zebra

DCIEVE - you make a good point, but now we are talking about gearing (mechanical advantage) rather than the power/torque and engine produces. take vehicle a an XB Falcon sedan using a 351cube v8 making say 350hp and having a 1:1 top gear, this is good enough to push that car to a low 12sec pass on the strip using 4.11:1 diff gears with a 3 speed auto. Now change those diff gears to 2.75:1 the car will now run 14s down the strip because the engine cant get up into the revs fast enough in order to use the most power productive rpm range. now same car that has 250hp and a low peak power rpm but has masses or torque between 1500-3000rpm now using 4.11:1 diff gears the 250hp car will shoot straight past its peak torque and will not accelerate any where near as quick as the 350hp at high rpm. Now change those gears back to 2.75:1 and the 250hp car will blow the doors off the 350hp car until the 350hp car can get up in the revs where it will start reeling the 250hp car in. hope that makes sense and the thought of a 5.8L pushrod dinosaur v8 doesnt send you into a rage lol

That is the whole point of acceleration though, like I have said earlier, we are limited to 5 or 6 gears, so we will never always be at peak power, having more torque (and therefore power) at low rpm means the engine can accelerate the car to its peak power quicker. Edit - from a standing start, as I have said before, the car needs the grunt to accelerate the car. So I'll will go back to my F1 engine point, while it would be very fast if you could keep it at high revs, it would be massivly slow in a 1700kg car tying to get it to those revs, having massively short gearing would help as Jarrod said above, but as soon as the revs dropped out of the power band in a full weight car, the thing would labour like crazy and more than likely stall.

One thing I have noticed between RB's and JZ's is that the JZs always seem to require a few more (2-3) psi to make the same power (with stock intake manifolds) and identical turbos. Now whether that is to do with the standard intake plenums or the intake ports or the factory cams, I am not sure, but I notice it all the time, mainly when comparing 1JZ's to RB25s, I know that JZ's really wake up with aftermarket cams, so that would be my guess.

My vote would be to go HKS, however i have not had either turbo, but from what I have seen and heard the GT-RS is more progressive through the midrange where the Hi-flow is a little on on off. Having said that I have no doubt either would bring a smile to your dial.

I love how it looks dead stock but is hiding 3L and the engine numbers match

Yeah coils and the turbo got a nylon compressor wheel, different CAS too, so the cams arent interchangeable

S1.5 has the S2 motor, a different wing, and a couple of other things as said above

Rolls - your on paper explanation works, but Torque is the instantaneous force on the drive wheels, the more torque you have acting on those drive wheels the faster they will be rotated. Thus accelerating the vehicle. Comes down to gearing as well I know. Think of your throwing bricks example - Say all you can throw is a 1KG brick with the amount of torque your arm produces, now double that torque but keep the brick at 1KG, the brick will fly faster and further.

It probably feels faster because there is even less bottom end then the Rb20 is(isnt) blessed with, so it probably takes off after 4000rpm, but is slower before then.

Thats what i thought the 1st time, google lied to me the bastards lol, its good but, like 2mins from my house

6-Boost and 38mm gate sold

Lol Oops! Oh has anyone else seen the Mint Green POS 33 getting around with half a veilside wing

Amen!

Oh and Troy is Lanyon Service centre the one near the BP on Tharwa Dr? Gotta rego the Soarer in a week or so Edit - found them, they are in tuggers

Just how I read it The wing lights are LED's yeah?

ACL are in Liquidation, so stocks are pretty much Zero on things, the extra clearance will help if you want to rev it fairly hard or want to run big power, (if its a 26/30 than I assume you want a fair whack of grunt)

Any links on the mocal one Rich?

Save the money on cams and get a tune, much better $/HP ration there.

Would trying a 1.06a/r turbine housing be an option?

Fix the box yet? I have a leaky oil seal on one of my turbos

Well going to a 1JZ instantly saves you 1300+ bucks on buying an RB oil pump that wont break the 1st time you hit the limiter. 1JZ rods are just as strong, if not stronger than RB26 rods, and the pistons look like they were carved from the amour of an Abrams tank

SHAME SHAME SHAME

it flares to 3200rpm on the road anyway, the factory stalls are quite loose in these on the brake I can get 2400-2500rpm. I dont like big stallies on street cars, makes them annoying to drive to work with.

Yes it does, has a small patch loom that goes from the microtech to the standard 76pin ECU plug

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Le...40&start=40 heap of info on both in here mate