Jenius

Update so far is that I pulled out the cluster this morning and decided to test the sensitivity of the speedo using a small screwdriver and found it was already jumping up to read around 70km/h with just a few light turns. Is this normal?

Won't be too hard to for me to find a spare cluster somewhere to test in this case. Have reached that speed a few times but I don't think its been the case of it getting stuck there. It's like the gauge is super sensitive so whenever I'm starting from 0-60km/h it jumps up really quickly from 0-170km/h.. Yes it is only the speedo bit, everything else is working fine on my dash. I'm assuming the speedo is a traditional one just reading off the cable without any special stepping motor electronics in there?

It tends to sit at 170 in this case and occasionally it will bounce around a little. Also the display speeds tend to vary a fair bit. One day it'll show me I'm doing 140 and the next day it will go completely off the clock even though I'm doing the same speeds. I think I will look into replacing the cable in this case. It would have also knocked my odometer out with a higher reading too. :-( Thanks

BNR32 Speedo showing exaggerated speed Having an issue where my Speedo is showing that I'm going a lot faster than I'm actually going. For example if I'm doing around 70km/h it will read that I'm doing about 170km/h or sometimes it will read completely off the clock. This issue has been around for a while now where it was initially happening maybe 60% of the time and it is now occurring around 98% of the time. I've been having to rely on my PowerFC hand controller ever since.... Checked the Speedo cable at both ends and they appear to be fine and since it is clearly spinning still I'm wondering if there was something up with the actual dash cluster? I'm looking to replace it with another dash cluster for a test but could this issue relate more with the cable itself? Thanks!

I'm having the exact same issue here as well and summer is coming up... Thanks I'll have a read too.

Manifold leak I'm still investigating as it seems to run ok 90% of the time. Since its been getting warmer recently I've noticed it happening more often and I can sort of replicate it if I deliberately try to stall it where it will take over and try to keep the revs up. It will then start 'hunting' for up to 10-15 minutes afterwards. Cruising along at constant speed it will feel erratic during that time. I'm starting to count on the AFM's needing replacement in this case.

Thanks for the suggestions there. I'll go down the CONSULT route for now and see what its telling me first. Sparkplugs I'm running are just NGK Platinums but I don't remember the gapping of it. But they are almost 2 years old now so may need to pull them and check. I changed the coilpacks a few years ago to Splitfires so I somehow doubt that would be it. :-/ Can't hear any hissing or vacuum leaks so far but will check further there but I haven't tried the WD40 with the intake manifold yet but if RPM rises for a bit is that a good sign?

I've been reading through a bunch of threads with similar issues yet nothing that directly relates so far. If have a BNR32 GT-R and it's been a long cold winter here in Melbourne and the car felt like it was running fine and smooth the whole time. As there's been few warm days recently its been causing the car the run with rough idles and almost stalling at times. It will only happen if its on a warm day of more than 20 degrees. I've also noticed that the engine check light will flash at times and then be ok again but other than that car will boost ok and give off consistent power. So far I've read that it could be one of the vacuum lines in the plenum or the timing itself. My guess is that it could be the AFM's or sparkplugs. I am running stock AFM's with an ARC Airbox. I also took it to be Dyno tested to see if the issue could be replicated but they found nothing aside from it running slightly hotter than usual after load. I am running an aftermarket radiator as well. However it was fairly cold day so it may have been easily spotted. Was wondering if anyone else has had experiences with this and any suggestions would be appreciated!

These are nice quality wheels and Gerz won't stuff you around and the price is extremely reasonable. You just can't seem to have enough rims do you buddy? lol.

Nice rims! You change your mind again Gerald? Good luck with the sale!

Cool thanks for that guys. I figured that would've been it too. And your right it was mainly happening in 5th gear. Its also tempted me to pick up a short shifter now.

Hi, I have a BNR32 GTR and I was wondering if anyone has seen this before. For the past year of driving. I've noticed after driving on the highway for a little while, a light/medium amount of smoke/vapor starts pouring out of my gearbox boot. It's completely odourless and I've been worried it might be a seal or that the gearbox is on its way out. There's nothing wrong with the gearbox in terms of feel and it shifts just fine. But it tends to worry the passengers as it appears something is burning lol. I am having issues with my speedo at the moment where it occasionally shows exaggerated speeds. So I'm wondering if this relates.

Rims are now Sold!! Thankyou

These are back up for sale. Price drop: $2000 for the whole lot. $1600 without Tires. Have pics now.

These have now been sold pending payment.

These have now been sold. Pending Payment.

Its really an EOI at the moment. I have a set of R34 GTR wheels on my car which I'm kind of over at the moment. Looking for a change but haven't found a set as wanting something new. Basically I am considering to sell a set of 18x9 inch R34 GTR wheels only. Offset is +30 I also have tyres on them. Also considering to sell these with it if I find the right wheels and tyre's in the meantime. Tyres: Hankook V12 255/35 R18. these are 1 year old. done 15,000k's. about 70% tread left. Excellent tyre for Wet and Dry conditions. Condition: Generally good with some gutter rash marks. Price: $1700 ONO without tyres. $2300 ONO with tyres. Located in Melbourne, Western Suburbs. Pickup is preferred. Feel free to PM me during the day as I'm always online at work.

Found the fix for this. The Hicas light is also a Power Steering warning light. So checked the Power steering pump reservoir. (located between the Airbox and the suspension tower in the R32) and it was almost empty. So just refilled with ATX (Auto transmission) fluid. All running well now. Just need to check steering rack now as it could be leaking as the result. 8-/

Any takers? Price drop to $600.

Sorry no hubs. Just the Calipers, Rotors and Pads.

I still have these. Offers considered.

I had my R32 GTS-t for about 5 years and it served me pretty well. I gave it slightly more frequent than usual servicing which kept in top condition. It was well modded and I tracked it at least 3-4 times a year but it was also a daily car for me and I'm normally a very sedate driver. It never really gave me any grief aside from the usual RB engine hassles like the Coil-packs failing and the turbo manifold gaskets and bolts breaking. I would also say the suspension arm bushes given that the car has double wishbone suspension all around they need to be replaced as mine started to rattle quite a bit and affect camber during cornering. But those are really things from wear and tear due to its age. Those items mentioned above you'll only have to do like once every 6-8 years depending on how you drive it. But like everyone else says it is basically a money pit and now that I've moved to a GTR. In comparance I kinda miss the simplicity of the GTS-t. Both cars are really reliable though. But I'd say the GTS-t was cheaper and easier to fix.

I'm guessing some of you have had a similar issue here. But my HICAS light has started to light up during a cold start and basically stays on for about 5mins. Interestingly it also tends to flick on when I do left turns it certain speeds and I can feel the steering to be a little less responsive during these left hand encounters. Could this be a sensor that's been knocked out? I've also read somewhere that for R32's the HICAS needs fluid replacement as they are hydraulic rather than electrically actuated.

I have a full set of BNR32 GTR Brakes (Front and Rear) - Standard GTR Sumitomo Calipers (These were painted in back in Japan in a glossy black and don't have the 'Nissan' wording on it) - OEM-type Pads (Unknown brand but they are about 70-80% and have only done about 10,000km's) - Standard Rotors (In good condition. Machined back in mid January 2010) asking for $650 for the set. I am located in Melbourne, Western suburbs. Pickup is preferable. Feel free to PM me as I can respond fairly quickly as I'm on the PC during the day.

I'm interested. You have a PM!