chrissso

YAS! I finished building my DFA and IEBC + hand controller. I found them pretty easy to make too. No issues with wrong wiring and the DFA was easy to calibrate..etc. I came arcoss one problem though. WhenI installed the IEBC, I found that the solenoid wouldn't work. I don't know if this has been mentioned (alot of posts in this thread) but it turns out that the std solenoid has ignition switched power going to it. The ecu connector to the boost solenoid (pinout 25 on R33) is a switched ground. SO the ECU opens the solenoid by connecting input 25 to ground. I connected pin 25 to the IEBC (not knowing the above) and the solenoid wouldn't work because basically I'd connected 12v ignition power running through the solenoid to the out on the IEBC. -no ground So, at the solenoid I will change the wires over and ground one out. I don't think you can run a reverse current through a solenoid as I think it will shut it even tighter instead of opening it. - Is this right? Does this make sense? The solenoid does work - I tested it. Anyone else find a different way of over coming this? Thanks for any advise Also... If anyone on the goldcoast wants help with their soldering or installs PM me. - glad to help. Or if you want me to build one for you, I might be able to do something for a small fee! Chris

Thanks Siks, I'm going to pick up some...

'cos I'm at work and the cars at home and I want to pick them up on the way home. Anyone else?

Can anyone tell me what bulbs go into the hi beams and lo beam of a series 1 R33 Gts-25t??? Tried searching here and google - no good. All say maybe this- maybe that Heaps of R32 stuff. Surely someones done it.!!! Thanks all

Great help - Thanks for the guide. I ended up taking off most of the front plastic covers, glov box etc. Would anyone like pics?

Acually, You can get a boost controll module for the power FC ECU.

Hmmm, just got mine done and it as 150 accross all 6. Well, that's what I was told... Anyone else know what it should be?

I have a mate who can do most things. custom etc. PM me.

I think its both... I've seen R31's with ceramic turbos std aswell.

From what I have been told when speaking to exhaust shops, cheap stainless steel dumps can crack.. If the ex shop were to custom make a dump, they were going to make it out of mild steel. You get what you pay for in the end. I would very much doubt that a HKS stainless dump would crack. The exhaust temp from the cat back is alot cooler so there is far less of a problem with cracks...

You will get more lag from a bigger cooler, as other people have pointed out, there is more volume to fill. But you should also get more power when you hit full boost.

Running rich??? dunno..

Hey, I'm looking for a 12" sub box that will fit an R33 - any one have such an item?

My mechanic got a GTR one for $89 If your doing it your self - try repco... or you can try nengun.com - I think the do trust and greddy ones etc... Nissan ones are fine.

Hey sup. "Turbo Back" includes dump pipe. A split pipe is a dual piped dump pipe, one for turbine outlet and one for internal wastegate. Talk to an exhaust shop. I have seen stainless split dumps on eBay for skylines - however, I have had exhausts shops write them off, they crack. They recommend a mild steel version. ...

Can confirm that - got one myself the other day..

I'd like to bump this thread - saved me $200+ for bearings. Thanks BenL Good work!!!

Have PMed you about BOV.

Wickid. Thanks Brov. Init nice when every thing works out. Hows your install going?

PICS OR BAN!!!!

Hey SK, Sorry to dig this up but can you confirm this.. If you were using the IEBC and DFA. low IEBC boost setting = lower air flow load point, DFA adjusts voltage for this lower range. And higher boost = higher air flow load point. DFA uses load point from higher up in it's table. So, am I right in thinking that I need to get the car tuned at the high boost setting. And if I were to flick to a lower boost setting , it won't matter because the dfa will already be tuned for lower load points as well. I'm getting both of these and just need to know what to do once installed. SO far.. Get boost levels right first Then tune on the high boost setting. The second lower boost setting will be setup like yours, 100% from about point 20 up. Thanks Chris

Does everyone think that putting in the DFA first is a good idea? Or the IEBC? The reason for asking is that if you install the EBC first and then modify the fuel curve using the DFA after - this would effect the injector duty cycle. Since the IEBC runs off injector duty cycle - this would put your boost control out.. (?) What about if you have a DFA tuned on the dyno and then you install the IEBC and increase the boost? Do you then have to retune the DFA for more boost? From reading the thread it seems you don't as the MAF sensors air flow increases which just moves the DFA to a higher tune point... I'm having a hard time understanding this!! :S

BTW, the word on the next street is that Nissan putplumback bov std on their cars to keep them quite. They are under the impression that people didn't want funny noises coming from their cars. so bov for the surge and plumback for the bov. In other words - I don't think they need em.

The noise is turbo surge isn'tit? The air comes back out the turbo in bits at a time. Have heard its only a problem if running 14lbs or more. I.E., you need a BOV at 14lbs or more. Don't take my word for it though. I'm pretty sure that GBF and Turbosmart bovs are adjustable and if you tighten them up, you get surge at low boost and bov at high boost. Also heard cars do this on jap video cos they have massive bovs and big turbos and the bov lets all the air out quick and closes but cos of big turbo, lots of inertia and stil spinning, makes more pressure and the bov then lets all this go again and etc, etc. As I said it's all hearsay, but it's the word on the street... well.. my street anyway.

I Hate bullet connections, I found that when I used them I had all sorts of problems from missed crimps and erratic connections. Use solder and heat shrink tubes or electrical tape. I haven't had problems with this. It might not solve your problem but at least you know you won't lose the AFM signal if the bullet joint get accidentally separated at full boost. - IMO bullet joint is your issue... bad or no connection. Chassis should work for ground...