervans and then reengineered back to 7 or 8 seaters... will I need to get the car checked by a compliance workshop and potentially more work done to meet Nsw guidelines and then checked by an engineer or does it all transfer over... after reading a little into it im positive the compliance papers are ok because raws is a federal government thing not a state govt thing (I think). But I’m not sure about the engineers modifications your input would be greatly appreciated Thanks in advance cheers rick

The bottom photo was a sample I got from prestige motorsport website to show how the mileage lines up compared to the the export papers I got (the second photo)

A little help interpreting these export documents Hiya, Looking at buying the missus an E51 Elgrand. Would rather buy one from over here than sight unseen in Japan. Ive looked at plenty of dealers and cant find any I like/trust. When you remove the oil filler cap and its either got water in there or you wipe your finger around and pull out black sludge then the dealer says they're mechanically A1, no thanks... I'm onto my third private seller and after the first two auction reports revealed potential odometer tampering. I have found one who has the papers. Only thing is there's a couple of discrepancies with them. Can you guys wave your eyes over these and tell me if they smell like bullshit... The auction report I received... Note the white square above the vehicle marking section. pretty sure that is where the Vin number should be. Also no date so a bit strange The export certificate I received... This one has the correct VIN but the section where the mileage is is out of the watermark a 1 could have been easily coloured in. My main question with this is seeing how the writing is equally spaced, should the rows showing kms be shifted one symbol to the left if it really did have less than 100,000 kms??? I could only scan the first QR code and it came up with the 16 digit number at the top of the document which would probably be the document number. Compared to the mileage from this sample document on prestige motorsport note where the kms start Thanks in advance Cheers Rick

Thanks for everyones input... I had a look this afternoon and ive got the components on the shelf at work so it wont really cost me a cent to try... I understand about the compression ratios, cams, ECU maps ect being set up for a factory turbo setting. I guess ill give it a crack and see how it goes over full tank of city driving and the best thing will be if you want to give the car a boot here or there it would simply be the flick of a switch and up goes the boost... Cheers

Sorry my bad your correct otherwise it will over pressurise and could not regulate ... i think it slightly built up boost the first time it was on and then with the check valve configured correctly it held pressure in the wastegate from then... I might give it a try and see how it goes with a full tank of city driving

I would have thought that if your car is off boost the pressure of the air that your engine is using is at atmospheric pressure (or under vacuum close enough). if your car is on boost then the air your engine is using is under pressure... wouldn't this mean to achieve a desireable air/fuel ratio when your car is on boost it must use more fuel... wouldn't this mean there is less air passing through the air flow meter??? a standard rb25 at say 7 psi (.5 bar), needs 1.5 times more air to run at the same revs as one that was running at atmospheric pressure.

Makes sense when its said it this way. the actuator actually opens with vacuum its simple using a 3/2 solenoid valve and a check valve 400 dollars in my first post is a little off the mark... the solenoid valve is about 120 dollars and the check valve is about 50 dollars add your electrical relays, switches a bit of wiring ect. thats all you need. I can get from penrith to jindabyne fully loaded with ski gear, 4 adults and a roof pod and have just under a quarter of a tank left. I have tried it out driving up and down the street and it works a treat... all I am worried about is getting wrong fuel mixtures and damaging something cause of a bad mixture

G'day I have always thought about the idea of holding the wastegate open on a standard rb25 (or any turbo car for that matter) to see how it affects the fuel economy. Here's my theories- -wastegate open turbo wont make boost -no build up of pressure will be read through boost sensor and therfore adjust fuel mixtures to suit -less pressure = less fuel but is it still at the right mixture??? I have designed a Simple circuit that will do this with the flick of a switch (pneumatics background). My guess is on open roads you wont notice any difference in fuel economy as 95 percent of the time you are off boost anyway. But driving through the city even if you are light on the old pedal it still comes on and off boost fairly often. The only thing I am not clued up on is the detailed workings of the ecu, how it calculates correct fuel delivery and the long term effects of running continuously like this specifically any possible damage to the turbo and engine. for now lets assume its a pretty standard setup i.e. no fuel or turbo mods, standard block and ecu and maybe an exhaust/frontmount (ive got a rb25det neo in a stagea rs4 which is stock standard). Also please dont start with the whole "if you dont like paying fuel bills for a turbo car then buy a friggin hybrid" talk because I dont pay for my fuel so at the end of the day it doesn't bother me a great deal. Honestly its a simple mod that could be done to any stocker in about 2 hours with a switch and everything and would cost under 400 bucks for the whole setup. Thanks in advance Cheers Rick

G'day While driving at highway speed my transmission light comes on and it wont shift into 4th gear. not even in manual shift mode. It only happens when i go on long drives at highway speeds. All i usually do is pull over switch the car off, remove the keys count to 10 turn the car on and im off with no problems. I get the transmission serviced regularly and nothing is ever found out of the ordinary. Anyone experienced this?? it doesnt happen on short trips, only really long ones probably 4 hours plus. And the last thing i want is to be broken down in the middle of nowhere. I know the box doesn't shift into 4th until its reached its operating temperature (5 minutes of driving usually). But could it have something to do with sitting on the one speed and the box not doing much. there is a transmission cooler under the front driver side guard. Perhaps something to to with a thermostat sticking open and the oil is cooling down too much in the 100ks of air that is passing through it. Thats all i can think of. Its not like it happens all the time if it was an electronic fault i would expect it to happen pretty regularly but you just cant tell it might happen within half an hour of each other and then goes fine for the rest of the drive and for next 6 months. Thanks in advance Cheers Rick

All good sorted here is the info i was after

Hi there, In the process of hooking up the oil pressure gague (aftermarket) and the oil alert light on the dash to my engine... i am having trouble getting the oil gague giving me a correct readout... the oil alert light works fine however the gague show that i only get 20 psi... thats too low isn't??? what i was after was the resistance range in which the oil sender is supposed to work... if i can compair that with the resistance specs of my gague (splitfire i think) i should be able to get a resistor with the correct rating and fix up the circuit.. Cheers Rick

woot woot got spotted at first it was a parking ticket or a note from someone saying they opened their door on my car or something... was releived when i seen sau on top

going on your other post if you get a dashmat your automatic lights wont work nless you get that piece of the dashmat open... if you park your car in the sun during the day id suggest to use one of those window visors... much better security wise aswell... and carpet on your dash doesn't look the best in my opinoin

going on your other post if you get a dashmat your automatic lights wont work nless you get that piece of the dashmat open... if you park your car in the sun during the day id suggest to use one of those window visors... much better security wise aswell... and carpet on your dash doesn't look the best in my opinoin

in my stagea the light selector needs on be on the "auto" position which is the first position after off... the sensor is located on the dash in the front right corner its a round dark plastic raised circle... it can be a pain for other drivers if you keep it in auto mode and keep your high beams on, every time you go nder a bridge you'll flash the car infront of you ive been caught out a few times so i just use them like normal...