zebra

Also just thinking, If these turbos are not pushing much air until 25psi+, than what are they like at part throttle? or before 25psi. Take my stock 1jz for expample, at 4psi it feels like nothing is happening because the turbos aren't pushing much air, once they build 7-8psi it really starts going because they are now coming into their effiecency range and can start pumping some meaningful air into the intake.

I know that, but what I'm trying to say is: (and Im talking about street cars) Say you wanted 280rwkws, would you use a GT-RS and run 2Bar of boost + WMI + Cams and head work, or would you run a GT3037 with a standard head and cams and 16psi? Not everybody can afford a $5K head setup + built bottom end. and E85 isnt availiable everywhere and I sure as hell wouldnt be buying 44Gal drums everytime I needed to fill up. Sure if I could afford option 1 I would do it, but not everybody can or even wants to setup an engine to take big boost. You said yourself that the SR20 went pop because of too much boost, but that was with the 6262 or what ever it was so it is understandable, but for those telling Justin to run 30psi is a bit silly for a stock Rb25.

Might be because he is so quick to blame everything but the products he supplies, im sorry but 0.4:1 comp wont make 20-30rwkws difference, the engine would need maybe 2 degrees more timing to make up the difference, if he was running 7:1 comp than yeah sure it would make a big difference. For all we know the tuner has a low reading dyno or it was a hot day or the cam timing is out, or there is a leak somewhere. There are a million things it could be, but saying that having lower compression will mean that the dyno curve moves to the right is just a bit silly, especially with standard cams, sure off boost it might be a little bit softer, but with a good tuner the difference should be able to be made up with fuel and timing changes. Of course Tao isnt going to say his turbo is at fault, because he builds/sells them. *waits for all the fan boys*

Heat, Lots of boost means lots of heat, why have a small turbo and have to ring its neck to get the power you want, when you could run a larger turbo at less boost and less stress on everything, I wouldve thought the 5557 would make more than 250kw at that boost.

FE motor or 385 Series? Edit - Nvm just read 460 crank

I read the thread, OP says its running 16psi, It isnt. You wouldnt care if its valve floating?!?!?! I would certainly care if a valve seat cracked and fell out, or a head broke off the valve stem.

The valves have to close against the pressure in the intake ports, the more pressure in them the harder it is for the valves to close, hence valve float, also depends on how hard he is revving it. Power has very little to do with valve float. But the dyno chart has no big dip in the power to suggest valve float, but boost does bleed off to 13-14psi like 99% of Hypergear turbos.

You are just about asking the impossible, a Hard compound tyre, that has good grip in the wet and will handle 300rwkws in the wet for under $2k? If you are changing tyres every 12 months I would be looking at your wheel alignment. Toyo T1Rs have a stupidly soft compound, 595SS' are a pretty horrid tyre (they are cheap for a reason) I would have a look at some continetials or the higher end comfort Bridgestones

One gripe I have, and I noticed its being worked on, is when opening image attachments it opens on the same window instead of a new tab or window, ive lost count of how many times ive "closed the photo" only to remember that I had to click back instead of closing the Tab or window. Also, where are out little NSW/VIC/QLD members tags? No doubt you havent forgotten but yeah, I like my little blue tag hahaha

That doesnt sound like a very exciting cruise?! 110km/h up the federal for an hour and done. More details needed I think

They are moving to Suzuki Swifts for next year from what I hear, No where near as cool as the Minis lol

Lol @ Pedders! Just undo the 4 nuts, stick strut bar on and do it up! To be honest a strut bar does sweet fa on a skyline, you are better off with a caster rod brace imo. Ive done track days both with an without the strut brace on the same suspension and didn't notice any difference.

Hhhah fair enough

HAHAHAHHAHA, Now I know you have nfi about tuning, Methanol cars need to be fkn rich to make power. running lean or even Gasoline AFR's on methanol will make less power than Unleaded, might not ping, but wont make any power.

Yeah A340E, comes, in Cressidas, Chasers, Soarers, Supras, MKII's, Celsiors, basically anything 6cylinder or V8 RWD Toyotas.

Even a 15 year old PFC have cylinder trims, not many ECUs I know Dont have it. Shanes 1.5JZ is hardly a street strip car either. I dont hate wolf, the Soarer guys love them (but most of them are clueless lol) But there are better options out there imo. features or no features.

I have a Cressida here not doing much apart from giving me evil JDM drift hack ideas everytime I drive it lol

hehhe I think I know what it is *touches nose*

If I had room I would grab it, they can be a very quick little track car. What would you ben wanting to swap for?

mmm inverted shock goodness!!!

Oh and since when has batch fire injection really been that bad? my 1jz has it from factory, and its smoother and gets better ecomomy than an RB I have seen.

^^ Thats all very well...but that would be what 0.5% of ECU's would need those functions. So what car needs 11ty funtions like a staged 400hp N2O setup, or 20 different boost levels? The average club level circuit car....nup Street/Strip.....nup Pure street....nup Race boats....nup Champ car/ALMS prototypes...maybe....but how many of those use Wolf? This is why the cheaper ECU's eg Haltech, Link, EMS, AEM etc etc dont have these features. I would rather have an ECU that can pick up the factory crank trigger over somthing that has a million features but struggles with the Nissan Optical Se./nsor. Sure If I were building a mega budget endurance racer so I could win Le Mans than sure I would want those features.....but would I pick Wolf over a Pectrel T-6, Motec M800 etc.....Well no.

I mean straight Nitro Methane ( I.e Top Fuel, and Nitro Funny Cars)

Lol at using nitro methane in a street car. how did that go for you?

I 100% agree that It will be better for a circuit or street engine, I think most people buying them will be all "omg I could heaps spool 2x T51R-Spl turbos at 3000rpm" and make 5000hp. If I were building a solid RB street/track engine I would go for one of these for sure. But With out seeing long term high rpm use without the fancy pants girdle I will remain a non fan boy of the setup, but will wait with open eyes and ears for independent results of these kits.