zebra

I personally havent had a varex muffler...i simply refuse to use any X-force products anymore, they are cheap for a reason. 2 mates have have 2 1/2" dual X-faorce exhausts on V8 commodores, the mufflers fell to bits within 6 months, another mate had a dual stainless 3" exhaist on his VT2 GTS and the welds broke/cracked in two spots. I had an X-force 3" dump on my 33 and had to modify it to fit because none of the flanges lined up and it leaked so I had to re-weld the cat flange. So maybe the Varex is ok (it would want to be for the price) but give it another 18 months and see how the little servo goes with the heat and grime etc. If it lasts well thats good, but I will not use one, I would still rather a propper exhaust rather than relying on a flappy valve thing.

Also use Ny-lock nuts so they dont come loose.

See my quote fron another thread

I don't count cannons as mufflers...rather just an over grown hot dog. Intersted to hear it though

Very sexy car indeed. I Do have a real soft spot for a 250 Lusso or a long nose 275...but good luck ever finding one lol

Ahk fair enough, needs a side on view. If you get a chance flick me the manual or some pics if you have them handy Rich

Ive wanted a Ferrari mondial for a while...but they are the poor mans ferrari (can be had for $30k) or an F40 But meh $30k would buy me a faster car anyway...or a lot of coke and hookers

Does look like its designed to replace the factory main caps

Not trying to start a fight here. But Varex mufflers are the most expensive POS ever...actually same can be said for ANY X-force product. A real muffler and not some made in china pos with a flappy valve thing would have sounded so much better without the need for a centre muffler. Things like Remus/Borla/Hooker/Magnaflow etc are properly designed to flow and quieten rather than just be a tin can with some perforated tube badly welded in the centre. So while some of those brands are expensive (the hooker aerochamber is only $100 bucks) would be cheper than the Varex and would have saved you needing to buy a 2nd muffler. Not bagging you car at all just a tip for young players. Also note the Varex/other flappy exhaust things are illegal as it wasnt fitted OEM

RB30 was export only in passenger cars...I think it was on used in the Patrol's in Japan, but thats it

Pull all the plugs out and see if it cranks over should spin quite easily with no plugs...if it doesnt something is well f**ked internally

Lol cause a RB20E or RB24S or RB30E is heaps race bread.

I dont think he is replacing the manifold studs. BTW use stainless, under the cars is exposed to the weather/heat etc, so mild steel will rust and then be a pain to get off

Hows my car going Brad?

Damn Brad does good work with those cages!! How did you get on with the Motec old man?

For NSW club members only at this stage..pending success/numbers I paln open it up to everyone

Zebra288

OF ALL TIME!

we WILL have both terry

you will still get spark as the cam belt runs the cam gear with attaches to the nose of the crank so it would still be turning. I would pull the cam cover off and have a look

Broken the nose/drive off the exhaust cam?

I love Tc-005s I have a pair of 17x7s in Charcoal Picked them up for 50 bucks from a tyre shop that didnt know what they were lol. and the full race manifold is pure awesome

The way this car looks makes me want a Skyline again. But having been through similar dramas with my R33 (4 engines in 4 years) I'm not so sure lol Top marks!

Personally I feel that the standard 5/16" fuel line is too small for that power, I would be running either 2 3/8" feeds (if you have a twin entry rail) or a single 1/2" and a 5/8" return.

I should add Getting it tuned in sydney and driving it around here would be safer than tune here and fang in sydney....tuning it in thin air will cause it to run lean at sea level unless the corrections are 110% perfect (very had to do with MAP based ECUs) or tuned rich.