simpletool

Indeed. Have my R33 back on the road after 5 weeks. Don't see anywhere near as many on the roads as even 2 or 3 years ago.

I've look a few times and it would appear there is no front fender braces for R33. Pity.

You need to look at stronger valve springs at those boost levels. That's about the only hardware that really needs attention assuming the tune is right. As for driving before tune. If you have the same injectors and AFM then it should run fine under vacuum and very low boost (1 or 2psi) .

Thread revival. I don't suppose anyone has a review of the new MCA range now they've had them fitted? I'm looking at MCA performance for R33 but the 10/4kg rates are making me think otherwise. These used to be 10/7 when they were reviewed here last. The front to rear difference has me concerned. 4kg is about the same as whiteline springs while the front is more than double. I just can't get my head around how these won't understeer like crazy. Shockworks have a 8/6 as standard package but no stock for 6 weeks.

Had a lot of experience with RB25 between stock and exedy. I'd go Exedy everytime unless you do nothing but cruise. Exedy is 6.7 and stock is 9.8 or some such. Most of that difference is rotational inertia (ie. depends on distribution of mass from centre). Anyway it will make the car more responsive and the lower the gear the bigger the difference. There is a small reduction in inertia when taking off and hill starts but nothing you won't learn to ignore. My exedy has the spiral centre for cooling the clutch so with those you also notice a turbine type air sound while revving.

I got a new box landed for $2100 from RHD about 2 years ago! It comes in a nice Nissan box with rope grab handles at each end and full of oil

Yeah I can still see them clearly by clicking. Those pics would have been on my old computer which was thrown out years ago. Sorry FWIW the only thing I had to remove was the starter motor and I replaced all the hoses under the plenum, the one to the turbo behind the plenum, the hoses to the heater hose valve, the valve body on the firewall, the hoses from the valve body to the heater core. so yeah every hose. For most hoses I used universal hoses with 90deg and 135deg bends from Repco/supercheap. Used genuine hoses from block to heater (4 hoses) and I think one of the 135deg bends up near the front of the plenum near the fuel pressure reg.

I would have thought the obvious problem to the understeer was the front sway bar was harder than the rear (stock S14)? Or am I missing something, is an S14 bar hard or even softer than stock R33? surely it is much softer than whatever diameter whiteline you have - consider diameter^4 for rate? Obviously you first need to put a bit more pressure in the tyres. And you can quite easily try bit more pressure in the rear than front ~say 3psi to try and dial out understeer. After that put on a stock front bar. Or put on a whiteline rear bar on (but I understand the advice from MCA say harder bars don't provide more grip > because they tune what they sell with stock sway bars).

Yep. Do a compression test. If it passes ok and has consistently cy between cylinders then start tuning. Stock internal R33 RB25DET is one of the best bang for buck tuning engines you can get. Gearbox will be fine but throw some new oil in. Flush the coolant, get a good radiator, keep the stock shroud. Flush the oil with diesel oil (not fuel) and put some good oil in. Then proceed.

18x10 +18 is a sweet spot but obviously depends on personal pref. Sent from my SM-N910G using SAU Community mobile app

PWR 55mm one in the for sale section atm.

Why not PWR? They are the choice of major motorsport teams. Also how much glycol are you using? The less the better for cooling. You really just want anti-corrosion and some gycol as lubricant. And adding some panels/shrouding will definitely help.

Double post

Going to Costco for a 12pack carton of microwave popcorn. Please discuss Full Monty v twin plate v stage 4 button.

Probably timing belt since that gets whiney and noisy if: 1- the belt is a gates racing or similar. 2 - is too tight. 3 - probably both. Take off the top timing belt cover (after you carefully remove the CAS) and tell us what you see. I'm guessing a blue belt.