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mongor

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Everything posted by mongor

  1. yeh just re drill and tap the hole man dont risk droppin valves eh... boss lookin car though ; )
  2. them P1's look so mint, not sure about the over spray on the exhaust though ahah
  3. have you unbolted the exhaust from the dump pipe? or try slightly jacking up the front of your engine the engine mounts should flex enough to clear the floor pan. p.s im naked whilst typing this =)
  4. mick from ovaboost performance suggested i ran Hyundai Sonata coils in my ceff, so i got them through coventrys, from what i remember they were $200 all up.. mounted them on the fire wall and ran plug leads into the head and onto the spark plugs, he was telling me he ran 1mm plug gap with around 20pound of boost and the spark wasnt affected at all. I havent had any trouble with them and ive done around 5000kms using them, it also makes life alot easier testing a cylinder if its running shite. V6 Hyundai Sonata coils are cool
  5. hey all, had this problem on my 180 and my cefiro... annoying as hell in summer, there is a thin metal actuator that dirests the flow of air either through your a/c evaporator or through your heater core, as the HVAC system pulls air from outside the car, it seems mine had pulled in some moisture and corroded this thin metal air control vent therefore constantly blowing hot air through the rusted out portion of my heater box. i only found this due to puttin a custom wiring harness to suit my stinger ecu. probly not gonna be the same prob on all cars especially the new ones but thats what did it to my cars
  6. haha yeh word to that! i took so much time drilling and tapping my block and when i had finished, the tensioner had like a 0.2mm gap on one side wich made me freak out thinking my timing belt would jump straight off and drop valves... so i put a 3/8 deep reach socket over the stud ( once it was sealed in the block) and gently tapped it until it was straight. The ceff has done about 5000 k's now and it hasn't gone bang yet! : )
  7. thanks mate, nah i moved 2 hours away from my computer that has all the pics of it, the paint has a few runs it was my first attempt at painting.. il head home this weekend and try get some more.
  8. here is my car.. its not too "tuff" but i think its alright, engine is a dirty 30 with all the usuals, high mount, ext gate, EMS etc... paint cost me 30 bucks from work : ) it used to be 5 shades of white
  9. version 4 mate.. all injectors have power to them aswell, got a mate with the same stinger we are gonna load my map onto his ecu and see if his car fires the injectors, if so then id say its a problem in my wiring harness
  10. cheers.. its a atmo 25 head sorry, so same injectors as the 20 side feed ones i was thinkin bad earth considering they are earth return setup but not too sure where to start lookin
  11. hey all got a problem with injectors not firing, engine is RB30det(25 head) with gtr injectors and EMS stinger ecu they are banked in firing order but only 1 and 6 are firing with the CAS out twisting the spline. all plugs are firing. wondering what could be the problem if anybody has had this some info would be kick ass cheers
  12. mates cheers.. someone at work suggested this today aswell. thanks for the input really appreciate it
  13. hello friends... bit of a stab in the dark here, did a search but didnt really help built a rb30 with 25 n/a head, threw in a twin plate os giken clutch with a os giken flywheel... started her up the other day and the stock rb20 starter motor wouldnt grip the teeth on the flywheel causing a horrific noise wich i thought was a H beam being thrown out of my block... sooooooo i fitted the stock rb30 (vl commodore) starter motor, it cranks ok but still skips every now and then with all that crap out the way my question is has anyone had to engineer a new cog to the starter to suit the gear teeth of their flywheel?? or should i just poke around and find something that fits the grooves nicely then try adapting it to the 30 starter motor? if someone could shed some experience on this i will buy them a beer or something. good chat, cheers!!
  14. yerp u are right mate cheers for the info..... some top blokes in funbury helped me out with the parts... someone should add this to the substitute list
  15. hey ya'all i did a search so dont yell at me... got a bent rh castor/radius rod bracket on my car.. as its not in the compatability list i dunno wat will fit... s13 is no go too short on the mounting holes that go into the chassis help a brother out cheers
  16. if you cant be bothered taking off the power steering belt to get access just cut the a/c belt, unless u are taking it off to sell... then i wouldnt cut it. also if its still gassed, and u rupture a seal it mite squirt in your eye and it will freeze your sweet sweet eye juices
  17. hey sky180... how much u want for the 2-way if u get a viscious replacement? assuming u own a cefiro that is
  18. hey mate... how is the roof on this car? i need it from the bottom of the A pillar bottom of B pillar and top of C pillar no dents colour doesnt matter.. cheers mate
  19. hey all... i am attempting the roof swap of a skyline that has been rolled over, have consulted a couple of panel beaters who say its not that hard to do if done properly so im chasing a R32 roof, windscreen and front left gaurd colour does not matter i can come chop the roof off if its in good condition. I am hoping to find a rolling shell with rear end damage so i can get the parts as a package anywhere around perth would be good as the car is in bunbury thanks chaps B)
  20. haha that bottom pic is my car! the fact that its in 2 pieces is so postage will cost less
  21. hey all im currently in the process of building a new inlet plenum for my cefiro RB20.. i need some dimensions on plenum size, capacity, trumpet lengths and the taper for the last 2 cylinders i have done alot of searching but nobody has posted the specs of their succsessfuly fabricated chambers and the flows etc. any feedback appreciated, i know this topic has been covered numerous times thanks
  22. cheers mate i didnt check this befroe starting this mornin and ripped out the window-motor and guide rail for fear of scratching my pecious window tint.. but soon realised that didnt have to be done much easier job than i thought it was goin to be hey, my mom could maybe even handle it! cheers amigo's
  23. heeeeerrrrooooo i need to remove the windows from the doors of my car... should the glass be removed from the window mechanism or can the whole thing be removed in one peice>>? i have to do this tomorow so any help would be ace! cheeeeers.
  24. hello chappies this is my ceff! engine: RB20det factory turbo converted to manual in japan 5 speed 3" exhaust stainless cat back 600x300x76mm front mount cooler blitz bov dualstage boost controller bosch 910 pump waiting on ecu and manifold to bolt up T3 turbo and external gate gtr injectors k&n pod driveline: after market clutch unknown as yet r200 diff.. needs new carrier bearings solid rear cradle uras pinapples suspension: cusco front coil overs height and camber adjust rear jic height adjustable front +rear strut braces interior: fixed drivers side bucket seat r32 gt-r passenger seat nardi steering wheel budget egg/ turbotimer greddy boost gauge amori oil pressure shortened gear stick radar detector exterior: 17"x7 forged volks on front 16"x8 3 peice enkei dished rims on back after market fibreglass rear bar demolished fibreglass front bar so stock one on for now! 10 grade window tint wheel spacers all round medium sized side skirts 3 different shades of white paintwork square later model headlights no stickers!! hope picture works its with different rims and a patched up front bar! chicaaaaaneee.mpg chicaaaaaneee.mpg
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