Dose Pipe Sutututu
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Posts posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu
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Going to get 4x Toyota Rav 4 diesel injectors changed at a non dealer mechanic will set you back a bit over $4k.
So not too far off.
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Forgot to add, that excellent economy was on street tyres, normal street alignment, I recall they were Kumho KU31.
Current motor, with the silly alignment and tyres would go nowhere near those numbers.
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17 hours ago, silviaz said:
lucky to get 400km on a tank lol (though that's mods for you i guess lol)
I got better economy after fitting a bigger turbo (when purely highway driving, Sydney to Forster, got down to ~8.3L/100KM), as it takes more throttle and RPM to get on boost.
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Space X Falcon 10
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26 minutes ago, DaymoR32 said:
Aye probably dead then 🤣 will probably just pop the stock CAS back on.
i do have the paper wiring diagram with notes on it somewhere so I’ll cross reference that first
Maybe find the spec sheet and see what the resistance of the coil is, possibly it's not fried? Especially if you didn't short it
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2 minutes ago, DaymoR32 said:
If it’s been wired to 12v will that have f**ked the sensor?
Hmmmm not sure, but an assumption is maybe.
A reluctor creates its own voltage so you don't feed it one.
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You might need to trace it back, or at the very least work out which is 12V (to not use), which one is GND and which goes back to B1 and B2 (to not use).
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1 hour ago, R3N3 said:
connected to pin B1 and white (-) pin B5. Hope that helps?
This!
@Duncan can you please edit my 2x previous posts to say B1 (just incase someone reads it and gets confused)
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1 hour ago, DaymoR32 said:
black is ground and white needs to go to trig 1?
I think so, I'll have a look when I'm home later.
I wrote a post on the now defunct Haltech forum detailing this, very useful they deleted it lol.
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Looks like the connector itself on the trigger kit is pinned funny.
Make sure you're not wired to the +12V, it should be sensor GND and back to B2 on the Elite 2500 (need to find the post I wrote years ago).
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Much better graph!
Battery voltage wise, seems a bit on the low ish side but not terrible.
Would be nicer of it had a delta of 0.2V instead of 0.5V
Maybe try add in an earth strap between the motor and chassis and check to see if the power cable from alternator to fuse/relay box hasn't degraded
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Just proves thick anti roll bars all round are shit 🙃
God forbid I tell people that.
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being a R33, just bridge / delete the resistor pack next to the power antenna, done.
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48 minutes ago, DaymoR32 said:
You're a bloody legend! so i just basically turn off fuel, lock timing at 10 degrees, and then tweak the TDC angle until the timing light shows 10 degrees too?
Pretty much, once the car is running, check it again (with the engine running)
48 minutes ago, DaymoR32 said:instructions state a rough trigger offset of 97which im assuming is in relation to slightly different positioning of sensor?
That's for a Link, I can't recall the reasoning, however if you take 97 and minus it from 720 you get 623 degrees
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22 minutes ago, DaymoR32 said:
plenty of photos of the process as it will be a learning curve for me with the haltech settings.
That kit is similar to the NZ Wiring Trigger kit, this is what I have for mine (your offset might be a little different as the plate, as I'm sure each manufacturer has it a little different)
I do have the filter slightly high, might drop it
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59 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:
Should I be logging ecu voltage or battery?
you would hope ECU voltage & battery voltage would be the same
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1 hour ago, Murray_Calavera said:
Could a failing battery be the cause of the pump failing to keep up?
Maybe go log your voltage vs. RPM as you doodling around town. The issue could be your alternator is cactus which has been supplying fluctuating voltage to the rest of your car thus killing your pump early.
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One thing I do like about innovate is their ability to simulate a narrowband O2 output, great for deleting the OEM O2 and feeding that 0-1V simulated voltage back to the stock ECU.
Great for PowerFC users, Nistune users that do not have the luxury of ingesting wideband 02 data.
And before anyone says "yOu doN't nEEd O2 fEEdbACk iF yOUR tUNe is goOd" can GTFO.
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Just now, Watermouse said:
Is there a preference to brands for longevity and accuracy mate?
Anything but Innovate, their heater circuit strategy is terrible so you end up torching wideband sensors (not too sure if this is still the case, but those MTX-L ones were notorious for eating sensors).
Or if you're already on the Haltech ecosystem, their canbus wideband kits are a no brainer. Sending data via canbus not a 0-5V range to the ECU not to mention if the sensor does die, just buy a Bosch LSU sensor and wire it back in, simples.
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15 hours ago, QLDR31 said:
Whats the best way to run an engine in? Someone said idle it for 24hrs. I am not sure about that.
please don't do this, worse advice!
Just go for a normal drive, then eventually start to introduce load - don't be shy.
15 hours ago, QLDR31 said:Fuel ins and outs were swapped, so swapped them back.
Fuel Feed -> Fuel Filter -> Rail -> FPR -> (I think your car has an OEM dampener) -> Return to tank
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9 hours ago, CowsWithGuns said:
Car is fun as all hell, I'm traction limited in 1st and 2nd
you would be with the boost coming in hard & fast, do you run a proper LSD in the back? If not, time to invest in a proper LSD. The viscous one is terrible for putting power down or doing anything motorsport related.
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You'll find motors that foul plugs quickly aren't because of running rich on boost but rather the rest of the MAP (vacuum to atmospheric) is garbage and/or the O2 feedback strategy is either disabled or is utter horse shit.
If you're not cruising and idling at stoich, but rather rich, you'll be going through spark plugs faster.
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Put a wideband O2 on your car, extremely valuable data.
Stops the guessing & assumptions.
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1 minute ago, silviaz said:
Is that taking into account a properly tuned aftermarket ecu?
Dead stock tune, if you slap a wideband O2 on them, you'll see it hits high 10s.
Black smoke is fine, keeps things cool.
Daymo's Back! - R32 RB25DET NEO
in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups
Posted
You can just swap the pins at the CAS connector side.
You could go old school and use a test light to see which pin is going back to B1 on your ECU