aDrew_C

Price drop... $2000

No dump, only comes with what's shown in the pic.

Geniune NEW HKS GT2835 ProS up for sale. Internal HKS wastegate with 2.5" straight inlet. One of the best and easiest to install bolt on turbos for an RB25DET for both power and response. Strong wastegate and easy to mate up to intake piping/exhaust dump. Good for 400+rwhp I bought this in late 2009 and never got around to using it since my plans for my car never eventuated. It has been sitting sealed in the box since then... I'm asking $2100 with shipping to anywhere in AUS included in that price. Located on the Gold Coast if pick up desired! Send me an email on [email protected], PM me, or call/txt Andrew on 0432 289 126

Spotted some supercar in Tweed Heads today and I have no idea what it was... and I know my supercars. It was silver and had QLD plates but I wont post the plate details unless anyone thinks they know it. Was as low if not lower (seriously) than a lambo and would have to have been 2m wide.... so the stance was pretty lambo-esque. Front had two circular lights either side, kind of like a Zonda but I din't get a good look at the front. Side had two big vents with sort of fins kind of like a Saleen S7 but only 1 or 2 fins. It had squarish intakes sticking up behind the side windows like a Countach but less boxy. The back over the engine like a Diablo/Countach with countach like vents behind the sticking up side vents, and vents on the engine cover like a diablo with the small rear window just like a diablo/countach. Rear from the brake lights down was very unique though.... the lights looked like a late 90's integra brake lights. Long and skinny... the car overall looked from that era, late '90's to early 2000's as latest. I seriously have nfi what this car was. I was driving behind it for 5 mins and got a few glimpses of the sound and it was nice, but I don't think the driver put the foot down enough but it sounded V12ish for the most part. Anyone have any idea? lol probably not... it's a qld car and the qld section doesn't have a thread like this.

You should probably mention the E85

Being a 31 owner myself I can backup how bad the standard tank can surge. I'm only making around 250rwhp and get surge turning corners even slightly aggressively under 3/4 tank, under half a tank i get surge when accelerating hard. My 2L surge tank is going in shortly, I was planning to relocate the battery to the boot and mount the tank where the battery is located and use my walbro 500hp pump as a lift and 044 as main pump after the surge tank. I know the walbro is going to cause issues with overfilling the tank, but will the tank being being in the engine bay help this at all or greatly increase the heat issue due to... being in the engine bay

So obviously we need to all be rich and buy cars like ther Ferrari F40 and McLaren F1 which GAIN value. I'd like to see top gear do a test like this now with newer versions of these cars... well an evo instead of the 3000gt.

Thanks for the feedback, looks like I'll be sticking with standard cams. Now ecu choice? I'm leaning towards the Haltech Platinum Pro R32/33 plug in pending local tuners view on them.

Have been told the same thing by my mechanic, so it's really down to the result I get now. In theory bigger cams should always shift the power curve, but a lot of people here state that poncams (256dur 8.5 lift) have no noticable effect on low end and increase midrange and top end by a good margin. I guess it depends on the turbo. The turbo is a HKS 2835Pro S and i'll be using a Greddy intake plenum with standard 70mm TB. Respone should be good with this setup but if cams can get the midrange to be a bit beefier while keeping VCT then I'm all for them. Again, it will come down to how the car feels after the first tune.

Basically just need to know what mods will keep VCT and what ones will not. I have a microtech LTX-12 at the moment, got it cheap and wasn't concerned about VCT at the time so didn't research it. It's a plugin for an RB25DET, does this ECU support VCT? From searching I can't find anything that says it does, so I'm guessing it doesn't. Now if I'm right that it doesn't support VCT, I might be looking at a new ECU (depending on how happy I am with my next tune after next mods). So far I like the look of the new Haltech Platinum range as well as the Vipec V88 or Link G4. I will have a speak to my tuner about which of these he thinks is the best option, but need some feedback here about the haltech platinum pro range for R32/R33's. Basically, because I had a microtech, and thus no longer have the stadard ECU, AFM, loom and whatever other sensors that have been replaced, will this cheaper plugin option still be worth it? I don't want to run an AFM, and i know the ECU does support MAP sensors as well as MAF, but would I be better off going with the Platinum Sport 2000 for the extra money considering my already hacked loom and no AFM's etc? Does the Sport 2000 support VCT, I know it supports VTEC, but not being a plugin for an RB25DET would this cause problems or would it simply be a matter of my tuner enabling VCT control and adjusting when it comes on and switches off? Ok now the next thing - Cams. I know that you can only use an exh adjustable cam wheel as an intake one will not allow VCT to work, but what about drop in cams? Tomei poncams are the cheapest so I'd be looking at some 256 duration and 8.5 lift exh and intake. I've noticed HKS sell their exh and intake cams seperate, besides the reason of countering intake/exhaust flow balance is this also because an intake cam will not allow for VCT to function? I'll only be looking at cams if I can't get the power I want without them, since my goal is 280rw/kw with as much response as possible.

Can I ask why people wan't a shorter ratio? I've got 4.375:1 right now and find it a bit too snappy and violent for an rb25.

I've seen a lot of 34's with 10.5 +11 to +15 rims and they fit perfectly. 32's don't have the same kind of guard realestate as 34's but that's a rough starting point for offset, most likely something around +15.

350Z's with brembos use a different offset to the hub, think they're like 49mm where R33/34 GTR's are like 53mm, would have been your best option for a local product. But no luck there....

Con: Gay colour Con: You then proceed to buy a gay clear cover as to advertise your new found sexuality to others Next comes some new rims:

I got some springs which have markings on them 62 180 008 and 62 200 006, now from measuring the first two relate to IN Dia and height respectively in mm, so the last numbers I'm guessing refer to spring rate (8kg/mm and 6kg/mm), which is not what these springs were meant to be. My measurements are: FR: Coil ID top and bottom - 62mm Wire OD - 11mm # of Coils - 6.5 RR: Coil ID top and bottom - 62mm Wire OD - 11mm # of coils- 7.5 The # of coils depends how you look at it but this is close enough to give me a good idea of whether I was sent the right springs or not. Thanks for any help Gary!

GT4088R gets my vote for sure or twin GT-RS's if you have to go twins. 4088R will get you the power without sacrificing response too much.

Only go for a bigger tb if you're seeking peak hp and don't care about driveablity. I'm staying standard...

Proper GT3071's do come in T3, look on here for traders, Slide sells them. Also places like horsepowerinabox.com, don't know many other places as I haven't been in the market recently. I would suggest a highflow for your initial goal, but considering you want more power later, a 3071 is a good choice. You'll need to decide if you want internal or external gate. Internal is definitely better for mild tuning, but for over 250rwkw can cause issues. Internal makes buying the right turbo a lot harder so you'll need to do your research. I'd still recommend internal even considering your final goal of a 2.4L. On that note, a 3071 should still serve you fine for any upgrade you can do to a RB20, including stroking, that is unless you're searching for peak power in sacrifice of a good average power curve.

Yep, it also quite a bit shorter wheelbase though.

Might just get one of these for when my Greddy plenum goes on, bit of a "why not" thing if you have the plenum off already.

I've never seen a 600hp 3076, that's 3040/30R territory. Proper 3076's are 500HP. A 3071 can get him 450hp, but not with much head room. A 3076 otoh is pretty much a guaranteed 450hp with supporting mods without that much difference in response.

Not really helpful I know, but this thread is one of the rare moments where I'm happy I have a 31. Fark the turning circle is good! Pisses over small cars like my n14 pulsar and pretty much anything I've driven.

Ceramic turbine wheel and nylon/plastic compressor wheel. Highflowing the existing would be a great option if it's an OP6 rear housing, which I'm pretty sure all R34 GT-t turbo's are. The rear housing is what holds highflowed RB25 turbos back the most so you've got a good candidate for a highflow there. Given what you wan't I'd say definitely go for a highflow.

Doesn't matter if you plan to do it on the cheap, the costs will add up and there's a lot of unexpected costs. If you aren't building it yourself, it will cost more than $15k, minimum. For the power you want it's not worth it, you will get the response out of an RB25 for that type of power with a highflow and the whole thing will cost you under 10k for all supporting mods and tune. If the engine lasts a year or three, great, not the end of the world. Build it then when you have the experience and can decide if the extra power is worth that kind of money. Get over the idea of having to get a built engine. It's not necessary for under 300rwkw.

I've got a 4.375:1 diff in my car and it's quite a bit too snappy for even the RB25. Was very necessary with the RB20, but it's just too lively with the stock turbo. With an RB25DET 5 speed I'm getting 3100rpm for 100km/ph which doesn't line up with what people on here are saying. It's not a daily anymore so this doesn't piss my off like it used to driving on the highway, but still, 1st gear is almost useless and if I put my foot down i'm in 5th wthin 10 seconds and wishing there was a 6th. If I ever go 3ltr I'll definitely be going with a 3.9 ratio. Luckily for me the R200 longnose was in many cars with taller diffs such as the Z31 and earlier. Pretty sure auto Z31's were 3.9:1.