Jump to content
SAU Community

mjfawke

Members
  • Posts

    169
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

About mjfawke

  • Birthday 11/01/1969

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Location
    North ACT.

Profile Fields

  • Car(s)
    1971 240Z

mjfawke's Achievements

Collaborator

Collaborator (7/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. The bad news is that they are not legal. The JustJap hub-centric (ie. they locate on the wheel hub rather than the bolts) spacers seem to be well made, but if you get roadworthy'd or (worse) are in a crash might regret it. Especially if you crash and your insurance company walks away from you because your car wasn't street legal. Even the brake upgrade could be a pain - legally you need to get an engineers certificate.
  2. I did some research on this after almost getting done a few years ago, so this was for when the cameras were first introduced. The laser speed checker part of the camera's is effective to at least 500m, but in good conditions (ie. NOT through a tinted window) and with a red target car, it can get accurate speed at over 1km. But the camera itself has two lenses, a wide and a telephoto, and has an official range of 100m - but I've talked to someone who reckons they got pinged at close to 150m. And for those who think they were going too fast to be caught... the speed range was +/- 320kph. The only useful bit of info is that the auto focus used to be a bit slow, so it couldn't get a good shot if you were rapidly decelerating... like someone I may know who doing 190kph on the parkway when he saw the van and managed to slow to 90kph (courtesy of Brembo) as he passed them and didn't get done.
  3. Shudder will be from the clutch, and it sounds like you shagged 2'nd gear synchro. It might work better with fresh oil.... might not. If not, better off fixing sooner rather than later, because it will just damage the selector sleeves and cost you even more money. R32 GTST boxes are cheap compared to R33/R34/GTR, so probably the quickest option would be a second-hand box from an importer.
  4. Mate of mine picked up a scratch in the the rear quarter of his R33 GTR when he parked it at work. Decided to get both rear guards resprayed and the bonnet, front bar and front guards to get rid of the scratch and various stone chips. Quoted $2,500 by the recommended repairer of his insurer. Paint run in the left rear quarter, lower front bar not sprayed ("it's not the front bar"), front guards not sprayed at all, poor paintwork on the bonnet (because they DIDNT F**KING PREP IT PROPERLY), overspray around the fuel filler, inner trim panels cracked and put back in with double sided tape, excessive mastic sealant around the quarter windows causing poor fit, charged for new side moulding clips and the side mouldings now fit poorly.
  5. And this relates to forced induction performance in what way?
  6. And have you checked the computer for fault codes yet?
  7. Check the computer for error codes. Idling at 2K is a symptom of the idle switch in the throttle body not working. The 3.5K cut is due to limp home mode, probably AFM.
  8. The 'OP6' would be on the turbine housing, and I don't believe all of them had the VG30DET OP6 housing anyway. I have what is supposed to be an R34 turbo, has the OP6 exhaust but doesn't have the nylon impeller. Go figure....
  9. I run wideband, and the engine stays closed loop (14.7:1) even on light boost. So - shouldn't go straight to rich. I also get ~ 10lt/100km despite caning it, but I am running a 3.7:1 diff and the car only weighs 1090kg.
  10. If it wasn't an over-rev, I'd be betting on a stuck valve due to the guide not being reamed to size after fitting.
  11. Just one thought - rich mixture means cooler exhaust temp therefore less pressure across the turbine. Running it leaner (as in not excessively rich) should bring it on boost earlier.
  12. ... and as I said before, I can hear the noise when free-revving, I just can't work out where it's coming from. And it's not the BOV. As an extra bit of info (left window open, driving alongside retaining wall so I can hear better) , the noise occurs for about 2 seconds in 1'st gear, and about half a second in 2'nd gear. I think at this point, I'm just going to wait for the noise to change before looking further. It doesn't seem to be getting any worse, and it only happens when I abuse the car anyway.
  13. Why? If a Q45 AFM is too small, why are you running a PFC at this stage of tune?
  14. I'm going to say this slowly again, one more time : All... Nissan... boxes... since... at... least... the... 60's... have... had... synchromesh... on... all... forward... gears. For good measure, the GTR also has it on reverse.
×
×
  • Create New...