entelijint

so i'm assuming the extra 2 pins on the rb25 connector and ecu control VCT?

So I tried searching and turned up nothing. I'm in the middle of my RB25 swap/build and am wondering if it's possible to use the RB20DET ECU with a series 2 RB25DET engine. the loom that came with the RB25 had the ecu connector cut off (they cut it at the firewall) and was wondering if I could just splice the rb20 end onto the rb25 without worrying much. I have both the rb20 and rb25 ecu, the pin-out on the rb25 one having 2 extra pins though. I'll be using a MAP-ECU2 with this car... 550cc injectors, larger turbo, no maf, modified fuel pressure... so the tune will be completely custom. anyways, long and short of it, can I get away with using the rb20 ecu with my rb25? if anybody knows, please explain what the issues would be if there are any.

where i am, the first year skylines were legal, 1/2 of them that came in were either broken into, vandalised or stolen and burnt. right now about 1/4 of them have something of those 3 happen to them throughout the year (mine had an attempted break-in and 2 vandalisms on all seperate occasions). so it gives me reason to protect it. on my car i have: 1) window edge thingers... the plastic bits at the top so rain doesnt get in with a slightly open window. that stops a lot of attempted thefts because they can slide anything into the car. 2) 2 way pager alarm that's so sensitive, bird crap can set it off. 3) a switch that's wired up to my fuel pump... i flick the switch, the fuel pump can't operate. the switch is also hidden so only myself, my fiance and my mechanic know where it is 4) next year will bring in a removable steering wheel but for the past while has been "the club". obsessive? yes. Justified? yes.

look at what they're called... Hicas Lock Bar. go through it piece by piece... Hicas- the rear steering of a nissan that creates an annoying feeling while cornering with some speed. Lock- a contrivance for fastening or securing something. Bar- a relatively long, evenly shaped piece of some solid substance, as metal or wood, used as a guard or obstruction or for some mechanical purpose. put them together and you get: A piece of metal (or wood) to secure the hicas in a solid state... it keeps the hicas from working because it replaces the rear steering rack with a solid piece of metal.

thanks for the info! i can understand the head needing work due to softer valve springs (solid lifters usually come hand-in-hand with soft valve springs) but i thought the bottom end was beefier, anybody else know about this issue of 280kw? as for just the cover... i quite like the plenum design as well

I'm looking at dropping in an RB25DET into my R32 (the RB20 just isnt cutting it anymore) and I'm curious of opinions on which swap is more recommended. The way I see it, the Neo6 would be nice because it supposedly has a little stonger bottom end, has solid lifters, dual throttle bodies and that sweet looking cover... but what about the wiring? I've been told it can be a nightmare due to the lack of ABS, TCS, etc. on my R32. Would I just be hacking and slashing the Neo loom with my RB20 loom as per the usual R33 RB25 (series 1 or 2, doesnt matter) swap? Or should I just stick with the series 2 RB25? is the neo that much harder to drop in that it's not worth the effort? I have a chance to get a Neo6 for 500$ more than a series2 which is why it's causing such a dilema. I'm aiming for 300-330rwkw, would there be any disadvantages to either of the RB25 choices? I've tried searching here and sdu for an answer on what's required on the swap but so far no luck. nobody really has dropped a neo6 into an hcr32 and posted about it. basically I understand for the neo6 swap, I will need... 1) engine, trans (i plan on puting out more power than the rb20 gearbox can handle), loom, ecu. 2) lots of time for wiring changes 3) custom tailshaft made up (a friend of mine makes them for a living, not really an issue here ) 4) custom gearbox mount 5) ... anything else? well, that's about all for my questioning... sorry for so many but unlike you guys in the great land of Australia, I can't really walk into a local speed shop and shoot the shit about this. Usually if i mention a skyline, the first thing the people say is "oh! is that one of those cars with the wheel on the wrong side?!"

...so not a single person on this board has ever done anything with an RB25DET wire harness?

Howdy, a friend of mine is hoping to get an answer about this, i've searched and looked but to no avail so i turn to you guys. the RB25DET engine harness/loom has 3 plugs that come through the firewall, one for the ECU and the other two do what exactly? this is a swap being done to an S14 and is kind of at a standstill until these 2 mystery plugs get assigned a task. Please help out, i've FASTed the Vin for a wiring diagram, searched 3 skyline forums and tried to hunt down anything... no such luck

i just got home, it's still really fresh and nasty lookin, but i'm so damn proud of my latest addition now no matter what, i'll have an R32 with me dont mind the little bit of blood and the house robe, it's hard to clean there and it's too soon to shower

but... if you have a somewhat heavy foot like me... it's nice to have a reminder when you're starting to speed

thanks you guys... r32 gts-turbo, that isnt an R32 Skyline badge, is that may be the R33? we dont have them here so i've never really looked into it slimjim, perfect. the one from the wheel center is what i need. i recently sold my stockers and the best image would have been from the steering wheel. huge appreciation goes out to you guys... less than 2 days until i get it done for good

alrighty, last bump. i need an image by saturday but can survive without one. apparently a high res camera shot will work. Seeing as how it'll be with me for a while, may as well tell people why i need the image... i'm getting an R32 emblem tattooed on my right calf. so step one is just the S (because i'm getting 3 other tattoos that day and dont want to be in a little room for a full day ) and when i go back for touchups, "Built With Spartan Air" will be added.

please... anybody? with over 20 views, somebody must have something.

howdy, thanks for at least looking at this thread. i know it's in somewhat the wrong section, but it's still skyline related. I need to get a high resolution R32 Skyline badge image. the 'S' from the bonnet/wheel centers to be specific. not a photograph though, needs to be a clear printable image. thanks in advance, i'll explain why in a few days -matt

r32 sedan... 3" exhaust, pod, fmic, 11psi boost i've dropped down to about 270-290km/55L from the 330-360km/55L that i was getting before the fmic install that's all city driving, and well, i drive the skyline the way it's supposed to be used

those are pretty sweet. i think somebody in the local government saw them and decided to do something as close as they can to use R34s as our cars (damn 15 year rule)... yeah, dodge didnt rip off the look at all

here's mine as of last year some newer ones dont mind the smudge or the cracked bumper on this one

contact Adam at FEAST auto export [email protected] i ordered mine through him... for both plus shipping it came to i think 150$. I don't know how much more shipping would be to Australia versus Canada, but i couldn't imagine it being 300$ to equal out the dealer price

alacazam... http://www.illusion-lighting.com/ a couple people here in winnipeg have already decided to go this route. my car got safetied before the huge issue was raised so it doesnt really concern me (plus i have a friend who will pass a safety on any car for a beer and pizza).

what it sounds like is one of two problems... 1) vacuum lines 2) intake piping 1) what i do to find the whistle is spray each line individually with some hair-spray. so spray one, wait for it to dry (10 seconds), rev up the engine... if it still whistles, check another line/connection. keep doing it until you find which one is giving you grief and then replace the bad one. best part about hairspray is that it's water soluble, it's cheap, non-corrosive and hardens very fast. 2) I have had less experience with this issue, but the best way to check is to pressurize the whole intake system without the engine running (valves sealed and no other noise)... you can do this by using a valve-stem mounted inside a piece of capped off PVC piping. Just place the capped off piece of PVC piping with the valve stem in place of your air filters (cap off one of them), pressurize the system with a bicycle pump and listen for any leaks. you may have a cracked coupler that's causing air to whistle as it quickly gets vacuumed into your piping. I recently had something like the whistling noise coming from my engine and it quickly progressed to a heavy whoosh. no boost issues, no sputtering, nothing. turns out one of my intake pipe clamps came loose and with every close of the throttle I wasn't using the BOV but rather a piece of piping was completely coming off and then sealing itself again. check those two possibilities and see how things turn out

Thanks for the help, minor problem that i'm in Canada, so picking up replacements from Adelaide is a little more difficult for me than most I did however get a very useful pm about getting the stock joints spun off and replacing them with something more common and easier to change the universal in... like a 240. I'll be checking out a 240 driveshaft tomorrow to measure up, if it's not too far off, there's a local shop here that will cut/fit/balance/weld everything together for less than 200$ (if a 240 is too small though, i'll just grab a driveshaft from one of my trucks ). So, for 200$ I can have no worries about having to ship in parts and instead, just pick up pieces from any local car shop (finding shops that stock skyline parts here is, well... rather hard to say the least) thanks for looking, and thanks even more to those who took the time to send some information my way

Alo alo, I was hoping some of you fine folks could help me out with finding out about the universal joint on my GTS-t. After looking the part I need up in FAST, all i can see is that there is a footnote written about it (in Japanese)but no actual part number. the closest it seems I can get is part number 37000 which is "SHAFT ASSY-PROPELLER" but all i want is the little "X" looking thing that connects the driveshaft to the differential. I have replaced them in trucks before, but never a skyline... please tell me it can be a simple little part that can be replaced and not the whole assembly. We don't have such a great selection of parts up here in the great white north, if it was an easy part that was the same as a Z32, i would be very happy. thanks for looking and thank you very much if you know something and take the time to post. -matt

i daily drive my R32 GTS-t M during the summer but she's parked for the winter and i'm at the mercy of the g/f's protege or Audi A4 1.8T quattro. Parked the skyline on October 28, she'll probably come out around mid-april... we have short summers here in the great white north. But during that time, i drive about 600km/week.

i'm currently converting my stock bumper to fit a larger fmic... it looks a lot like the TK one with a little more of an inward angle. I'm a fan for the stock look but needed a tad more air. TK voted

one thing i noticed that made the whole thing easier on my gts-t was a knife. It's just an air conditioning unit and i could care less about selling it for a few bucks. so I took a bolt cutter and sharp serrated knife to everything and unbolted/removed small pieces instead of keeping it all together. for the amount of sanity that would have been lost due to pissing about with neatly doing things, the money wouldn't have been worth it. if you don't care about not making a couple dollars off the selling of your used system, i highly suggest this route