map7

I'm selling my 1989 Skyline R32 GTR, please refer to my carsales: http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=10150310 from Michael

I've found some R32 GTS-T side mirrors and was wondering if the fit on a R32 GTR and if the wiring is correct? from Michael

Make: R32 Model: GTR Milage: 146500 Transmission: 5spd manual Colour: gunmetal grey Location: Preston, Victoria Complied? Y RWC supplied? Y Currently registered? Y Price: $19,000 Contact: Michael 0401 020 165 Comments / Modifications: Serviced every 5000kms, stainless steel, ball bearing Garret Trust T517Z turbos, 265KW at the wheels before high flow cat, single plate cushion button clutch (not too heavy), front strut brace, 3 inch exhaust with high flow cat, Apexi Power FC with hand controller, reco'd rear diff, twin pod filters, new coils, full service records with receipts, Boost has never been increased from the turbo default, Turbo timer, 3 point immobilizer with remote, Tinted windows (by Tint-a-car), Stereo not included, All services done professionally. Images: Please refer to www.turboclub.com.au www.nissans.com.au or my ad at www.carsales.com.au Car ID: 5877698

My car has just started making whirring noises. It happens only when I take off and usually when I'm turning. If I put the steering wheel in full lock to the right, then slowly take off in first gear I get a whirring noise followed by a loud clanking and banging from the front. I know enough that it sounds really bad and expensive. I replaced the diff last year and my mechanic has been saying that the gearbox and transfer case is on it's way out. I can hear the main bearing, and I have this weird problem with when the front torque goes over 15% there is a slight banging like a diff is disengaging and reengaging. My gut feel is that my front diff and the transfer case is stuffed but I would like a second opinion and if anyone could give me rough figures on how much it is to rebuild a gearbox with either standard parts or a good after market kit and fix the transfer case that would be great.

I had heaps of fun thanks Kev and crew. BTW, I did manage to get new brakes at Camberfield and had them installed with a machine by 3:40pm, pretty good I suppose. I did try local places but they didn't have any R32 GTR brakes funny enough.

I've just canceled my room at the motel if anyone wants it they can ring the motel.

My car is broken so we are not coming up to DECA Please let me know if someone wants this accommodation which Mark and I have booked at Tudor: I've got a 1 queen & 2 single Mark got a 1 queen & 1 Dble.

I'm in.

I've booked a 1 queen & 2 single Mark has booked 1 queen & 1 Dble. Both are at the Tudor.

faxed and paid

Bec, I've booked a duluxe cabin

Paid & Faxed

My mechanic has swapped the air flow meters and crank shaft sensor with the ones out of his own car, which he knows are good with my suspect ones. I've taken the car for a drive (80kms) and it has failed three times already. The sensor test is now complaining about AF-2. AF-1 did not highlight at all, but did drop significantly in voltage when the car failed. As the problem was happening if I hit the accelerator the car starts to die, like it's getting flooded with petrol. It stalled once and the other two times it has the same problem as before. I also tried moving the leads around the Air Flow meters whilst the car was running to see if it was shorting out but no problems happened. I'll do some more testing today.

Thanks Paul, I've ran the tests here is the info: 1st Test (maximums), 1st Run: Knock = 36 Inj Duty = 100% Airflow = 5115 Revs = 7200 The problem didn't fully happen, but it did miss a few beats. 1st Test (maximums), 2nd Run: Knock = 37 Inj Duty = 100% Airflow = 5115 Revs = 7256 No problem happened here, but I maxed out again on most of the stuff. 2nd Test (sensors), 1st Problem Idling at 1000RPM, just after I've given it a bit, Exhaust temp light came on and the AF-1 sensor highlighted with a value of .02 to .03 2nd Test (sensors), 2nd Problem This one happened on the west gate bridge . Same sensor highlighted and same values. 2nd Test (sensors), 3rd Problem AF-1 again it just dropped suddenly from 1.5v to .04 whilst we were watching it and the car was just taking off in 1st gear, driving normally. I assume that the AF-1 sensor is the Air Flow Sensor, so I suppose I need to upgrade this part first and the problem should go away when I'm just cruising or idling? I've heard people putting in Z32-Air Flow Meters are these the way to go for my configuration? As far as the injectors maxing out will this only affect my car when I'm flooring it? When their maxing out this much should I first upgrade the fuel pump or injectors? Will just upgrading the fuel pump bring the injector duty percentage down?

I haven't tested the fuel pump but do have extra information about the problem. My problem has been happening for 6 weeks now. In the last three days of driving this problem has happened 11 times. It's happened with the radio and AC off. I have noticed that when ever the problem is happening the Air Flow Meter in the Power FC drops down to around 500mV. I've had this probem happen if i'm just cruising or thrashing it or idling. I even drove 70km at under 3000RPM and it still happened. I don't understand and don't have the tools to start testing my fuel pump but am interested in peoples view to help solve the problem. The Power FC is not spitting out any problems what so ever. Sometimes just before the problem happens the Exhaust gas temp warning lamp comes on? Could this be the cause of the problem?

I notice that sometimes my Injector Duty reaches 99.8% maybe it's cutting out.

I just upgraded to an Apexi Power FC & bigger turbos (Twin Trust T517Z) and I've had it tuned. Sometimes I loose all power completely and it's come close to stalling. It usually happens just after giving it a lot of stick, then backing off and driving normal. When it's playing up it will sit at around 1000rpm or drop up and down a little like it's going to stall. If I hit the accelerator (even if i push it to the ground) the RPM does nothing, then I leave everything alone for a few seconds and it's up and going again. It's happening quite often (5 times in 50kms last night and 3 times tonight in 100kms). It's a bit all over the place. Sometimes it doesn't play up at all. The only mods to the car are: Big Exhaust (from cat to back) Pod filters Trust Twin T517Z turbos Apexi Power FC with Hand controller Xtreme single button soft cushion clutch. I have a feeling that it's the fuel pump, but I'm not a mechanic. Does anyone have any ideas on what I could check? I could use the hand controller to better diagnose the problem as I'm driving, is there anything I should be looking at specifically?

I just installed a Power FC into my R32 GTR and would be interested in linking it up to a notebook to record all the data it collects into a log. Does anyone know of any software which will read the output from an Apexi Power FC? Is there any that run under Linux?

My diff in my 89 R32 GTR has just gone as well, I'm also thinking whether I should upgrade or just put in a stock one. I use mine for daily driving and a little track work every once in a while. I've heard the KAAZ 1.5 way is a pain to drive as a daily driver. Let me know which direction you go.

Guess what. All you guys are right it's the Sender unit. I'm so happy I wasn't ready to pay for a rebuild and even engine removal sounds scary. Thanks guys for your input, it made me start to question the sender unit and sure enough that was the problem. The mechanic said their pressure sensor tool showed that the oil pressure was a steady 4.5, whilst the gauge was moving all over the place. I get my car tomorrow and I'm going for a cruise. I think my car has been off the road more than on the road since I've owned the fantastic beast. Ah well it's worth it, because every time I jump in that car it's f'n awsome. Instead of paying all this money to fix things I should be modding the crap out of it . Next step I want a PowerFC.

I had a chat with my mechanic and he said that first they'll check the oil pressure with a tool they have then the options are: get the oil pump fixed with a standard one = estimate $2500 engine rebuild = estimate $8000 These are rough estimates. Then whilst I have the engine out I might as well upgrade a few parts whilst I'm in there and that's extra cash. I take it in tuesday week to get the car checked out then I'll have an answer to what I have to do. In the mean time i'm driving it, but only if I really have to which might be once this week. I should fix this before the engine blows because if i just wait till the engine blows then it could do a lot of damage and may harm the block. Do you guys think it's best to get on top of this before the engine blows or just keep driving it and get a rebuild when the it does blow?

I will install a new gauge to monitor the situation a bit better. Yeah as soon as it sits on zero I give it a few revs and it starts to move again, weird.

Should I install another oil pressure gauge so I can test it?

I've got a early R32 GTR 89' model and sometimes the oil gauge will sit on zero for a little while then jump between to 1.5 or 4. The light does not come on though. Could it be the gauge at all? Should I pull over and turn the car off immediately when it sits on zero? Then should I start it again and if it's back to normal keep driving? Roughly how much does it cost to replace the oil pump (including removing the engine)? What upgrade options do i have on the oil pump? brands/models? I saw a 2nd hand Tomei Oil Pump for sale a little while ago for $600 are these any good? Is there a way to install an external oil pump so that if this happens again the motor doesn't have to come out? If i do have to take the engine out is there anything which I should consider changing which wouldn't cost too much whilst the engine is already out? The only mods the car has is: - 3" exhaust - high-flow cat - pod filters

I've booked an ensuite for Friday and Sat night but I can only stay Friday night. Does anyone want a cabin for Saturday night only? I've had to pay for the minimal of two nights. Let me know.