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About map7

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    Rank: RB20DET
  • Birthday 05/12/1980

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  • Car(s)
    R32 GTR
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  1. I'm selling my 1989 Skyline R32 GTR, please refer to my carsales: http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=10150310 from Michael
  2. I've found some R32 GTS-T side mirrors and was wondering if the fit on a R32 GTR and if the wiring is correct? from Michael
  3. Make: R32 Model: GTR Milage: 146500 Transmission: 5spd manual Colour: gunmetal grey Location: Preston, Victoria Complied? Y RWC supplied? Y Currently registered? Y Price: $19,000 Contact: Michael 0401 020 165 Comments / Modifications: Serviced every 5000kms, stainless steel, ball bearing Garret Trust T517Z turbos, 265KW at the wheels before high flow cat, single plate cushion button clutch (not too heavy), front strut brace, 3 inch exhaust with high flow cat, Apexi Power FC with hand controller, reco'd rear diff, twin pod filters, new coils, full service records with receipts, Boost has never been increased from the turbo default, Turbo timer, 3 point immobilizer with remote, Tinted windows (by Tint-a-car), Stereo not included, All services done professionally. Images: Please refer to www.turboclub.com.au www.nissans.com.au or my ad at www.carsales.com.au Car ID: 5877698
  4. My car has just started making whirring noises. It happens only when I take off and usually when I'm turning. If I put the steering wheel in full lock to the right, then slowly take off in first gear I get a whirring noise followed by a loud clanking and banging from the front. I know enough that it sounds really bad and expensive. I replaced the diff last year and my mechanic has been saying that the gearbox and transfer case is on it's way out. I can hear the main bearing, and I have this weird problem with when the front torque goes over 15% there is a slight banging like a diff is disengaging and reengaging. My gut feel is that my front diff and the transfer case is stuffed but I would like a second opinion and if anyone could give me rough figures on how much it is to rebuild a gearbox with either standard parts or a good after market kit and fix the transfer case that would be great.
  5. I had heaps of fun thanks Kev and crew. BTW, I did manage to get new brakes at Camberfield and had them installed with a machine by 3:40pm, pretty good I suppose. I did try local places but they didn't have any R32 GTR brakes funny enough.
  6. I've just canceled my room at the motel if anyone wants it they can ring the motel.
  7. My car is broken so we are not coming up to DECA Please let me know if someone wants this accommodation which Mark and I have booked at Tudor: I've got a 1 queen & 2 single Mark got a 1 queen & 1 Dble.
  8. I've booked a 1 queen & 2 single Mark has booked 1 queen & 1 Dble. Both are at the Tudor.
  9. My mechanic has swapped the air flow meters and crank shaft sensor with the ones out of his own car, which he knows are good with my suspect ones. I've taken the car for a drive (80kms) and it has failed three times already. The sensor test is now complaining about AF-2. AF-1 did not highlight at all, but did drop significantly in voltage when the car failed. As the problem was happening if I hit the accelerator the car starts to die, like it's getting flooded with petrol. It stalled once and the other two times it has the same problem as before. I also tried moving the leads around the Air Flow meters whilst the car was running to see if it was shorting out but no problems happened. I'll do some more testing today.
  10. Thanks Paul, I've ran the tests here is the info: 1st Test (maximums), 1st Run: Knock = 36 Inj Duty = 100% Airflow = 5115 Revs = 7200 The problem didn't fully happen, but it did miss a few beats. 1st Test (maximums), 2nd Run: Knock = 37 Inj Duty = 100% Airflow = 5115 Revs = 7256 No problem happened here, but I maxed out again on most of the stuff. 2nd Test (sensors), 1st Problem Idling at 1000RPM, just after I've given it a bit, Exhaust temp light came on and the AF-1 sensor highlighted with a value of .02 to .03 2nd Test (sensors), 2nd Problem This one happened on the west gate bridge . Same sensor highlighted and same values. 2nd Test (sensors), 3rd Problem AF-1 again it just dropped suddenly from 1.5v to .04 whilst we were watching it and the car was just taking off in 1st gear, driving normally. I assume that the AF-1 sensor is the Air Flow Sensor, so I suppose I need to upgrade this part first and the problem should go away when I'm just cruising or idling? I've heard people putting in Z32-Air Flow Meters are these the way to go for my configuration? As far as the injectors maxing out will this only affect my car when I'm flooring it? When their maxing out this much should I first upgrade the fuel pump or injectors? Will just upgrading the fuel pump bring the injector duty percentage down?
  11. I haven't tested the fuel pump but do have extra information about the problem. My problem has been happening for 6 weeks now. In the last three days of driving this problem has happened 11 times. It's happened with the radio and AC off. I have noticed that when ever the problem is happening the Air Flow Meter in the Power FC drops down to around 500mV. I've had this probem happen if i'm just cruising or thrashing it or idling. I even drove 70km at under 3000RPM and it still happened. I don't understand and don't have the tools to start testing my fuel pump but am interested in peoples view to help solve the problem. The Power FC is not spitting out any problems what so ever. Sometimes just before the problem happens the Exhaust gas temp warning lamp comes on? Could this be the cause of the problem?
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