RH9

Hey Richard, Thats really interesting about how you have achieved a different result. To be honest I think my "loss" of response was due to the ambient temp on the day we dyno'd as the dyno cant compensate for this - its just a fact of life. We all feel more response and torque when the air is nice and cold Ive made another recent change to the car, running the Kakimoto front pipe "premium" which deletes the cat with much longer primaries off each turbo. Will be interesting to see what that does. Have backed it up with a Tomei Ti exhaust so it should sound great. Maybe some E85 and 500kws from the lil low mounts All good fun. Keep the results of the plenums coming in. I will post a dyno sheet so you can see the difference I had. Cheers Andy

Guys sorry to reply so late, I see there have been a few comments re this plenum. As far as my boost goes, the issue only occurred after going from the previous turbo's to the 2530 Kai's and installing the step 2 camshafts. From what my tuner tells me the Kai's seem to hit the surge zone at 1.7 bar as another customer also runs them (also 2.6 but with Type B V-Cam) and he also has this compressor surge. Neither of us has a problem on our "older" 2530's but the Kai's make pretty amazing HP for 98 octane but its a pity there is something holding them back beyond 1.7 bar. It would seem they could make 500kws wheels if we could get a surge free 1.9 bar. With E85 they would prob get close to that HP now. Amazing little turbo's. Im going to try a balance pipe between each intake pipe to equalise spool and possibly between the 2 exhaust manifolds if I can get around to it. The plenum gave me a definite gain in the width of my powerband. My tuner said he didnt alter ignition timing and he kept the AF the same as before. Its purely from the Nismo plenum. The slight drop in torque and slight increase in lag may just be from the atmospheric pressure difference as we tuned on a very hot summers day. I will dyno again in winter and see if this is the case. I'd like to help as much as I can because this is an expensive item and I want to know more about what its done. Will keep you posted. Cheers Andy

Guys sorry to reply so late, I see there have been a few comments re this plenum. As far as my boost goes, the issue only occurred after going from the previous turbo's to the 2530 Kai's and installing the step 2 camshafts. From what my tuner tells me the Kai's seem to hit the surge zone at 1.7 bar as another customer also runs them (also 2.6 but with Type B V-Cam) and he also has this compressor surge. Neither of us has a problem on our "older" 2530's but the Kai's make pretty amazing HP for 98 octane but its a pity there is something holding them back beyond 1.7 bar. It would seem they could make 500kws @ wheels if we could get a surge free 1.9 bar. With E85 they would prob get close to that HP now. Amazing little turbo's. Im going to try a balance pipe between each intake pipe to equalise spool and possibly between the 2 exhaust manifolds if I can get around to it. The plenum gave me a definite gain in the width of my powerband. My tuner said he didnt alter ignition timing and he kept the AF the same as before. Its purely from the Nismo plenum. The slight drop in torque and slight increase in lag may just be from the atmospheric pressure difference as we tuned on a very hot summers day. I will dyno again in winter and see if this is the case. I'd like to help as much as I can because this is an expensive item and I want to know more about what its done. Will keep you posted. Cheers Andy

Hi guys, Just digging up this thread for the benefit of anyone who is considering using one of these. I aquired one from a mate who is parting out his race motor - never intended to buy one due to the price but I got a sweet deal. I was expecting more low end torque and a significant power increase. Very hard to compare todays dyno result to last time as the air temp between winter and summer is so different along with air density. Anyway; basic motor spec: RB26 bored 0.5mm Ported cylinder head Tomei 270/260 Pro cams (I think) HKS GT2530 Kai's Factory cast iron manifolds. 1.7 bar boost. No other changes other than the Nismo plenum and the weather conditions. Previously made 620nms at 5,100rpm and 467kws @ wheels at 7,200rpm (DIN). Today made 610nms @ 5,100rpm and 473kws @ wheels at 7,800rpm (DIN). Power used to drop off sharply after 7,200rpm but now its flat all the way to 8,000rpm. Boost curve is around 100rpm slower to build but still peaks at approx 5,000rpm. It has less "spool" from 3,000 to 4,000rpm but climbs much more steeply from there. Boost curve is more stable than before as it used to dip down slightly between 5,500rpm and 6,000rpm. Now it sits flat to redline. We tried more boost but the EBC couldnt control the boost steadily over 1.7 bar so we stayed at this level. My conclusion is that its a worthwhile mod but perhaps not so useful on this particular spec engine. Pro's: wider power band, more stable boost, more even cylinder temps at #6. Con's: price unless you get a good deal. Just bare in mind the plenum may work better or worse depending on your engine spec. Happy with the stronger top end but somewhat dissapointed I didnt get the torque increase - maybe just the weather?? Cheers Andy

Latest tune on 98 octane HKS 2530 Kai Tomei Step 2 cams 2.6 litre bottom end 467kws @ hubs on 1.7 bar

91 BNR32 Tomei 260 9.15mm Tomei valve springs/guides Ported head, squish areas removed on exh side Nismo 1.2mm HG Tomei 86.5mm pistons Trust twin entry 115mm intercooler Stainless exh manifolds Tomei dump pipes HKS 85mm front pipe Apexi 90mm exhaust Ball bearing HKS GT2530-Nismo Group A hybrid (2530 turbine wheel, housings, core and Group A comp wheel and housings) HKS actuators Getrag 6 speed, 4.11 final drive. 560hp @ 4 wheels 1.45kg 415kws @ 4 wheels (700hp flywheel) Dynapak hub dyno

The japs make a nice kit - www.global-z.com About 4 different rotor upgrades to suit the stock BNR32 caliper I currently use JZA80 324mm rotors with the Global adaptors - they work superbly

You can use Z32 300zx for the outter otherwise you'll have to buy genuine R32 GTS-4/GTR outters from Nissan. All R32's have the same inner so no probs there

Awesome feedback guys, yes I was told by and ex Apexi engineer that the F50 kit was the one to go for - apparently if you shop around it can be had new for less than $3500nzd (calipers/rotors/pads/lines). If your paying that much in usd your not getting a good deal - they arent gold!! Next question: spring rates The quick circuit cars in Japan are using between 14-18kg fronts and 12-14kg rears. Anyone care to reveal what spring rates they have tried? Obviously a huge downside on a road car that experiences different surfaces - so please dont bother saying "you'll have a very hard ride"

Yes thinking about what your saying and your right, I either get compressor surge at lower throttle openings mid corner of it goes nuts as the turbo's kick in. They are GT25R hybrids which are prob half way between a 2530 and a GT-RS in terms of output. Engine is still a 2.6 litre but has been uprated. I dont get a soft pedal when the fade occurs so it must be brake discs overheating - not the fluid. What is the purpose of the backing plates anyway? Do i need them? Removing them and running decent brake ducts does make sense. Oh and those of you who are running stock sway bars - your going to get a huge increase in steering response and confidence if you upgrade to thick er ones!! It was truly one of the best chassis mods i've done and funnily enough the cheapest!! Thanks guys, if you reckon I dont need the backing plates i'll rip those off before my next outing

Thanks for the feedback guys, i'm taking the car to Taupo in 2 weeks to test the new changes - its a very tight and quite technical track so good for chassis tuning. Problem is my car is far from standard and a near stock Evo 6 can match my time with only 350-400bhp!! I know an R32 GTR isnt a new car anymore but I still believe with enough time and money spent it can still do ok in the tight stuff. The car has around 700hp at the crank (440rwkw) but I only use around 550hp at Taupo. Tyres are semi-slicks, brake pads are 750 degree Apexi's. After 5-6 laps i get bad brake fade. I'm considering buying these R34 GTR Brembo's but dont want to waste my time if they wont be up to the task. Any of you guys with 32's fitted with Brembo's able to give me an idea of how much better they cope against the standard brakes?? Thanks again, as you can tell i'm keen to improve the car's ability so I dont have Evo's on my bumper in the tight stuff - well not 350hp ones anyway

Thanks for that mate, i'll get a rear bar as well and try that. Is the whiteline bar adjustable? Also any of you guys racing R32 GTR's......do you feel R34 GTR Brembo's are adequite when used on a 32? I can get my hands on a set but was thinking it might not be enough - ie: fade after a few laps. My friend says Brembo 355mm F50 is the way to go but i'm not too keen on spending that much if the 324mm Brembo's are enough. Any advice or experience on this appreciated also

Hi everyone, Finally the old girl is handling well, listed below is what i've done so far. Just wanted some advice from those of you who have gone further and are getting good results. -3/4 roll cage -front/rear strut braces -Grid TS Dancer TSC set to 20% front (alot more neutral) -Tein HA's -Hi-Cas removal kit -solid rear sub-frame cradle bushes -rose jointed rear camber arms -rose jointed front camber arms -rose jointed front radius/castor rods -Cusco 25mm sway bar -Cusco tension bar -ABS removed Car handles nice and flat now and is really "quick" to change direction - esp. since the front sway bar. Do you think a thicker rear sway bar will make it more tail happy or improve handling? I like the oversteer but I am trying to stay more neutral to keep up with Evo's through 120-140kph corners. Any advice appreciated - just bear in mind the car is road legal and only an occassional track racer. Thanks