PashaK

ok great, thx for the update.

Are you happy with them? Dont feel too cheap? Does the reclining and fold forward feel strong enough? Any additional observations would be great. Cheers

thanks for pointing that out, i didnt even notice the bit about road use only.

For an R33 GTST, i assume all i would need is these right: https://www.autotecnica.com.au/product/nissan-skyline-r32-r33-gtst-sports-seat-rail-sliders/ to go with these: https://www.autotecnica.com.au/product/ssp67-black/

Awesome read Steve, keep it going. I've recently been working on my r33 GTST, but with new house, new son, im getting less and less time to work on it, so I like reading up on other people's experiences in a similar boat to me. Cheers

Thanks for the heads up. Not actually running Flex at the moment or e85. I just know that they were e85 compatible. Still on 98 with a power FC so cant run Flex anyway.

I've recently just done the above. Turbo Highflowed by GCG, JECS 750CC injectors, Z32 AFM, splitfire coilpacks, walbro 255 fuel pump, Exedy HD cushion button clutch. Already had FMIC, Power FC, 3" inch exhaust. Currently sitting at just over 250RWKW

Yes its possible. I 've recently done it on my r33 GTST. Went with JECS 750CC injectors. e85 compatible, fits stock fuel line.

Welcome Grim, Nice clean example of a 33 GTR you got there. I'm also from Melbourne, so maybe i'll see you around.

No worries, Thanks for all your input. i'll keep at it.

Thanks, I believe I've done everything you suggested. I used a black marker on the boss kit so i can see where the holes were as i was inserting it. if i noticed they were off slightly, i used a small tool to move the ring into place. I also measured the diameter of the holes on old wheel and on boss kit and boss kit is 5mm, while old wheel is 4mm, but i dont think this is the cause. And i confirmed that the white ring was rotating with my new wheel and boss kit. Very strange

I have seen references of this in my research, but i dont think i'm suppose to have them. My stock wheel is fine and turns off the indicators as it should. and if they were supposed to be on the old steering wheel, what would these plastics tabs fit into? theres nothing on the steering column except the clock spring and hicas mechanism. If you could find me a photo of what your talkign about that would help alot. Thanks for the reply

Hey Guys, I've recently purchased a new momo steering wheel and an HKB Boss kit (ON-177) which is for HICAS and no airbag as my car does not have any airbags on my R33 GTST Series one (09/1993) Everything has fitted together perfectly, the black plastic piece at the back of the boss kit fits over the horn plug socket and the Hicas lug attached to the clock spring no problem. My steering column has a white ring with 3 round small lugs that fit into 3 small round holes on the back of the boss kit, and they line up perfectly, which is for cancelling the indicators on wheel turn i believe. With the stock steering wheel, indicators cancel perfectly, with this new setup they dont. I hear the clicking as the wheel is turned like you normally would hear it, but they just dont cancel. I've fitted and refitted, and checked and rechecked for hours, and nothing looks out of place. i also put the new wheel on, lined everything up, started the car, turned the wheel 90 degrees to the left, then took the steering wheel off and confirmed the white ring and 3 lugs rotated with the wheel exactly where i expected them to be. I've compared the difference from the back of the original steering wheel to the back of the boss kit, and the only difference i can see is that the holes on the boss kit are about 1mm extra in diameter than the orig. wheel. Attached are some pics of everything in question, I'm really hoping someone has come across this before as i'm at a loss as to whats causing it. thanks in advance

PM sent

As Title says, need a window motor for the drivers side for my r33 GTST Series 1. Used or Refurbished, as long as its working I'm located in Melbourne so can pick up if within 50kms or will pay for postage. Thanks

PM Sent

Yes he's on my list. Just getting all the info together first. Thanks

Guys, this thread has been a real eye opener. I'm already a naturally skeptic person, now it's going to be hard to trust any car on the market. I'm currently after an r34 GTR vspec 2, just waiting on finance approval, but i wont be going anywhere near dealers like this. Its just crazy. We should keep this thread going with any additional info. Things to look out for for the novice buyer, cars to avoid, specific things to request from seller like what certs, documentation, when to turn away if a particular doco cant be presented. Websites that can assist in the validation of a car. Ive already taken note of every helpful link in this thread, trusted importers, helpful information, but the more info we have, the less chance people will make a mistake when buying a car. Thank you all. I'll be in contact with a few Importers shortly.

yeah it does move quite easily. i had to move it into place to fit the lever into.

Well i did this also. however, araldite not strong enough. the lever started to turn, then started clicking again until the lever snapped. tried it twice. maybe the rack where the lever fits into is caught else where and doesnt want to complete its full path. ive given up for now, unless someone has any ideas

Yeah i have the issue with hot/cold with my r33 S1 also. had it for about 8 years now. in winter when i need hot, i up it to 32 degrees while car is on, i go under the dash on the drivers side, and i give the valve a helping turn, and it completes its cycle. When i want cold in summer, i lower temp to 18, go under dash again and turn it back. been doing it so long now, its just normal for me now in regards to this thread though, i also have the clicking issue so going to give it a go when i get home. I havent had face vents enabled in the whole time ive owned the car. When i eventually get it going, i expect 8 years of dust build up to blow out.

is it a big job to pull the dash out? i read the tutorial for it but have yet to experience it

thanx for the response. i might give that a try, replace the motor itself with another. im 100% sure (ok 99% sure) that the motor that goes on top of the heater box up near the top of the dash is the one i need to fix the problem i have with not being able to switch to face vents. as for the hot to cold problem, the only way i can get it to switch it to say go from cold to hot with the arrows (say to 32 degrees) the motor under the dash near the drivers left foot starts clicking and by looking at it, it looks like it doesnt have the strength to turn the pivot handle to switch it to hot by pulling or pushing on the pivot rod. i wish i could just take it to someone in melbourne that is experienced with this sort of thing and can tell me for sure instead of me just guessing.

ok, ive read just about every post about this subject on these forums. now, here are my problems. I believe the actuator motor for the air conditioning is faulty, I cant switch from hot to cold without going under the dash and help turn the motor. Also it only works on the feet and for front demister, I cant get it to work out of the front vents. i read somewhere to contact nissan about this motor, so i did. i contacted essendon nissan in melbourne and here is the response i was given: I have had a look at the actuator for the R33 and found there are actually four on the heater. There is a mode actuator (mode normally means the change from feet to demist to dash etc.) and I think from your description this may be your prolem as far as changing modes goes. This part is available in Melbourne at one days notice. The price is $175 including GST. Being an import part this would need to be paid in full at time of order and there is strictly no cancellation or return on these parts. the motor above the drivers left foot I think is the fresh air actuator which would change from fresh to recirculate or in other words block the outside air intake. This part is available from Japan with around 2-3 weeks delay. The price is $190 including GST. There is also an actuator on the upper part of the fan or blower casing. This part is described as a air intake actuator and I am not sure exactly what this does as it seems by description to have the same job as the second one I mentioned. However where it is located doesn't seem to me to be able to block air intake from outside the cabin. This also would need to come from Japan and the price is $150 Also there is an actuator called air mix actuator. This may be related to your hot/cold problem but we do not work on import Skylines here and have no diagnostic equipment to suit them. I cannot therefore give you any advice regarding your fault code. This actuator is $190 and would also have to be ordered from Japan. All parts from Japan need to be paid in full at time or order and there is also no cancellation or return. ok, thanx to that response, im more confused. i didnt know there were so many motors. what i need from you guys is to tell me which part/s i need to solve my 2 problems. i want to get this problem solved before it gets to hot as this is my 3rd year with this problem, any help is appreciated thanx

well i just got back from repco and they reduced the price for me of the ngk one to $100, orginally $159 they said. anyway, it'll be in tomorrow. for the record my mods are: 3" exhaust turbo back apexi power fc dual boost controller (btween 7 and 14 psi) pod filter front mount cooler and no cat i am still waiting to hear if my pfc will pick up that the 02 sensor is new, or if their is anything i need to do.