grim32

Just wanted to ask a quick one about the position of the steering rack and get some tips on where i should be putting it. From what ive read height wise should be in the middle of the suspension travel, people have said there is heaps more to it but cant tell me what. Reason for asking is ive got a 93 lancer which ive put the evo 3 rear diff in and converted to rwd using a sr20. Im at the point now where i need to weld up a cross member, make engine and gearbox mounts and set pinnion angle on the diff so i want to get all the info i need right before i finish any of these things. Car will be just used as a normal street car and maybe a trip to the drags but no track racing.

Yeah its a 93 model motor. Burnt a new set of tyres off it today and its unreal fun but tyres dont last long enough. Where did you run your kart at?

listen to each injector through a screwdriver and you should be able to hear if one is noiser than another. some injectors get noisey but if you are worried get them cleaned and see if that helps

I wouldnt think it would be the pump either, when removing my hicas with a lock bar i used the standard power steering pump. You have to take the back cover off it and remove the vane/fan out of it so it cant pump fluid. Put the cover back on and block the 2 outlets with bungs, i just used the power steer fittings cut short and welded so they wouldnt leak.

Thought id share some pics of my new toy, its a tony kart thats been lengthened 40cm with a gsxr750 motor. I used a calliper off my lancer and a clutch mastercylinder off a silvia frontcut for the brakes with a braided line i had made up. The throttle and clutch cables also had to be made up. This is the first attempt and there are a few small things im going to change to make it better, first thing will be the gear ratio. In 3rd you let the clutch out give a bit of gas and it fries the tyres. Had some trouble getting it to run good with the short exhaust on it and the free flowing air filters it was running extremely lean on the main jet, so far we have drilled them out to 2mm but its still got some more left to go. Im thinking of putting the t25 turbo from the front cut i got on it later but gotta finish my lancer project first lol.

Come on guys i dont need to take a picture do i? The head is off and the bottom end looks good. Has the oil and water outlets in the block and a hole for the second timing belt pulley. $50 is all i want so come and pick it up, im in the campbelltown area. I may have some other bits and pieces laying around that you can take if interested.

First post edited. Alternator sold. Can post anything if needed.

Yeah mate exactly the same

Sydney NSW

I think its the same, it looked the same size when i had them next to eachother. This flywheel is off the R32 RB25de.

Yeah thats the dyno with the RB25 although the RB20 made the same power with a bit more boost. The RB25 seems fine, no noises or smoke. Im quite happy for you to do a comp test on it. I only picked up the 3 litre bottom end cause it was cheap then had plans to later build a RB30DET for it but just lost interest. Will also consider swap for a N15 pulsar plus cash if anyone is interested.

Alternator sold pending payment

Here goes for the second time..........................just spent an hour and lost the first post while upoading photos Time to sell as i never drive it anymore, 170000kms on the clock and ive done 7 of those over the last 3 years that ive owned the car. I really dont like the idea of selling her but could really use the money elsewhere. Ill try an describe it the best i can but ive done so much to it im sure ill miss some things, Pearl paint with airbrushed bonnet, tinted windows Lowered front and back with new KYB shocks, whiteline swaybar up front and nolothane bushes Gtst diff with 4.3xx ratio Hicas lock bar with all hicas lines removed RB20det gearbox with exedy heavy duty clutch, new master and slave cylinder, braided clutch line Walbro pump (255ltr/hr), gtr injectors (440cc) Garrett GT3071R turbo on a monsta performance stainless highmount manifold and external 35mm wastegate with 1 bar spring Braided water and oil lines to suit 3" turbo back exhaust Exhaust wrap on manifold and dump pipe and garrett turbo bag on exhaust housing Reco radiator with 14" davies craig fan for ac K&N filter mounted under gaurd with 4" stainless pipework Hybrid 600*300*76 intercooler with stainless pipework Splitfire coils, turbosmart dual port bov plummed back, catch can Wolf 3d v4 ecu running ebc with handcontroller mounted on dash Dvd-cd-mp3 player with fold out 7" screen, new speakers front and rear, 2 amps, 12" sub in custom box that fits under parcel tray Retrimmed interior light tan/cream swede Gizmo shift light with pre shift, autometer boost gauge This car has all been engineered with a RB20det in it, since then i swapped the RB20 for a R32 RB25. The engineer can update the report, the car came from factory with a RB25 so said it wont be a problem. Before putting the RB25 in i installed a gates racing timing belt and a pair of RB20det cams. This head will bolt straight to a RB30 bottom end which i also have that will be included with the sale if wanted. Im asking $14000 for the car and it has rego till december, if you have any questions please just ask Photos will be up 5 mins, just want to save this first.

Anyone?

RB20 fuel rail with 6 injectors $50 Starter motor from either RB20/25 cant remember $50 AC compressor $50 RB25 na flywheel with secondhand clutch and pressure plate $50 RB25 turbo exhaust manifold with heat shield $50 Set of 6 coil packs off RB25, came on motor from importer. They said 40000kms. $50 I am in the campbelltown area and would prefer pick up but will post at buyers expense. You can post up any questions here, i will be more than happy to answer. Russell

http://www.netrider.net.au/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15059 Hi guys i wasnt sure exactly where to put this but really wanted to share it with everyone. It is a long read, 38 pages at the monent but i highly recomend reading the whole thing. I went for a ride on the weekend with some of these guys(35 other bikes) and they are a real friendly bunch. Anyway have a read and see what you think. Russell.

After you bleed it pull the pedal back up by hand then try it, it should be ok then.

Andy, nice work! I done the same thing recently but used a GT3071R running 1 bar. Im very interested to see how much timing you are able to feed into it before it pings. Any idea when you will get the tuning side of things done?

Have you been in a car with that sort of power before? Im not trying to be smart or anything but i found myself chasing numbers as well. I got to 230kw but now have it backed off to 190kw and its more than enough for me

I had to pull the spring off the strut and tac a weld on the stud when it happened to me.

Dirt

Hi guys ive seen these on a R33 4 door but i havent been able to find them for my 32, i hate the water dripping on the switches on the door, any help finding these will be great.

Due to it being fresh paint bird crap will mark it pretty easily in only a short time due to the acids in it( bat crap is a whole lot worse ). Paint actually takes 30 days for all the solvents to evaporate. A few things to keep in mind are 1. Dont polish your new paint job within the first month. 2. No stickers, badges or moulds for the first month. 3. Wash any bird or bat crap off asap 4. After a month has passed polish it every 3-6 months. Just like anything else on your car the paint work has to be kept maintained too. My car and a mates car that i painted a number of years ago still look as good as the day they were painted. If the crap has marked the paint usually a light sand with 1500-2000 wet and dry followed by a quick buff will fix the problem.

I think he means he will put the turbo on the stock motor but not push it till the built motor goes in