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R32 TT

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Posts posted by R32 TT

    Quaife Rear Diff

    in Drivetrain and transmission

    Posted

    Hi guys. Should have some feedback on this soon. I've run a Quaife in the front for a couple of years and was waiting for a rear to become available.

    Bought the rear early this year and it will be replacing a Nismo GT Pro - so will be interesting comparison.

    It's in the car and fitted - but am also doing E85 conversion so will be another 3-4weeks before I drive it I think.

    They require the later halfshafts that are. 31 spline and measure 32mm diameter.

    They should be more 'aggressive' than the standard helical diffs in Nissans but of course without the low speed clunking and binding of a clutch type diff.

    Looking forward to trying it

    Dms 50Mm Suspension - Targa Spec - Suit Bnr32 Gtr

    in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)

    Posted

    Yep these are no problem at all on the street. I think the valving in them is the reason for that. They are 'firm' due to medium-high spring rates but pretty good at ironing out those little bumps and are never really harsh. Being Targa spec you can imagine they have to be an extremely good all rounder.

    Also DMS are fully rebuild-able - so if ever you wish to tune them up a bit or alter valving/spring rates etc you can.

    The only reason I am changing is that I am trialling some AST 5200's and being looked after very well by the distributor. Sort of a sponsorship deal if you like.

    You don't see too many AST setups on GTRs that I am aware of so will be interested to see how they perform.

    Dms 50Mm Suspension - Targa Spec - Suit Bnr32 Gtr

    in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)

    Posted · Edited by R32 TT

    Hi guys,

    Have for sale full set of suspension (coilovers and shocks) and all mounting hardware.

    Drummond Motorsport DMS50's

    They are currently on car and will be taken off when sold.

    (so if you are local you can come see and feel on-road)

    They have DMS 'Targa Spec' spring rates and valving. 9kg front, 5.5-6kg rear. Springs are tapered progressive type.

    (This pic below is not mine - just pulled from Interweb - but this is what they look like (but maybe dirtier at the moment :) ).

    $2300 ono.

    post-20408-0-44884500-1384050483_thumb.jpg

    Piglet's Rebuild Of His Busted Tomei 2.8

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    Well, true. But $400 plus for a set of front pads. Taking the piss a bit!!!!

    mate, as discussed - you'll also find they look after rotors nicely. Figure that into your cost calcs. If you put in a $200 pad that chews out rotors - what's the real cost then?

    Also don't be surprised if they don't have quite the initial bite that you're used to. But, they'll be consistent right through the temp range. Trust me they are good.

    Spat Power Steering Belt With New Ross Tuffbond

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    not dis regarding every one elses posts, but I haven't really had any trouble with the ross balancer. I've driven close to 20,000km on mine and only spat a power steering belt once,.. that's with over 400rwkw

    I recently pulled the balancer off... the key way, the pump and the crank all look to be in good condition

    that was on an R33 crank using an r32 power steering pump

    I also suspect that if the harmonics were out it would show up as volatile on the timing log graph??

    That's fair enough too. I'm sure it doesn't happen in all cases. Perhaps a few of us have had specific engine combos, or even a bad 'batch' or what I don't know. I can only speak from my personal experience which is just one engine. I'm sure the majority of them out there do not cause an issue.

    But - I think its fair to put up what I did experience in case it helps others diagnose a problem before it becomes a er... bigger 'issue' as it did for me.

    Spat Power Steering Belt With New Ross Tuffbond

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Thought I'd just chime in again on this subject.

    RB26/30 is back going again - fixed the bent valves due to the cambelt jump - all good.

    It now has the custom ATI (with Crank trigger 24 teeth - posted on previous pages) and rolled off the Dyno with almost no real testing and went V8 Bashing at Powercruise #44.

    Guess what. Power Steering belt stayed on. No change to motor.

    so just to recap - had ATI originally - changed over to Ross with Trigger wheel - immediately started throwing power steering belts - tried extra tensioner (paid for it in fact..) - didn't fix the issue, jumped a couple of teeth on cam belt and lunched motor.... fixed head and put ATI back on. No dramas.

    I leave it to you to make your own assumptions.

    Ross Damper with 12 tooth trigger wheel for sale. :)

    Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Just wondering - I see people talking about check valves on these - but don't really get why.

    Isn't it better to simply be a drain when it can be, and a vent at other times? why restrict its flow direction?

    Also - I don't see the need for a filter. Think of the Catch Can as a third rocker cover. Air and Oil mist flow to it and air passes out of it (via a filter to atmosphere, or back to intake) Oil drains back to the sump just as if it had come from the rocker cover..

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