sumoftheparts

Closer photo of the R33 air intake bit.

Still have everything, will accept offers if you pay postage.

R33 Carbon Fibre Door Sill Guards. Never used, good condition. $300 + postage. R33 air intake bit - NFI where it is from exactly but I believe it was removed to fit a pod filter. $20 + postage. Nissan Consult diagnostic tool. Unable to test if it still works. Free + postage. Will post or you can pickup in Wollongong. Items may also be listed elsewhere. PM with any questions.

For sale is a Nissan Skyline GTS25T Series II (1997) Located in Wollongong, NSW. Has 98xxx kms on the clock. Rego until March 2011. Second owner since compliance. I purchased this car in February 2010 from a fellow SAU member. Since then I have done about 10000kms. Oil has been changed every ~5000kms. New timing belt/tensioner/idler/water pump done when car was imported at 55xxxkm in 2007. 4x new Federal 595-SS recently put on the car. Upgrades are: • Full Factor Mspec body kit • GTR carbon fibre rear wing • Apexi Pod filter • Defi boost gauge with Mearcat pod • Nolathane strut brace • Bilstine/whiteline suspension upgrade inc. F/R camber adjustment (sydneykid kit) • HICAS lock bar • HKS EVC electronic boost controller • HKS split dump pipe • HKS front pipe • HKS Super Dragger exhaust • Hi-flow metal cat • R34 GT-T side mount cooler (duct included) • Nismo shift knob • Pioneer head unit (DEHP9850BT)/Jaycar splits/Jaycar 3way speakers and 4 channel amp • B-pillar floor brace • Australian Standards compliant alarm system Interior is in immaculate condition. Paintwork is good with no dents or rust. A few minor scratches and stone chips as to be expected of a car this age. Screenshot from Nissan FAST is provided. Any inspection is welcome. Call, email or text for more details or extra photos. Please, no trades. $11500 Contact Rowan on 0402 658030 or email rowan _at_ guardiansd.com Pictures:

I did this today. My coilpacks visually look fine, but my head tells a different story. There are visible "lines" on the head at around the level of the joints of the coilpacks' plastic moulding. My theory is that this has been caused by the spark jumping from the coilpacks to the head. Over years this has led to the head pitting and causing the lines you can see in the photo. I'd be very interested to see if anyone else notices this on their head. Circled: Pitting in the head Different sides & different coil packs:

Did this today and the hardest part was getting the plastic cover back on... I thought I might have to remove the strut brace but there's plenty of access and just enough room to get the intake pipe off.

Thanks for this, did it today and it seemed to fix my problem of stalling under braking.

Coolants that meet Australian Standard 2108-2004 fall into two different categories, Type A and Type B. You will find the type of coolant printed on the bottle. The main difference between the two is: Type A engine coolant contains antifreeze/antiboil coolant with corrosion inhibitor, while Type B engine coolant contains corrosion inhibitor only. In other words, Type B contains no glycol (antifreeze). This info is straight from the standard which I have in front of me. Type B is the stuff you will often see labeled "for pre-1984 vehicles only". Type A will have a higher boiling point and lower freezing point due to the glycol. Note that there is no requirement for the premix Type A stuff to have a certain glycol level. This is for the manufacturer to determine. There are other requirements to meet the standard such as pH, glassware corrosion levels, coolant hose immersion test, etc. One of the ones you can test yourself is foaming. If you shake the bottle of coolant, any foam that forms should disappear within 5 seconds. I don't want to make recommendations because everyone's situation is different, but any Type A coolant with a glycol level of 33% is 'probably' going to be fine for normal street use in typical Australian conditions. I wouldn't run the Type B stuff because of the lack of boiling protection, especially if you like to give the car a good thrashing. Nulon are fairly transparent about their product, which I like. You can see a comparison of their coolant's test results and the relevant standard here (click on specifications in the link): http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Long_Life...trated_Coolant/ Some people swear by the genuine Nissan stuff, others swear by Toyota coolant. Or perhaps you have an aluminium radiator and run the red stuff. Do your own research and decide what's best for your Skyline.

Vic rego?

Why is the boot lid a different colour?

Where are you located?