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About Cecam

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    Rank: RB25DE
  • Birthday 02/23/1978

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  1. I really don't like Ganadors (and clones). Ever driven a car with them? Stupid little things you can't see bugger all in. Look fugly too...
  2. And with that rambling reply, I never did give a straight answer, so " Yeah it should look sweet once its properly polished"
  3. You can polish a car so it looks mint in the shop, take it outside in the sun and it looks like crap (or vice a versa). Alot comes down to how time the guy is prepared to spend on it. Once its had the runs and orange peel dealt with, it will need a heavy machine cut to bring it back up, whether it then shows swirls or not depend on his follow up system, or more likely the apprentice/shop hand who will be doing the actual polishing. Swirls also vary by what pad they use, wool is be far the quickest but swirls pretty bad, foam pads are less prone to that, but have their own problems (like heat and grabbing), be interesting to see what they actually do with it, you should make a point of being there and watching, tends to improve the end result...
  4. As I mentioned above, they will just flat it back, that is, wet sand it (actually, modern shops will dry sand it with vacuum through the head with ultra fine paper, brand of Rupes is the most common device), and then machine buff it back up. Takes about a day done right. Simple machine cutting alone, even with aggressive compounds won't remove the orange peel and will leave swirls that are a bitch to remove afterwards. Used to do it for a grooming shop which also did car painters outwork (final polishes, removing orange peel/runs/dust or crap in clearcoat etc) and can say I'll never polish another black car with new paint again... most bastard job there is...
  5. Personally I'd be pissed if I paid $2K for that workmanship, let alone four grand. Had quite a few cars resprayed recently, final coats in the shop by a pro, with the prep and first coats in the garage, and the turn around time was more like a couple of days and good job. Little bit different for me as I know how to prep the cars and deal with runs if they occur (just flat them back and give them a good cut, thats all they will do on yours I'm sure). Most places want the car out as soon as possible, floor space is valuable, weird they deal in months and not days. Something doesn't sound right there, do they only have a part time painter or something?? Good luck on the job done right next time round...
  6. At 10psi the cars accelerating much faster and coasts upto another 20kph higher because hes spending so much time playing with his clutch and effectively in neutral. Its just some extra momentum, once he finds the rev limitor in both 7psi and 10psi he'll (eventually) figure out its at the same speed/revs...
  7. It will stall. Normal, don't worry about it. Your just creating a big airleak in your intake from the plumback from the cam cover to the intake after the afm. Something along those lines anyways.
  8. A few years back, there was myself (R32 GTS), and three friends with R32 GTS25's. Plus the others with the turbo Skylines etc, I did the exhaust and pod and gained about 12kW and that was me as I saw no point in going further with an n/a. The other three decided they would stick it out with their N/a's while I went turbo. So after lightened flywheels, extractors, cams, cam gears, ecu reprogrammed and all the rest of it the end result... almost as fast my turbo Skyline I had spent nothing on... They had the response and was quite hard to keep up on really twisty roads but anywhere I could open up, or esp at the drags I would leave them behind no worries. Two of the cars are now fitted with largish turbos and ones been sold and replaced with turbo Silvia. No one I know who was dedicated to N/A has stuck with it long term, you can get good power but the car will be a complete pig to drive and a cost a heap for little return. Go with Merli's suggestion and just go turbo, as you'll go that way sooner or later anyways.
  9. For some cars yes, for others no. My Bluebird (SR20DE) ran on normal happily, but my R32 Skyline GTS (RB20DE) pinged pretty bad on anything but premium, and thats at stock timing of 15 degrees too. I could of reduced the timing to run normal unleaded, but that defeats the purpose really as you get worse fuel eco with reduced timing (as well as reduced response)... Try it, and listen very carefully with it loaded up some hills and some detonation isn't very audiable...
  10. I know of someone who breifly ran with a straight pipe from the turbo back. Loud as hell and doesn't sound nice at all. I wouldn't recommend it...
  11. I should clarify that slightly, as theres no maps for whether its on boost or not, but rather how much flow the afm is reading etc, but you get the idea anyways.
  12. It won't run rich, because it will be using the offboost ecu maps, I've known a couple of cars to drive around like this without problems, your biggest problem is low c/r, so it will be extremely gutless which no amount of tuning will cure. I can think of three off the top of my head, all were quite hopeless. Keep the factory ecu and just wind in some timing perhaps...
  13. Why would you want to remove the headlights? I've removed the front bumper/bar on both R32 and R33's without such hassles... a couple of clips, a few bolts, easy... Intercooler as already stated is also just a few bolts and hose clamps to undo and thats it for that too.
  14. As above I think the dump site weigh bridge go in 20kg increments (sp?), but bulk carriers like grain warehouses sometimes have accurate (1kg) scales....
  15. And the one that everyone always seems to miss... the front shocks/springs are different. Rears are still the same thou.
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