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FLT10

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Everything posted by FLT10

  1. Anthony from Aero Image garage.. Facebook him
  2. Hey mate. Would you still have a r33 fuel tank and fuel level sender?
  3. Im with T_revs.. have u had/do any work to the car? If its only the tail light fuse blowing, trace all wires as best you can and make sure there are no shorts in it. time consuming but best to do by yourself.
  4. When I was getting my respray, the window guy used a hell of a sharp stanley and also stanley knife air tool and just attacked it from the inside. Once u remove the interior panels around the wondow, I think there a couple of positioning tabs (hard plastic) that the guy who did my car just cut right through (sliding the blade between the window and the metal trim that its stuck to). But im sure if you wanted to preserve yours, you could go around them and manage to get the window off, just b careful as it doesn't take much for that glass to shatter.. hope this helps...
  5. Hi All! Issue with my car is that(long story short): -It wasn't driven for a few yrs (few fam issues), but I tried to get it started and running every 3-4 weeks. -Spent about a yr fully stripped for a respray so didn't get started much. -Putting it all back together now and almost done -Wasn't starting for a bit, so changed fuel pump from old Walbro to new walbro (was a lil dirty in the fuel tank), but nothing started. -Change sparkies.. came to life. yeeeeeeehaaaaaaa! So here's the issue. -Putting back all the interior panels etc, standard gauges... -I know there was a full tank of fuel as my hand was in it a week ago (bitch of a job!) -Engine temp=works fine. Well looks that way. -Fuel gauge=no working. Can manually move up, but just slides all the way back down past 'E'. -speedo=can't remember (not registered so didn't drive) -rev=working but seems to be out a bit. A bit delayed, won't go back below 1K RPM. -oil pressure=working but seems to be low. At 2 during warm up.. hmmm.. -Boost-working fine NOTE: About 5yrs ago (I have owned her for almost 11yrs!)I installed those 'Nismo' EL Dials which require you to pull off the needle and replace. I may have roughed her up a bit, but was working fine before respray. Now not sure where to go. Felt around in the fuel tank again and checked with a torch, seems as though all wires are connected (wires from the lid to the pump, and wires that go from the left of the tank to the fuel level sensor although a bit dirty with brownish build-up on connector) and nothing else floating around. Don't think any other wires have come loose. I was thinking of trying to swap with another cluster panel to see if was my standard cluster. Any other suggestions? wanna get this beast back on the road... Thanks guys, gals, peeps, all!
  6. ADR's with these are that they are meant to be swapped over with some import vehicles during compliance... not all do though...
  7. Yeah, best to take of the front guards, then undo the black plastic cover where the cords lead up to the body. Undo the bolt that is holding the clips together (one side of the plug clips from inside the vehicle and the other on the outside the vehicle) and whaaaala! mmmm gearbox.. gonna be a bitch if u ain't got no car hoist! Won't be safe if ya by urself and the gearbox drops on ur arms.. jack the car up as high as you can, place front on stands (or even better - back end on 1 layer of 'beci blocks' (20cm off the floor) and the front on 2 layers (40cm off the floor)) . U will need a decent workshop jack that will reach the gearbox at full hight. Undo tail shaft first. next is a gamble, but I did mine by undoing/loosening all the bolts around the bell housing(i think its called) thats connected to the engine. make sure you can get to the top of the bell housing first! Remove anything else attached to the gear box. Now place the jack extended up to meet the area where the gearbox support is or near centre of the gearbox but make sure u find somepart that the gearbox can grab onto on the jack so it won't go sliding off...) This will help when the weight is freed from the car. Undo all bell housing bolts, then slowly undo the support bolts. the jack will help support the weight of the gearbox but you will still need to stablise this by hand. Best to do this with a mate who will control the height of the jack... Hope this helps...
  8. Hey this is for drivers side by the looks of it is it? cheers.
  9. hey im liking the s2 dash and gear surround but will only be able to offer $50 for it if there are no scratches on them (mine are silver, but s1 with scratches).. No insult intended, just broke ass unemployed uni student.. Cheers
  10. hey im keen on the FD rx-7 rear light garnish and the head light scoop. How much total and delivered to Brisbane postcode 4101. Cheers
  11. hey im new to this website.. but reading ur problems.. i have asked Dr Phil and he has advised me that getting 200k's out of an r33 would be pretty average. that would be thrashing it everyday, full ehaust, boosted to 15 pound and air filter. i just did a test recently which involved driving around like Dr Phils grandma- exectly like a grandma and not going over 3000 revs, shifting early and not letting the blow off valve release(no boost anyway) and i was stoked that i got 320 k's out of it. its usually bout 250 which includes a bit of both driving methods.. but it is known that r33 temp sensors are sumtimes faulty which cause overfueling... hope this helps
  12. is it authentic nismo.. cause mine was but i got t-boned and its ruined... im in brissi as well...
  13. Yeah tan. $2. come on mate. :wassup: from west end skyline :flamed:
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