rinmak

Have you tried with a pair of digital calipers? Maybe the old school ones just arent acurate enough to show a difference that little.

Should be fine. The return is not under any pressure and an o-ring wont deteriate as quickly as a paper gasket anyway.

No, the resolutuions are different and I think even the plugs are. With a re-map yes....but otherwise no.

This is what they look like (in s13 anyway): That little float pivots an arm that is rubbing against a series of different points on a circuit board. When it is low, it rubs on the lower points, giving a lower reading. When its high, vice versa. Check the tracks on the board and make sure its making contact through the whole range. You should be able to test this with it out of the car just plug the fuel pump loom back in and have a play.

Pretty sure he bought the leftover shell from the guy that was wrecking those 2 33's. It is smashed and literally bare except for glass: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bo...ts-t254005.html To be honest man I think you would be better off buying a complete car. Not only do you need to fix the smashed up front end but you need to buy so many individual components to get it to a working state...it will be a massive headache. If you were trying to do it this way to save money then I think you will be suprised at how much you dont save.

If its when your clutch is out then its a worn input shaft bearing on the gearbox If its when your clutch is in then its a worn throw out bearing (aka thrust bearing). Both are cheap parts but both mean the gearbox has to come off. Just wait untll you have to replace your clutch to get them both done.

Thanks man. Should have included this in the original post but oh well.. The bottom end was left completely standard the whole time. It is an 80,000km bottom end and the noise wasnt occuring 2 years ago when I heard it running before purchasing the halfcut. When I had the head off the bores were spotless as well. EDIT: I did turn the bottom end over by hand maybe a total of 30-40 times whilst the head was off. Would this have caused any damage to the bearings do you think? I had drained the oil but I thought there would still be residual left overs to keep things lubricated. It would have been turned over after just over a year of not moving.

Guys I have a fairly similar noise in my RB25DET and ive been scratching my head to figure out what it is. Heres the story The motor itself hadnt been run for nearly 2 years. It was off the road for a build im doing to my 180sx. In this time I had the head off the motor, poncams professionally installed in said head and I bolted it back together with a new genuine gasket and ARP head studs. A workshop got the car running and noise very similar to Camerons appeared. The workshop assured me they primed the car off the starter motor first to build oil pressure. I havent checked that much myself so far, just a simple compression check which all came up fine (shouldnt be bent valves etc) The wierd thing is, if I run the car for a while and take it up n down the block for example then the noise goes away. It only seems to be audible for the first 5 or so minutes the car is running. What would this indicate? From my knowledge you will always be able to hear a bearing failure in a motor correct? Once they start they will not go away?

Garrett OEM turbos dont need a restrictor as they have them built in to the core.

Theres no point mate. 3 reasons: 1) The mounts on the top dont line up 2) The R33 radiator is taller and will foul the bonnet 3) It isnt actually an upgrade in any way. Your better off getting an after market ally item

Yeah but I would rather replace 2-3 second hand ones than pay the price nissan would want for a new one. That said, I have never got a quote from them so it might be worth calling just for a laugh. You may even have some luck taking the old core out and bringing it to a radiator service center to get it rebuilt/re sealed

If you block them off then the water cant flow like the system was designed. I would much rather loop them and keep the system working as was intended. I think it would be defectable if the inspector was a c**t as you wouldnt be able to defrost your windscreen on cold mornings. I have replaced one before and it wasnt that bad of a job. Keep in mind I had taken a dash out before so a lot of it wasnt new to me. Also I used an R32 heater core and it fit in the R33 just fine....which might open up your second hand market a bit

Look on the front of your motor for the crank angle sensor (its the silver alloy thing with the plug running in to it). Unlplug this and your car wont give spark or fuel so it wont fire.

Just start it up every 1-2 weeks. Even for just a few minutes. Your battery will go flat though so you will want a charger. If you cbf buying a charger then drive it at least 20 mins once a week.

Thats correct. Almost impossible to see normally without good tools/light. Easiest to ask the owner for the rego papers as it should be on there