paulr33

whats price of 33R's these days

before going into solution mode, check the actual water temp with a digital thermometer it might be perfectly ok and you are changing things quicker than underwear to possibly fix something that isnt broken

ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK and when driving watch which sensor goes black highlighted when a stock sensor dies, the powerfc will highlight its name under ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK

i wonder what my front rotor thickness is front dba 4000s with 100,000 on them new are 30mm replacement is at 28mm

response and annoying is a new one pod the std airbox on it to shut it up if its too noisey

nengun have splitfires to suit ECR33 series 1 for $474 not delivered

and a std sensor failing or going out of range so before you start fixing things, you need to first isolate what it was i would suggest given you have stock injectors, its likely to be that but you should check id recommend MONITOR 4 CHANNEL AIRFLOW KNOCK INJ DUTY BOOST PRESS NEXT make sure its on digital read out (that is each item is a number) press RIGHT to clear their top score flog the car to redline and see if the light comes on check the max values for each each have their own trigger value to make the engine check light come on the FAQ tells you how to check it and change it and the FAQ also includes online emulator if you are unsure what keys to press on the hand controller

covered in the PFC FAQ in my sig there are 4 things that will flash the engine check light the FAQ will tell you

dont buy an auto gtst, resell value is crap, you are restricted in terms of mods and it will annoy you the manual GTST it light years ahead and is worth every extra cent please please please do not get an auto GTST the auto GTST also runs less boost than the manual this is why it doesnt feel as a quick auto is 5 psi factory and manual is 7psi

probably not the most suitable question in here there are dozen's of howto threads, tutorials and even the rb26 dyno results threads

no idea havent changed thermostat in summer it gets warmer quicker etc but still managable water temps i dont even have the normal clutch fan

yep 80deg is ideal operating temp the powerfc and presumably stock ECU are in correction mode until water temp is 80deg bang on that is, it adjusts the timing and richens up ever so slightly until water temp hits 80deg in my GTST i never get to 80deg, the problem is that annoying i had to remove the correction below 80deg on my 33 temp correction is disabled when it reaches 50deg, as i found it would never get to 80deg bang on so it would forever be in correction mode. now its fine and once 50deg is reached, no more correction

RPM = (SPEED / 28) * 1000 it looks to ramp at 3900rpm would be good for the street

rhdjapan.com has complete harness

GT35R + 200rwkw + walbro pump something doesn't add up please replace the fuel pump and check the AFR's

the kai model might be part of their reloaded project sounds good if its twin scroll is it twin scroll for all models or SR only option?

its company policy to give you the plague

when did the problem start? whats changed recently what have you tried and checked? what boost (if non std)

anyone want to take ownership and update the thread that has "lots of misinformation"

use it as a baseline and ask a mechanic workshop (print out the list) to check over them when i had my ECR33 checked it had 2 pages of little shit and issues the car had 58,000 on the clock and still going strong with 223,000 so check the specific detail of each item and clarify what they mean from your report the brake pad issue and keyless entry stand out the rest seem normal. i mean what 1999 car that is 2nd hand isnt going to have some level of scratches, minor wear/tear and refinishing evidence

check and ask a mechanic they sound like basic normal issues to me and most related to wear and tear i mean some of the reports you get pick up every bloody single issue and dont focus on the basics, ie engine compression, engine health, and pick out little things like dirty caps etc when more important things could be checked

"only" its a pretty key requirement that needs to be done

ebay isn't a brand

dodgy fuel gauge reading has nothing to do with state of the fuel pump

agree a normal mechanic is a good start most mechanics can sort out most normal EFI problems etc its only if you need specific help with the 4wd system in a GTR, or want a 600HP build, or some pecular item relating to a skyline its a car with a std EFI system and basic sensors, most mechanics can sort it out even a plus if you can get your own consult, is take the car to them with consult, and its christmas they can do all the normal work, and get access to the onboard EFI and fix away