simpletool

Sumitomo Z3 , I got 235/40/18 for $250 each. 235/40/17 SHOULD be around $210 a corner. Much better than 595SS which was my last set of tyres. Stiffer sidewalls, more grip (especially in wet), quieter.

Wow 10" width with +20 offset. That'd be fat. I've got rolled rear lip and my 17 x 9" +38 measure 15mm space left before touching inside of guards with 255/40 tyres. So that'd be 17 x 9 +23 and it'd be just touching the rolled guards.

Good luck with that. I figured selling an R33 would be hard....might just keep mine and buy a 2835 turbo kit.

I'm using MT90 but never used shockproof. I chose MT90 as I thought it has lower friction modifiers or whatever they are called. I thought shockproof wasn't recommended for synchro boxes as it's too slippery. I change slow or fast and no crunch - but can definitely crunch 2nd and 3rd if you change medium paced.

Hi, Lately I've heard a noise when I rev past 6000rpm that sounds a lot like knock to me. But only occurs after 6000rpm (20 degrees full load timing on ECU, 10psi). The thing is that the SAFC II never registers any increase in knock value at all at this point - it is hooked into the rear 3 cylinders sensor. The knock reading does work in the midrange. so do you think it is pinging loud enough to be audible at 90kph but not register on the knock sensor. Alternatively it could be something metal vibrating in my engine bay. I'm asking as it is hard to diagnose as I have reduced boost to stock and it still makes the pinging noise and base timing is set at ~ 14 BTDC. It's not like I want to have it sit and ping all the time to diagnose and I don't like any dyno operators I have found in BNE.

Hi Guys/Gals (?), Currently I've got RB74 pads and DBA rotors front and rear on my R33 GTST. I am due for brakes soon front and rear and I usually do them myself. However lately I have started observing them a bit to see if the calipers need a rebuild. 1. On the track day at QR I managed to boil the fluid with smoke coming out of the front left pads (only once ever). I thought this might be due to that caliper being a bit stuck/grabbing? 2. When highway driving on the weekend I checked the calipers after pulling into a servo (virtually no braking on highway). The front calipers were cold, the left rear was warm/hot and the left rear was warm. Is this normal? 3. When driving around slowly when quiet I can hear the pads on the discs. Is this normal for RB74 type pads? So do you think I need a rebuild on the calipers? And if so all 4 or the front or the rear? The car doesn't have any strong swerving under braking or anything like that and no ABS. Any educated/semi-educated thoughts would be appreciated.

Hmm....I have RB74 all round currently with DBA 4000 series rotors on front. Done 2 track days only and 55,000km road. They have about 5000km left. Front rotors look like they might need to be replaced (replaced when put in the RB74) and rear rotors also (didn't replace last time). I was thinking of going to ultimates since I used them on the 200sx previously but never gave that a flogging since it handled like poo. So really I don't know how good ultimates are. If they aren't better than RB74 and also eat rotors like RB74 do then I might have to rethink. Only thing with RB74 is they tend to squeel a lot, so you'll need to use copper grease on the backing plates.

Your main problem is that your car overheated ! Old coolant will not make a big difference to cooling capacity BUT it will eventually corrode your cooling system. A process that is not fixed easily by changing coolants. Your thermostat might be busted - you should get a new one anyway since they are about $70 only. Then change coolant to surfactant based as mentioned and maybe add a touch of glycol. Having less glycol will increase the cooling capacity. If this doesn't work it's time for a larger radiator.

Actually more like Bugatti making a non-turbo Veyron - which they seriously considered. The one I took a picture of in their museum in Berlin in 2004 was non-turbo. Perhaps not such a bad idea they thought - but they figured better. As for this R35 gtt - no way. But FI V36 Skyline is a great idea. You guys may laugh but I've always considered the turbo Skyline coupes to be Japan's M3. They don't have the badge but they are similar ideals. Twin Turbo V36, running 7psi would give you about 250rwkw (factory tune). It wouldn't take much for them to spec some slightly thicker con-rods and pistons to bring the comp down 0.7 or so. Then take 500rpm off the top and add an oil cooler for reliability. But the price would have to increase at least 15k more like 20k. So you're looking at $95 like it was mentioned earlier. For a 309kw, 500Nm car. Yep M3 chaser. Which might I add would also be a lot easier on clutches, tyres and servicing than an R35.

Hi all, Can't say I have seen pics of these rims on a R33 GTST before - although I'm sure there must be people who have this combo. Bought these 2nd hand last week: 18 x8 +30 and 18 x 8.5 +33. Nice wheels - very light. Previously had Rays LMGT2 17", driving on these barely feels any harsher in ride but turn-in and sidewall movement is drastically reduced.

Sumitomo HTR Z3 lovely tyre in 235/40/18. Fairly quite, high sidewall stiffness, good grip - no idea of longevity - 95Y rating. paid $250 each.

I have an R33 GTST - so perhaps different firewall strength to R34. I noticed a big difference in braking feel and pedal effort by fitting a brake cylinder brace. You won't notice the difference braking gently or in "normal" traffic driving but anything about 50% braking I noticed an obvious difference. Plenty of other people I talk to say the same. I decided to get one when I was bleeding the brakes - my GF was pushing the pedal and my master cylinder moved about 15mm with her pushing the pedal with high effort. That is a lot if you ask me.

Boost leak at one of the joiners - or core is leaking somewhere. There is some kind of inlet piping pressure check you can do with a can.........search or someone might know where it is.

I want all-types of cars involved - we love cars because they are interesting or individual or plan damn good. You could put a Clio 182 in there (they must be so cheap now! great track car/daily) or old cortina done up, hot rods, drag cars, local performance, imports, doing up BMW, Mercedes, Audi, VW - as there are going to be shedloads of used BMW, Mercedes, Audi, vw falling into REAL enthusiast hands over the next 5 years. BMW 335i performance mods anyone? Or what about E36, E46 M3 and 330i. 350z - plenty of discussions to be had on bolt-ons up to the supercharger & turbocharger kits. 370z too, V36 skylines. Not to mention the continuing Skylines, Supras, WRX, Evo, RX7, RX8, Mazda 3, Mazda 6 MPS - Especially the Evo X. All-in-all I think it should be real world and technical. You can add over technical content to break-outs and sidebars. Just give it the technical point of difference and don't limit it to the bogan "I only drive X-brand of car crowd" cause we know they only have money for cigarettes or car mags - you can guess which one they choose.

Depends whether R32 or R33 and whether 4wd or 2wd. It hasn't been an issue with my R33 gtst - a touch of oppy lock many times around 100kph - no vague feeling - behaved almost like an AE86 or S14 (OK actually a fair bit better than S14)

Holy sh!tballs, that would require some guard rolling/pulling, removal of inner linings, negative camber and stretched tyres (prob 215/45) to get under the front. The rear would need a roll and pull and 215/45 as well. Prob still wouldn't fit. The rims would stick stick just outside of guards at the front leaving you open for defect notices - this particular defect is something the cops are starting to hand out like candy due to all the 200sx and silvia "rides" getting around with that look. I'm not a fan of the Kai's though - too 2007 for me. Streched tyre fad will look ghey in a year or 2 as well. Fine if you want to update your rims like your boyfriend updates his shoes. IF you want a good fit with correct tyre sizes the largest front is either 8" + 24 or 8.5" +30 Rear is 9" +29 or 9.5" +35 (assuming you want to fit 245 or 255 tyres to suit) Even these may require lipping the guard depending on camber and tyre width but on average would be level with inside of guards.

That seems pretty low for stock idle fuel pressure (std runs more than that - I think 3 bar (45psi). Injectors on stock run out around 215rwkw - depends on what you mean "run out" cause they will keep supplying fuel just not enough. Not enough fuel with more air = KABOOOMMMM !!!!! Busted ring lands on 1 piston the absolute minimum (cost for basic rebuild at least $4000) Obviously (for a physicist or engineer) flow rates and therefore HP of injectors are based at a certain psi - (the only way you could possible give 1 figure), but they ramp up with more psi. You would probably get around 240rwkw at 1 bar with your setup if it was tuned properly. This can be done with stock injectors if you want to have them running about 65psi of pressure (above atmosphere). Now if you were a damn builder how much extra water would you put behind a damn built for say 215mega litres? Because you injectors are like a damn wall at this piont.

Essentially these are the perfect size and offset for wheel arch filling R33, R34 (non-GTR). v. easily clear brakes - even 324mm discs and calipers. IF you know your offsets you'd know you can't get any better fitting than these, as wide as you can go without any scrubbing. (I do not know this guy btw - just letting everyone know who asks the same questions)

You'll need pics to show the type of rim, 350z track rims is used to describe either of 3 different types of 18's. Pity you're not in QLD I'd snap them up.

Hi, I want to buy a set of either of these 350z rims (350z forums are all rarely frequented) Either the forged Rays track spec or the "anniversary" wheels: see pics Located in Brisbane.

There was a kit on the group buy section about 3 or 4 months ago. I think it might be exactly what you were after, go looking in group buys.

What offset did you get for rear? the +29, 8.5" all round? I thought they would be a good choice too with 245/40/18's.

I think overall diameter of 245/40/18 is closest. If you want bigger on rear you can go 265/35/18 - but they'd cost a packet more. I'd go with 245/40/18 all round. Oh and what offsets did you get, do they look good?

I figure maybe: If you lower ride height as long you don't have to increase spring rate (or bar rate) then you should get more even distribution over both tyres which would increase grip. ie. such as reducing roll oversteer - which I take as high rear ride height (and soft springs) causing roll onto outside tyre and therefore less grip. - but i could be wrong. Interesting discussion.

The usual Garret choices are: GT3076 (aka GT30R, diff trim only to 3037) with a 0.82 rear good for up to 290 to 300rwkw) - about 15% more power potential than 3071. 76mm compressor, 60mm exhaust wheel. Best to get this in 0.82 rear to take advantage of the larger compressor flow. If you want more responsive get the turbo below - no such thing as best of both worlds, physics doesn't work that way. Full boost around 3600 to 3800rpm as stated above. GT3071 (similar to HKS 2835 for RB), make sure you get the full T3 housed 60mm exhaust wheel, and recommended a 0.63 rear housing. Same turbine wheel as above turbo with smaller housing and 56 trim 71.1mm compressor. The smaller rear housing and less rotational mass on the compressor means this turbo comes on about 400rpm earlier and makes up to approx 250rwkw. Full boost approx 3300rpm. Once you get used to either turbo they'll be responsive enough for you. If you prefer to short shift and not rev out all the time, the 3071 might be the go. If you want head room 3076 is the go. After running a 3071, swapping to a 3076 wouldn't be much work and vice-versa.