zebra

what cars are they, i think it was mentioned in here somewhere but I cant find it

S NISMO GT-R LM Road Going Version ‘95 that what you after nick?

Weny back throught the list and found some cool cars P/S Chevrolet Camaro Z28 ‘69 S Chevrolet Chevelle SS 454 ‘70 P Dodge Challenger R/T ‘70 S Dodge Charger Super Bee 426 Hemi ‘71 P Ferrari 330 P4 Race Car ‘67 P Ford Mustang Mach 1 ‘71 S Ford RS200 ‘84 HKS CT230R ‘08 S Jaguar XJ220 LM Race Car S Lamborghini Countach LP400 ‘74 S Lotus Carlton ‘90 S Lotus Esprit V8 SE ‘98 P McLaren F1 ‘94 S Mercury Cougar XR-7 ‘67 S Nissan BLUEBIRD Hardtop 1800SSS (910) ‘79 Pagani Zonda R ‘09 S Renault 5 Maxi Turbo Rally Car ‘85 S Toyota ARISTO 3.0V ‘91 S Toyota SOARER 2.5GT-T ‘97 P Volkswagen Schwimmwagen typ166 ‘42 So the list isnt too bad i Guess

turn ign on but dont start he car, and turn the tps until it reads zero on consult. Then get a big phillips head screw drivers and adjust the IAC screw until the idle settles down. Then do an ECU reset (disconect the battery) and you should be good to go

Dont pay 230 for a walfail! If you want one, plenty of places sell them for around 150 bucks

Tell you what though, I am rather looking forward to punting an 850hp Nascar around the burgerring....

yet they fill it with range rovers and 3ton Merc limos

A 6-point bolt on bond cage is cheaper than a cusco cage anyway...and safer

I sure hope you are right Eps lol

If you want to mod either of them then dont buy one imo I'll assume you are a P-plater, If you want to buy one than go the S15. BUT leave it stock and buy a Turbo 34 or S15 later to play with. Neither car in NA form is a rocket and they do not give good gains per $ spent on mods

I would be just finding a new block, will be cheaper than machining the girdle, and then line boring it, plus if the crank has given the block a good whack it may have cracked it. You shouldnt need new sqirters, just take them out and clean the hell out of them.

Yep I think you are right about the little effort, the list looks like it carried over from GT4 and they have just added a dashboard and a steering wheel. Like I said before I am rather dissapointed at the depth of cars....Where are the older cars???? They are using the VY commodores but not the VE, same with the falcon, why do they still have the AU supercar, sure it might be hard to get their hands on a new one to model but how long have we been waiting for this game? By the looks of the tracks and cars list they couldve released this game years ago.

I have 2 externals, 1 works on the ps3 (its faily old) and my new 1tb doesnt work.

Ahk gotya sounds like it needed a fiddle with the tune then.

I thought about going to have a look...but then it rained lol

Sooooo... You put a bigger cam in and you lost some bottom end....funny that.

Well done guys

Just because the engine was carburetted doesnt mean it had a heap of valve overlap..... The reason the cars "seem" to loose power is because they generally run lean after freeing up the exhaust and need the tune touched up. The more efficiant the the motor the more power it will make and that includes the tune A motor WILL NOT loose power if it becomes more efficient. Period.

Sounding and performing are 2 very different things

WTF NO THEY DONT!!!!!@@!@!! Ever noticed NA drag cars with NO exhaust, or a F1 car....do you see them with 2.5" exhausts on them because they're 2.4L. The back pressure thing is an old wives tale and I am sick to fkn death of hearing people go on an on about it and telling others that they need pea shooter exhausts on the car. The only exhaust tuning is done with the primary pipes (eg the headers and the shape of the collector) the part after that just carries the gasses out the back of the car and gives somewhere to put some mufflers.

Whats in the motor and what 5 speed?

One thing to note on Point #4, straight water is the best for cooling, it absorbes and transfers heat better than a mix of water and glycol. The more "radiator fluid" you add the less efficient the cooling system is, but it means the boiling point is higher and resists corrosion.

Pretty much hit the nail on the head there Terry

I think that if you can find a mechanic/engine builder than you can work with and throw ideas around, it shows intelligence on their behalf if they can suggest alternate parts to what you request AND explain why you need them, but they have to be happy if you dont want the extra expense involved etc. Eg My machinist/engine builder told me that I will really need to run roller rockers on my Cleveland heads, but was happy enough when I said the cost of the machine work required isnt really worth it when for not much $$$ I could buy a set of aftermarket heads already set up to run 7/16" studs for the rollers, Same again with getting real stuck into the ports. I have found GOOD "engine builders" much easier to work with the the local performance workshop, because and Engine builder does one thing, Builds engines. So he isnt a jack of all trades, master of none. I had an engine built by a "performance workshop" In melbourne, and I rekon blind freddy could have done a better job.

Bathurst is loved internationally, remember the group A days where heaps of international teams turned up, It was part of the World Group A touring car championship