Kaido_RR

how much do you want to spend? what mods do you currently have? why did ur stock turbo die? too much boost?

lol @ auto elec to fix the problem. its like 2 wires not hard to fix yourself. and if there is no wires, just grab the power wire from the deck and the ground from the deck and hook it up , not hard

that is about correct, did it inc the cost of installing the exhaust? because you already have a cat-back your better off just buying a front pipe and dump pipe as it will be alot cheaper (the cat-back section is the most $$ part of the exhaust) here are few examples of what you could get and the cost I just had a quick look and found those 2 items; but there is alot more stuff out their if you take the time to look. most of it can be bought from over-east and will be cheaper than buying it from a shop in W.A.

+1 r32 is lighter than the r33/34 so you dont need as much power i ran 13.0 with 300ish rwhp (top end speed was good for a mid 12's 112mph) so my advice would start at 250rwhp and see where that takes you, remember practice makes perfect and dont expect to be super fast at the drags your 1st time edit: beaten by mitchy_

if you get a aftermarket fuel pump no point in getting a fuel reg aswell unless your stock one is stuffed.

if you have put redline diff oil in then this could be your problem, the oil is too thin for the kaaz diff and results it becoming very noisy; when did it start making the noises?

the rb25 turbo should get you close to that, and is the best price turbo to get you around that power ($200-$500), or else you could look at something like a hks gt2510 or gt2530 give this topic a read http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...no-t103095.html mods + power for rb20det should give u a fair idea what you can make with that mods

how much power do you want? - Finish exhaust (dump pipe and front pipe) + remove cat or buy highflow cat - FMIC kit - safc or similar (depends how much u want to spend, cheap go piggyback aka safc, lots go full aftermarket $$$ or ROM-tune of stock ecu) - fuel pump (really only needed if yours is old and not working the best) - Rb25 turbo then retune, the rb25 turbo will give you relatively good power without too much lag. to reduce cost fit the items yourself, to help keep cost down you can buy china brand fmic, exhaust parts the difference between china and brand name is relatively small in those parts enjoy and drive safe

what diff oil are you using?

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Rays: Daytona Racing Nuts 17mm so they rub and they only weight 40g

depends on a few things; like how you drive you are. don't think there is much point in spending $200 on oil when you just drive the car normal and its not pushing much power. I use Motul 300v Chrono cost me around $200 per oil change, and i will only use nissan filters or trust/hks items (that is if im not lazy and buy them before hand) i did use to run mobile 1 full-synthetic and did not have any dramas. again really just depends how much you want to spend. FYI Ferrari use Shell oil, Jag & Aston Martins use castrol, Nismo uses motul oil (badge as nismo motul oil)

same same hehehe

Hey, i just got myself a psp and wondering how do i go about hacking it?

they have the reflectors so they are legal

half the stuff in the kit is useless. you don't need the TPS adopter the stock one will fit fine with washer. i didn't use the blitz acc value adopter i made my own as the kit is made for the r34 gt-t

2 of those water lines are for the throttle body. if you look at the throttle body at the top there are 2 outlets which you have nothing connect too atm. basically they are used to keep the throttle body cool. what you can do is connect the 2 hoses together and not run them to the throttle body or else pull them out get some longer ones and connect them to the throttle body. the plug is for the ACC value, and it should be somewhere at the back of ur engine bay. the 3rd water line (the one at the bottom to the left) im pretty sure you can just block it off and is not needed.

+0.20ms mine idle was alittle ruff but never super lumpy. might if you reset the pfc you might need to do redo the idle setup (10mins with aircon off, 10min with aircon on etc)

chi, if i remember right i had them set at 60% and 20ms. if the car isn't cranking as mention you might have foul the fuels. What is the idle like? are the revs lumpy or does the idle sound alittle ruff?

yes but the gtr boot has extra holes for the gtr wing

can't change wheels; if i remember right once you get to A class or something you can start tuning the car (just increase the power, decreasing the weight, changing suspension setup and changing gear ratio) can't answer the question about the R35 GTR maybe its just your driving style

not tring to be an asshole but i dont think you can blame the road condition, tyre pressure... maybe you were going alittle too fast for the corner. good news is the damage doesn't look too bad and as you said lesson learn

can confirm it is not andrew; his car has r34 front and is not rego.

i ran d2 in my r33 (track-spec ones); the only thing i have them to compare to are my current setup tein type RS; and as you can guess the tein are miles ahead of the d2 in everyway. having said that i found the d2 to be a good entry level coilover for the track (i did drift and few mc days) but they very bumpy on the street, i find the type rs to be less bumpy then the d2 (if i remember right my d2 had some crazy spring rate like 14/16)

sorry i through you talking about stock brake setup. But there are deals out there for between 3.5k and 4.5k + shipping AP racing 6-pot 354mm disc (fronts only) Brembo F40/F50 kit 340mm disc (front only) Greddy/Alcon 6-pot 354mm (front only) Even with the poor yen good deals can still be found, but i would advise at tring to find disc locally as they can be heavy and do increase the shipping by afair amount. There are alot of options out their so i guess it comes down to if you want to buy a bolt-on kit or just buy the caliper and then get your own dog-bones made up