SDEWY5

yea u should

i got a Just jap alloy radiator, $350-400 and never had a problem wit it, might not be th best but it always does its job ( about 18 months old now).

i had this exact same issue and though my car is a R33 gtst, id suggest you get a mate to push up and down on the car ad put your hand in the wheelarch with your finger on the upper control arm bolts. Hard to initially track down for me as the vibration and noise seemed to reciprocate through all the front end suspension. I pulled the bolt out and greased it up and put it back in and it hasnt come back yet (few weeks now).

id be curious to know the answer to this too, has happened in a mates R32 GTSt a while ago.

likewise, really want any sort of decent low mount manifold really, not keen on high mount. 6 boost dont make low mount manifolds hey?

this is interesting, i have Tein SS with EDFC and mucking round with the damening settings i cant notice anything really changing, if you guys think its fairly noticeable i might have to see if theyre working properly...

the superstreets arent very low at all, i run them. With my kit on its hellla low but its a f*n big kit. Get some HSD's if u want to slam it. they go so low the chassis will hit before the wheels will...

Hi all, had a set of castor rods lying round for ages, finally the bushes on the stockers failed so i replaced them with the ones i had, just a generic fully adjustable solid type. Question is, i wouldnt be surprised if it was true but are they noticeably noisier to drive on? Mine is, im going to have another look at it tomorrow. Also on a tangent i remember reading a post on someone runing G4 8 piston brakes and one caliper fell off? well when checking the suspension i inspected the bolts for the calipers and they had loosened right off. Just thought id put it up for anyone else running the G4's. Cheers, Chris.

i bought one with plug end on it, i plugged it straight in to what looked like the right harness under the dash and wat do u know, it worked lol. didnt think mine was vehicle specific but maybe it was by fluke.

that is fkn terrifying...

ur smart.... (no im not being cynnical lol u really are)

Have had this problem twice and its only raised its head when the clutch has copped a thrashing, overheats and then it struggles to grab for up to a week after its been thrashed, both on different exedy heavy duties, one 6 puck and one 5 puck. Throw it out and get something better i reckon. Putting a HKS twin plate in mine now.

hunting sounds like bov or vacuum leak (hole in something), will c ause it to foul plugs over time too

i understand that but it is consistent with the relevant scenarios i have explained, does not ever spike unless it is dead cold and run up to temp 70+deg C and then hit, spikes, reset and then everything is normal again...straaaange, havent yet had time to drive it to check afm voltage, will def make time on sunday and see what happens. Its visible out the rear view mirror that the spike is happening, big black plume of smoke.

the images dont explian much unless the crank is TDC, the cams should rotate 2 times to the cranks 1 rotation, the pics u have put up look roughly where they should be. Rotating the cams and crank back to their marks from where they are should not cause any damage.

lol

interesting, thanks for the feedback guys i will be checking the AFM voltage as that seems it could be a good indicator. The pump is a Walbro...never been that happy with the sound of the pump when it primes itself when ignition is turned to reds, makes an odd rubber on rubber friction noise, hard to describe, best description would be when you sit on a leather couch and hear the cushions rub together...odd i know...replacing with an 044 soon. JEM tuned the car just before christmas last year, not sure on rail pressure but will now be checking it. I do know the overall tune is pretty conservative for reliability (used to do alot of supersprints and had a fairly long stream of bad luck with engines failing).

First off, if im hitting roughly 75% duty cycle, making 270kw and running a GT35 at 16psi does 620cc sound kinda right? Theyre std hi-flowed injectors. And main reason for this post, does the PFC have some sort of overfuel safety thing? when my car is cold i never drive it on boost, only when its up to temp will i give it a squirt. What ive noticed is that when i initially give it a hit once its up to temp the duty cycle seems to spike by about 10-12% (black smoke fromexhaust running rich). Then if i reset the hand controller and give it another hit it will register normally again from then on. The whole car runs immaculately but this odd spiking in duty cycle has got me scratching my head. Anyone know what im on about? (also im not running an o2 sensor at the moment but i didnt think that would have any effect on overfuel) My boost control is 100% stable, 16psi on the dot all day everyday...

Fink a presenter? hah...that would be sick...even better Chris Easton, a durry in one hand and a red bull in the other alllll the time...

my synchros r toast...funny but, 1st to 2nd r fine, 3-4-5 r munted...

i cant fkn break my box...ive tried... N where did u get trade price of $2600 from? ive been quoted by 2 separate reconditioners, less than $1300 for synchro and bearing replacement for my whole gearset (bar i give them the box out of the car).

that fkn sux! really? how do they do the test? ive heard of this mumbo jumbo lazer temp sensors but never heard of any1 being sprung using this method of testing

RB= Race Bred...aint no such thing as refinement heh..

the dose noise is the cavitation of your compressor wheel when u get off the gas, the manifold pressure tries to escape back out the turbo making that fully tabouli noise..

the bled air has to go somewhere once the solenoid is open, if the plastic cover isnt removed then the air cant escape....doesnt do shit in short..