zanda

hey dan. I will be keen for a rap in the hills. will keep an eye out. would be good to catch up with you guys. * I miss you *

Anyone got one of these from a wreck? looking for one for an r33 S1.5, I think that the S1 or S2 will fit. please email me at [email protected]

any chance you have the air con compressor? please email me at [email protected]

you willing to seperate the aircon condenser?

I'm in. will fax form from work tommorrow. thanks john.

ok. thought so. may still be interested, but would appreciate until tommorrow to confirm. NEED to price affordable 1.5 deg camber adjustment on front. as my japanese reading skills are poor, can anyone tell me what degree of adjustment these rods provide?

at the risk of sounding like a moron - can you please confirm that these are caster rods and NOT camber rods? i.e. these will not allow me to adjust camber at all?

Jai, have you purchased these? if not I will take an r33 rear set. will call you this evening to discuss.

what part makes this car ugly?

alex to take one buttonni in fat man XXL.

the commercial TV advertising rules are quite restrictive in terms of what can and can't be shown. my current favourite is the sportivo "body-rollo" spamry that weaves all over the road to avoid LSD inspired attack-cones. then hangs a sweeping left hander, again on the wrong side of the road. moral: don't drive on LSD, and if you do, make sure it's in something inconspicuous like a camry. no one would suspect a grandad of taking acid.

previous experience with their sister mag and other car clubs (albeit with lesser nissan models *cough* silvias) suggests that anywhere up to 8 month wat could be expected. just have to fit in their timetables and see when the right number of pages become available. though you'd think that with cars as good as mine being left out of the shots, there'd be enough of a push to get em in there!

previously made an intelligent comment on that site and got no reply, so I thought I'd mke this one smarmy.. "If the definition of a hoon is one who accelerates or brakes, then how should one drive a car from point a to point b? Jump in whilst it's moving and jump out whilst it's moving? doesnt sound very safe." Ric, I'm not really sure what your point is, but to clarify a few things.. The Leach Highway incident was a media beat-up. There is no evidence that the driver involved was even speeding, let alone racing. He wasnt even charged. After 6 months of intense "investigation" he left the country and the State Government could do nothing. this is not to say that it is a tragedy. However, it is at the heart of this issue - and the fact remains that this law is 100% political stunt scapegoating. be seen to be doing something. anything! as for the ****tail of drugs and the alcohol staements - are you serious?! Hoon laws do not take drugs off the streets, make alcohol any less accessible or control their use in combination with driving a motor vehicle. the fact remains that the majority of people in this club drive sensibly the majority of the time. I hope that no one from the forums will end up on tv as the third and fourth people to have their cars impounded.

that's a bit bloody generous.

fuchs oil is fuching good. 9 out of 10 RBs enjoy it more everyday.

yes. erm, I bought your car. *ergh hem* I would like you to send ME the keys and alarm tags.... I will pm you my address and .... then you can send me the keys. .....to my car. :shifty:

there have been two major accidents this week on the corner of east parade and Graham Farmer - the sort that involve ambulances driving away with their lights off. hope that the occupants of those vehicles and your friends find peace. condolances to those left behind.

shut your bonnet flappin, bonnet face!

lol. member one sunny arvo when a vx with an A12 sticker chopped every skyline on our cruise, in order. rofl.

fane, to say that because rb25s with wolfs have got belly-up may be true - but I think that you're drawing a long bow to say that the two are a cause and effect. there is a very good looking morone r32 gtr which spun a bearing some time ago. in a really sad story, it has been rebuilt, was running a pfc, nismo turbos, great fuel pump, and it recently spun the same big end bearing in tune. so what can we infer from this? that the rb26 is a shit engine? (no!) that the skyline is a bad car? (no!) that the power fc is a crap ECU? (nope!). the simple fact is that mechanical failure is not always a result of the ECU, or the car, or the engine - and so on. as far as this relates to ECU's, and your questions, the skylines which have shat themselves recently have sometimes had wolfs in. however, they are now more powerful than they were before, are subject to greater loads - often using higher boost and turbos. as paul pointed out, the incidence of ringland failure is more symptomatic of the capacity for the ringlands to sustain 350rwhp than the capacity of the ECU to hold a good, safe tune. notwithstaning this - it may be worth asking what other support upgrades had been included? how many of these cars had baffled surge tanks, oil coolers or improved radiators? how many had headgaskets (debate unto itself) or forged pistons? the first reality is that the ECU is only as good as the tuner. we're lucky to have someone in WA who is adept at tuning the wolf - and so that's what a lot of people are using. the second is that the engine is only as good as the engine. and a ten year old rb25det is only good for about 300 rwhp reliably and any more will be pushing it. that's not to say the wolf is categorically the best ECU around, either. it can be argued that the processors on wolf arent as good as some other ecus. just do a search. however, given that we are talking about what are generally street cars, the wolf provides more than enough capacity to provide a good ECU, and has options easily at hand that are not available or not included in the base price of other ecus. as far as AFC + EBC or full ECU, I cant figure why you would buy two seperate items - that cant talk to each other directly other than via the factory ecu and the engine - when you could have a single unit, and save yourself the spaghetti bullshit for around the same price.

Mirkz, everyone is entitled to his/her opinion, but some of the answers in this thread could be best described as contrary to popular speaker design. firstly, 6x9s are not supposed to be bass drivers, they provide midbass fill. granted, if you mostly listen to rock music - 6x9s own. the debate about whether 6x9s are actually worth having depends on your music tastes and is probably a discussion in itself, but suffice to say that 6x9s are actually designed to work on an infinite baffle (parcel shelf). boxing them in a smaller box (than the boot) will certainly make them sound more punchy, but will actually reduce their response at lower frequencies. having made a parcel shelf, I can provide the following insights: 1.) get very thick MDF if you plan to use a sub later on. because of the design of the r33 factory shelf, you will find it difficult to stop vibration using the 2 child restraint bolts alone - particularly if the mdf you have flexes under load. I used 15mm mdf, and although granted I have a 15" sub, I still have had to jam the corners (you'll understand when you pull the shelf off) with foam and cladding to stop the cantilevers wobbling. a thin layer of foam from clark rubber is a good idea if you want to isolate vibrations from the chassis too - and can be had pretty cheap.. 2. ) using thick MDF will be very useful if you want to use a deep 6 or a 6x9, since the holes in the parcel shelf are actually quite small - comensurate with the piss poor paper cones from factory. the alternative is to use a spacer, which you can also cut from MDF. I ended up doing both, because I needed to fit more than 1 speaker.. 3. ) using thick mdf will mean that you will need to bevel the edge of the cut using an incline on the jigsaw (not vertical blade), otherwise you wont get the bastard to line up. this means that the best way to cut is probably to trace around the factory shelf - onto the bottom of what will be your custom shelf. this will ensure that the cut closest to the line will reflect the space avalable around the window. a leccy sander or some patience is also useful. 4.) give yourself a weekend. once you start pulling out seats and stuff, the whole thing is a bit of a pain in the arse and you'll struggle to do the job properly in 1 day. 5. ) carpet and spray adhesive can be gotten from jaycar and/or altronics relatively cheaply. I covered the spacers and shelf in one piece, as proper speaker carpet is hell stretchy and easy to work with - providing you're patient, though try not to over-handle the top of the carpet if you get glue on your hands, and try not to over-glue, or you'll find it hard to get a consistent texture. 6.) depending on how cashed up you are - you might want to do tinting on the back of the car whilst the shelf and the seats are out. this will make tinting easier and extend the life of the drivers considerably. 7.) finally, you've got to be a little bit realistic about what can be acheived with individual speakers and amps, given your budget and your end target. just like modding for performance, set yourself a goal. this will be important since it will define what you want to acheive out of the back shelf. also think about what music you're trying to make. for example, I listen to a lot of percussive music with lowww bass and have tried to think about what that means given speaker combinations and driver position in the car. conventional ICE designs usually work on the premise that the rear parcel shelf should provide fill. this is largely because it is much easier to acheive good midbass and listenining quality by spending extra money on sound deadening the front doors and using quality drivers/splits in the front (and "less quality" ones in the back). it also makes it easier to avoid muddying the sound provided between back and front due to destructive interference. if you want to use a sub in the future - this is probably the way to go. whilst there are always exceptions to any generalisation, base and sub-bass takes a lot of power, and generally a lot of cone surface area to generate, and therefore the best way to make bass will be to add an amp and sub. (jaycar make very cheap and very good amps. I understand their subs arent too bad either.) you'll struggle to get actual bass out of a factory deck. sorry for the monolgue. got a bit carried away, but have generally found that there's not a lot of knowledge about stezzas on this site - and most of what there is is wrong.

spewn!? sorry to hear about that mate. and I always though bonnet pins were pure rice.... maybe its for the best anyways - give you a chance to fix the fuggin stone chips.... hahaha

case in point - leaving drag combat, one of the members of this board was pulled over by the boys in blue and reamed thoroughly. then given a fine for undue and excessive noise. he didnt know this at the time, but he was basically charged with doing a burnout. A crime which he didnt commit. *cue A-team music* this would have been a car-impound offence under the new laws.

dont want to start a nerd-fight in someone elses thread - but you sir, are a goon!