T04GTR

yes, well the vq35hr is a gun engine, but im abit greedy. from my own personal experiences, about 800whp is the "reliable" limit for a stock block with rods and pistons and a good ecu. 900-950 and it starts flexing the liners to much and head gasket sealing is a problem. got some sleeves for it to fix that problem. and the precision 88mm pro mod turbo will need that... i have a vk45de ready to put together, the 41awd has always been a idea i wanted to play with. but for what i am planning EVERYTHING needs to be changed. but, the 41 is an oddball thing. head gaskets, cams and the rocker arm issue with big cams is a problem. that, and they just dont exist much anymore. same for the vk45de really. but, the vk shares alot of bits with the vk56, so aftermarket support is better. im torn between the 2. the blocks are comparable in strength, the vk head is alot better. but the vh has a diff already mounted. but it would have to be moved forward. vk head gaskets are mls, and easy to find. all the valve gear is vq, so easy and reliable to 8500rpm. and its a narrower engine. but is just ugly... expensive and silly decision for a looks thing. i dont know...

stuff it... its looking like i should sleeved it from the get go.. 12yrs later and ive come full circle,, pistons all have cracked skirts, little ends of the pistons are flogged out from the piston being distorted and banged arround in the wobbly bore.. and the liners are out of round 6 thou up the top.. this is the solution...

yeah. to costly to get a stock engine, then another 6k in mods to make it usable.. (1500whp...) on another note, it would appear ive come full circle... lol...

all well and good, but where do you get a vk56de from... i am looking..

lol.... 12yrs later, ive come full circle. doing the same research... vq killing my life

clutch is my fault. didnt leave enough clearance for the release bearing to come back, so its riding on it.. if your not breaking them, your not trying hard enough.. alloy rod oil pressure is weird. really low at idle, but really high once the revs are up. (20@idle-110@4k+) i did shim up the nismo pump. and old engine had really loose oil clearances.

made it to the maccas, but the radiator decided it didnt want to go.. leaking at all 4 corners... looses about 1 liter every 20 mins or so.. so i took it back to the shop.. hope it was a good drive. its been a while, i didnt recognize anyone..

long time between posts. but this thing just doesnt want to go back together cleanly.. hears what happened.: got it in and running. promply snapped a camshaft.. fixed that, then it kept loosing water. coolant top pipe "o" ring split.. fixed that, dyno.. again mystery water strains.. and was pinging bad over 15psi.. fixed, fuel pressure issue. raped it. stuck at 900 atw on 98... checked the logs, clutch f**ked. so it just drives through a twin 230mm carbon clutch like its nothing.. on the street 15psi felt like 20 on the old motor.so we are making some torque.. just left it like that... got it all ready to go for the sau cruise today. made it to the maccas, but when filling up i came out to a river of coolant under the front of the car... flamin mongreling radiator leaking from 6 tube joints.. (probs got hurt when the head gasket blew from before...) the big fan just works to well. it manages to keep it cool even though its missing 3L of water..then it doesnt because there no water to cool anymore.. limped it back to wetheril park. (never went over 90) so there we have it. kunt thing just keeps throwing curve balls at me..

should be as near to 90 degrees to the actuator for predictable boost control. its still a leaver. if you have to steep an angle it wont behave smoothly because of the lever ratio of the back pressure acting on the arm. also, if you have a "back pressure" issue, you can change the angle to a steeper one to make it "harder" for the back pressure to blow the gate open.

pretty well mostly done. also weird cam timing to suit r35 vr38 cams. (same basic engine with same pitch chain, just a taller block and hence different dowel locations for the cams. ) but uses the same cam gears

coming together. hard to find the time. studs tensioned to 120lf/lbs all ok no bore distortion either big ass intake ports, (the main thing that sold me on the vq platform) had to "shorten" the oil squirter banjo bolts about 1mm rods came a little to close for comfort, also "king racing" main bearings are sized for a flogged out bottom size crank journal... had 1 thou main clearance with the "standard" size... so another 220 dollars later for the standard-extra size.. 2.5 ish on the mains, 2 on the big ends. modified the oil passages behind the timing cover plates for better oil flow. was really shit from factory..

thanks mate. yeah sounds ok, but you need equal length pipes and a short y pipe for it to not sound like a chainsaw. https://www.facebook.com/100009048704662/videos/1908770276101244/ https://www.facebook.com/ben.sinclair.568/videos/10155718413276154/

thanks mate. about 100 grams lighter, but the pin is heavier. so more reciprocating but less rotational weight. the thing revs like motorbike anyway. way overkill, but will be interesting to see how they go. it was the cheapest way to get a ford bearing in there. custom pro h carillos would be 2k+ usd. mayby on the next one if this works. just getting rid of the graded nissan bearing was the main reason. as they were getting pounded.(mains aswell, only have 4 bearings doing the work of 7..) went in with 2 thou. cam out with 5... after 6500km.. i think they would be ok up to about 7-750 hp but not at 1100hp.. (engine) its all on the pointy end of all of it. cosworh emailed me and said the pistons are good to 800hp.. we will see

rods arrived. now the fun begins

so it popped a head gasket.. the of the shelf arp studs for the vq weren't up to the task.. the bores are all ok, as it just pushed the middle layer out. i stripped it down, and noticed the wrist pins were bent. 160 wall off the shelf cosworth pins.. the bearings were ok, but were clearly being over loaded with 1000hp at the wheels..as the are the oem shells, and all that is available is the oem graded bearings. no good. after looking at my big end journal size, 2.1246" and 17mm wide, ford winsor, 2.1234" 17.2mm so i will be taking only 1.2 thou!! to make a factory off the shelf ford bearing work i will be using a bme aluminum rod with doweled bearings. (and yes, you can use them on the street.. just need to have the oil temp regulated between 60 and 90 degc on the head stud situation.. im using vr38 studs, have to drill and tap/insert the block for them, but will be alot stronger. pistons are still quite good, no real sign of being at there limit, apart from the pins deforming and flogging out the little end bush in the rods, il just be using some 200-220 wall pins. i have got some cosworth head gaskets for it too. (had stock hr gaskets.) so now its just a waiting game for the rods, then game on

[email protected] (1.7 60') going next wed to see if i can launch it properly. and roll racing on friday.(thanks peter ) sorted crank angle sensor issue. probs wont go alot quicker, i dont want to run more boost on 98. and dont want to fit a PROPER water meth kit. (not just a pump,nozzel and a hobbs switch..) the cherry/zf hall sensor is just not up to the task. was getting sync errors at high revs and unstable rpm. (gearshift,traction control rev limiter. and i think the really long input shaft for the gearbox is acting like a torsional spring and whipping the crank under high power, causing a false trigger or missed trigger of the hall sensor. fitted a magnetic honeywell sensor. bloody thing was 200 dollars.. the only one i could find that was the correct length. (3/8 threaded) problem solved. no more sync errors, no matter how hard i bash the limiter. after fitting that i found a barra ford mag crank sensor in the bits draw of my toolbox... SAME LENGTH, SAME FLANGE MOUNT and denso aswell farken.. because gtr.. im using mt et street r. 275-60-15 on 15x10 weld magnum with a 45mm wheel spacer. these are worn out. but still better than the road tires ive got.

stock block with custom deck guard. traction control struggles with the federal 595's..... without it it will blaze any gear at 100+

finished tuning it up on 98 today. 912hp/680rwkw @28psi (been putting some kms on it. and going to roll racing etc etc.)MOV_0440 - converted with Clipchamp.mp4MOV_0439 - converted with Clipchamp.mp4

put it on 98, and turned the boost up to 25psi. just shy of 810hp@wheels (pretty much right on 600rwkw) e85 had retarded fuel economy.. time will tell with 98 and stock primaries. made 636 on 15psi stock primary injectors/1000cc secondaries (4 bar base pressure) it got raped on the dyno today. burned though 60L of 98.... ned to gap the plugs or turn up the dwell on the coils. (abit fluffy though the middle on 25 psi) should be fun at roll drags

paddle shift works really well now. gear blip and cut times, even though in closed loop need alot of tweaking because it all happens in less than 50ms. just getting all the actuator delay times and amount of tps needed for each gear. going up and down, and every 1000rpm.. soon as i work out how to use a go-pro il post up a vid

a/c works like a champ now. 100% duty it doesn't seem happy, 90-95% it cranks. needs more gas but. i could put a pressure sensor on the a/c and monitor it to keep the pressure in the sweet spot, but for the time being a fixed duty ramping down to 70% as rpm rises seems to work fine.

thats mad! but i would suggest extending the o2 sensor loom so the sensor can see the whole bank, not just 1 pipe. (these things really rely on the o2 sensor for 99% of driving..) mad tow car!

rear wheel situation? kthanks

thats mad. instant boost. but do yourself a favor and cut the "divider" part of the gasket out or find a mls single entry gasket. as all the t4 dual entry "gasket leaks" ive fixed are because of the divider. the divider wall is the hottest part of the housing and "grows" more than the periphery, constantly lifts on the divider and eventually lifts enough to break the seal around the outside of the flange. the oxy cuts the gasket away leaving a nice section missing but the divider perfectly intact..

changing it to 98 fuel now. fitting standard primary injectors. (main reason for e85 and/or avgas was i had 10 heat range spark plugs in it. and didnt want to foul 50 dollar each spark plugs.. ordered some 8's today. + the horrendous fuel consumption given that its running around town at 0.95-1 lambda and 0.85 on boost.. got the a/c working, its cold but on a 35 degree day it wont be. i need to control the a/c compressor via the ecu not the 1990's climate control unit. (both r32 and 2008 vq have a "compressor control valve" but the strategy appears to be totally different, not surprise there.. probably inverted or something. no idea on how the r32 unit controls the valve. easier to just let my ecu do it. but after lots of digging around on the net i found a calsonic tech paper on the valve in question. mainly the voltage and pwm freq required to drive it. as there is nothing in the workshop manual for testing it.. paddle shift is getting better, just lots of fine tuning on the road to get it smooth. for some reason i thought i could get it like a dsg.,. but im back in reality now lol. sometimes it is dead smooth. sometimes abit clunky. but that just depends on whether the dogs are lined up at that milisecond. its a 50/50 chance on each gear change. federal 595 evo tyres are dogshit.. wet road CRUISING up from 40-50kph. i have in the order of 10-30% wheel slip.. 90 during a light gear change. lol. in the dry it keeps it in check. but sounds like a wet fart up to 3rd gear with all the torque reduction the ecu has to do. http://www.r744.com/files/pdf_130.pdf