BADR33

what boost control are you running? i would have expected boost to hold up better with E85 due to the increased combustion gas due to extra fuel? did you find that the engine runs a lot cooler? EGTs will be cooler its good to see some comparision maps on a dyno that can't wheel slip.. the tests we have done at work with a GTRS on a stock SR20de+t with E85 found that even with LINK G4 ecu and boost control (i think its called vipec over there) we couldn't stop boost creaping up from 14-16psi from approx 5700rpm although we think the internal gate was the limiting factor with that turbo. now hes running a GT2876R and a 38mm wastegate with no issues. I'm hoping that early next year i can get my car tuned at my workshop on E85 once my fuel system is up to scratch. 324kw on 98 pump gas on 19psi on a stock rb25 on a dynapack dyno would be interesting to see what gains there is on my setup. best part is i can have a simple switch that can switch my fuel, inginition, boost tables to suit the E85 worst part is theres no E85 on the pump in NZ. and its approx $2.5 per ltr here. 98s expencive enough at $1.82atm sinthetic oils are what iv been told to run. 5w30 for street cars and 0w30 for race cars if its too thick the oil pressure is to high even when the car is up to operation tempature.. we have been using elf oil in the ones we have done..

a cold air box is a good idea, cold air is denser so it helps reduce the spool time as the air is "thicker" helping to make your turbo more efficiant also the colder the air going in to your turbo the colder the air coming out of your turbo. the less work and heat your intercooler as too deal with. i had issues with boost control on my engine with top mount turbo with no air filter or intake due to vairing intake air temps since i made up a duct with a cold air sheild i gained approx 5-10kw due to cooler intake charge of 5-10degs (air temp sensor between intercooler and throttle body) and spool picked up 200rpm on the dyno at my work, results will vairy between setups of course. a bell mouth on the end of the intake would help even more. heat wrapping intercooler piping on the hotside and intake also help with keeping the heat out. you may want to look at an oil cooler kit to help with the oil temps, i have to cover mine for street use at night time otherwise my oil pressure sits way to high for my likling

one way to test if its rings is to drop a small amount of oil(10-20mls) in the cylinder, if compression gos up then its rings. if stays the same its something else.

if you read my post i had said Link ecu(i think its called vipec over there) dynapack hub dynos are the most repeatable dynos out there, hence why nascars etc are tuned on them, as there is no crap like tyre slip etc only thing they lack is a shootout mode for comparing against other dynos. ie if you do 2 runs in a row. with out changing anything the runs will be within .2% of each other. most people don't push stock turbos above 220kw. here is the 2 that im talking about on this page. the first one is r34 neo rb25det(VVT isnt working), the 2nd is r33 rb25det. both with links, front mount and exhuast http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/forums/sh...8244&page=2 my r33 with stock turbo, front mount, 3" exhuast made 220kw on 10psi on a basic road tune with a LINK ecu.

here in nz we get 220-240kw on 12psi out of stock rb25det with front mount and 3" exhuast and a link ecu on dynapack hub dynos standard injectors are maxed about 230kw although we have got 237kw on stock injectors. safe and ideal af ratio for turbo car is between 11.6 and 12. 11.8 is the aim getting an ecu that runs with out an afm is always good. depends on what your tuners in your area are familar with.

hey there, i took my skyline to the drags for the first time since i have had the car retuned and a bit more boost in to it. the engine has never blowen any oil out the breathers even during dyno tuning, drifting etc. first run at the drag strip and its pissed alot of oil out of the breathers so it went everwhere in the engine bay(i wasnt running a catch can) but it only does it when i back off at the end of the strip. rb25det standard long block with bolt ons engine was running approx 1.2bar, and was making between 310-320kw on the day, im was only revving to 7000rpm as thats what my bee*r limiter was cutting at. had been dyno tuned on 19psi to 325kw with no knock or problems no oil or mist comes out of the breathers under idle or free reving to redline as what would be expected if the rings were gone. car still runs fine and holds good oil pressure. engine wasnt knocking, boost spiking or anything. i own my own dyno tuning shop so i know what was done and how the car was behaving. so has anybody here had problems with oil getting stuck in the head and then pouring out under decel? what have you done to stop this with out pulling the head off? im going to compression test the engine on monday, and hopfully get it back on the dyno soon to check to see if its getting blow by under boost. if the head has to come off im going to put some restrictors in the block and an external head oil drain down the back. what size restrictors do you guys use? i will also be looking at arp headstuds and running a .5mm metal headgasket. so i can run less boost but make the same power. or the same boost and make more power. will give me a chance to look at the bores and see if it will need the bottom end rebuilt,

the car does mostly drift but a bit of other motorsport stuff as well so a bit of thinking to do this is the oil we were using http://www.lubadmin.com/upload/produit/Fic...ang_29/5285.pdf cheers for your suggestion. we will have to look for a suitable replacement

cheers for your replys guys we have just done some more testing e85 on a sr20de+t specs of it stock standard S14 sr20de+t(stock cams, head gasket etc) link g4 ecu and boost control GTRS turbo steam pipe manifold greddy intake manifold, small 200x300 intercooler. 273kw on 14psi. on a dynapack hub dyno anybody aware of any Stock long block SR20DE+Ts with more power then that? making more power and the same torque as his old s13 sr20det on 21psi did on E30 although unfortunatly the small pin hole in the banjo bolt in the turbo got blocked during road testing so its fried the turbo. so external wastegate to help control boost, and a slightly larger garrett turbo to come soon. although now were having the issue of lack of water tempature, about 60-70deg. has an 87deg thermostat what oil grade do you guys use? we currently are using elf 10w40 competion semi sinthetic in it. although i think we will have to go to a lighter weight oil. were only just starting to do some of the development for motorsport nz. im going to be looking at running some e85 in my rb25det, will be interesting to see what kind of gains i can get over my 325kw on 19psi i just have to sort out my fuel pump and then modify my 440cc subaru injectors to flow double that. do you guys find that you get ethanol collecting in your catchcan? and your sump level rising and the dipstick being flamable? i know the ethanol when its with oil thats compatiable with the fuel sits on top of the oil, from what my race fuel supplier has told me.

best pod filters we have found so far from our dyno testing is apexi ones we only lost 2kw on a 435kw rb28dett gtr, samota is rubbish, one car lost 15kw with one. average is 5-10kw k&N is alright, just depends on how oiled and how dirty it is. i havn't done any tests with the foam style hks pod filters

what heat range spark plugs are you guys running with your ethenol verse pump gas? over here we run ngk 7s in 90% of the turbod nissans we tune on 98 pump gas. as it helps aviod detonation i think from memory we ran ngk 7s in the ethenol mixed cars we tuned also. although a slightly warmer plug may benifit cold starting with the cooler burning ethenol although we havn't really don't a lot of playing around with ethenol fuel apart from a couple cars to see what kind of gains you could get out of them

shane i was talking to a guy that builds quite a few race engines, you may of heard of him, mark maholland. and the topic of itbs on na came up, he was telling me about how he built for some race car, i can't rember now, it was ajustiable trumpets with vacume operated valves, so say if you planted boot the trumpt, chamber drops right down, as soon as you back off it snaps backup. not the easyest system to explain. apparantly a couple years later they started using it on f1 cars. he was also telling me that if you spent a bit of time developing the intake system you could actually build boost, yes boost with out a turbo. its all to do with capturing the sound waves and getting it to go all towards the trumpets at the right time. it was a rather interesting conversation i must say, brought up some rather interesting ideas. all bought up by the suzuki g13b offroad racer we were tuning for the taupo 1000km race. good to hear its all running well and your doing well, good to see you also got a g4 link, there an awesome piece of gear.

factory fuel pressure regulator is rising rate of 1:1 so the same as aftermarket sard etc. the only thing it lacks is the base fuel pressure ajustment. there is only a small window of pressure increase that is benificial before the increase in injector dead time actually costs fuel flow. as fuel pressure increases it becomes hard to open the injector. all the sard regs we install at cars at my work, we just set to the same as factory reg. in your case bumping the pressure up a few psi will help. although i don't know how long your factory turbo will last on 14-15psi as the exhuast wheels like to fall off. 230kw is the limit of the factory 370s, you can get v5 sti 440 injectors that drop right in, you just have to change the plug. im running them in my rb25 skyline and iv got 277kw with more fueling to go for when i up the boost

the flutter is the sound of the turbo spinning backwards, sounds cool but its not awesome as it puts quite a bit of load on the compressor wheel and the shaft.

the lower % mix means the car runs a little nicer when its first cold, as you may find with your e85 the car is a little harder to start on very cold mornings. 20% removed all knock from the first sr20det we tund on it. we have a supplier in nz who we buy pure ethenol fuel off, then we just measure it and pour it in. we can buy premix, but you get better value for money out of pure ethenol. i have a gtslink g4 ecu (same as a g4 storm but a plug in for twin cam skylines and has 6x injector drives) the g4 link has an amazing amount of features, you can run switchable fuel maps and also switchable boost maps. if you run with the boost control with the link g4, its amazing how awesome the boost control is. you control the soliniod like an injector as such. you can make it so no pressure gets to the wastegate actuator to bring boost on faster. and you can free boost the turbo to hold the boost up top if you need too. there is also allowance for air temp sensor ajustments so you run the same boost all the time no matter what the outside air temp is. and tps ajustment so you can make full boost on 20% throttle if you wanted. there so much more advanced then power fc, no afm, and just a huge range of features, more then what most people will ever need. over here there considerd to be very simlar to a motec etc, just $1200+ cheeper i would suggest you try find some 550s or similar just to allow for the extra fuel required by ethenol to get the same af ratio as 95, the link will idle your car fine with that. we get sr20det idling normal with modifyed 370cc to 650cc with a link g4, power fc is a little harder from what i have heard. the main part of getting the full result is your tuner in the end, the more familar they are with the software the better they will understand and the faster they will finish the job. over here its $800-$1000 for a full pump gas dyno tune with switchable boost maps. i will try get some dyno sheets from the sr20det we did the 30% tuning on with before and after. i don't remeber if i said this before. the supplier of our ethenol has done a fair amount of research on it, and e30(30% ethenol 70% shell 95) has approx 105 octaine.

yeah i have to agree with the last post, 6x coils is alot better then wasted spark, its just a cheep repair rather then an actual performance mod. my opinion has changed due to having a dynapack hub dyno at work so i have seen a vast range of setups, unless your ecu has ajustiable dwell time for the coils, mitsi coils are no good when you start pushing on the motor. they require 6mili secs of dwell to charge verse 3mili secs for standard coils iv now reverted back to 6x standard coils all though i have done a small repair to prevent arcing to the metal bracket i put tape around the metal bracket, then gasket goo on the base of the coil, installed in to bracket then filled the gap between the coil and bracket with goo, fixed my miss at 3500 on 14psi. the superspark coils or the similar red ones are worth approx 10kw over the whole rev range over even the repaired standard coils with out changing any timing or fuel. from my tests on the dyno

i recken you need to bump up the compression more, run a e30 fuel. im not sure if the rally side of motorsport is allowed to run ethenol fuel yet. i know its been approved for general motorsport use. although you then possibly want to play around more with your extractors and look at throttle postion ajustable trumpets. and some form of a ducted cold air box. im still waiting for you to come down to wellington with your crazy setup. the link has the ability to be tuned via tps for setups like this, the newer g4 link is even better with sequencial injecton. on turbo cars it has 4d mapping, so you can tune it to make full boost on 20% throttle if you wanted.

r33 rb25det, cheep stainless top mount manifold, 50mm trust wastegate, 3" turbo back exhuast with external plumed back, 440cc subaru injectors, 500hp walbro fuel pump, chinese chrome greddy style front facing pleninum, 72mm throttle body, 600x300x90 intercooler, 2.5" hot side 3" cold side fueling 440cc subaru injectors 500hp walbro fuel pump electronics link g4 plug in skyline ecu with inbuilt map sensor link g4 inlet air temp sensor link g4 boost control soliniod bee*r rev limiter (not a power gainer, just sounds wicked) engine hardware standard rb25det long block chrome greddy style pleninum(nice casting, doesnt leak water) cheep stainless top mount manifold modifyed to suit turbo 50mm trust wastegate custom built td05/6 turbo cheep 600x300x90 intercooler 2.5" hot side piping, 3" cold side 72mm alfa romeao throttle body trust type R blow off valve 3" turbo back exhuast, no cat, 2 resonators, splits at diff in to 2x2.5" exhuasts external plumbed back standard coils regood to stop miss fire heat range 7 plugs gapped to .8 drivetrain nismo 2way lsd rb25det gearbox jun lightweight flywheel full face organic clutch plate gtr pressure plate there is probly some more i have done but i can't think of. 277kw on 16psi with out leaning on it. full boost 3700rpm(tuned for more torque and power over having boost earlier) the next step is 19-20psi, but i will mostlikly need a new clutch and new coils. then the 3rd step is a e20 e30 tune on 19-20psi

we don't have e85 on the pump over here. the best we have is mobil with like 5% ethenol. we have done some dyno testing over here in nz on our dynapack hub dyno. we had a standard internaled s13 sr20det, with a hks gt-rs turbo, link g4 ecu with boost control and airtemp, steam pipe manifold, small front mount, rx7 2ndary 800cc injectors. on 98 pump gas it made 220kw on 20psi at the rear hubs. on our custom e30 blend. (3ltrs pure ethenol to every 7ltrs of 95 pump gas) it made 260kw on standard cams and intake manifold on 20psi with no knock as what guilt toy found. it took an extra 7degs timing on 20psi over the whole rev range, reduced over heating issues when drifting also. managed to hold power and torque up untill redline, rather then the usual sr20 power and torque fall off. we have also tested e20 and had very similar results. with my car im going to tune it for 98pump gas on 19-20psi. as my ecu has the ability to have switchable fuel and boost maps i will then have a swtichable fuel map for a e20 or e30mix. although my injectors (v5 sti 440cc) won't be big enough so i will either decap them to 800s or decap some standard 370cc ones to get 650cc before i can get that far i need a new clutch as mine will start slipping im guessing when i up the boost and then change the fuel, could be looking at a 60kw gain over my 16psi 277kw. we are also building a sr20de+t with standard compression ration of 10.4:1 running 20psi and ethenol fuel, specs of the engine are a bit shady at the mo, weather its got forgded DE pistons or run standard bottom end is undecided. i won't have a result for a few months im guessing as the engine has just been stripped ready for the rebuild.

for you guys with series 2 or r34s you can get ingnitors off other cars like subarus and stuff. if you use mitsi coils you just use a mitsi ingnitor. you just pair up the wires from the ecu before the the ingnitor. From what i have now seen through through my work with our new Dynapack hub dyno is that the factory configuration of 6 coils seems to work best with the red coil replacements, there quite a bit cheeper over here in NZ. though in saying that were dealing with a lot of aftermaket ecus with only 3 coil channels hence running the factory coils in wasted spark. when i get my car going again... been 5months since i blew the gearbox, just finishing my custom pleninum. im going to do some testing on the dyno to see if there is any change between 6x coils and mitsi wasted spark, although im running a plug in G4 Link ecu( called somthing differnt over there i hear) so it runs wasted spark no matter what. though on a side note the red coils from what we have seen are good for up to 450rwkw on a rb26dett on 22psi before they seem to run out with the wasted spark setup. factory ecu dwell time is 2milli seconds for the coils

hey i can get HKS style for $220au delieverd, bolt on for rb26, i have used one on a rb28 with no issues. brand new, duel entry, all mounting hardware with -6an fittings if your interested let me know, im in NZ. cheers

hey if you still have your series 2 coil loom id suggest you strip that down to just the wiring and find the wires that are the ingnitor wires. the power wire is easy to spot as that links all coils together. i will try get a photo of the one that has just been done on my mates car. i havnt wired one up myself but one of my friends has done a couple of series 2s with wasted spark.

hey peoples i was helping a mate with his 1999 nissan gloria and it keeps dropping coil packs. we tryed to wire in wasted spark but because we couldnt find the ingnitor it made it harder to sort out the wiring. i had a couple of gos at it but it wouldnt fire up. does anybody know the firing order of a vq30dd? even a vg30 could be helpfull.

hey man. i did send you a pm on d1nz but havnt heard back. check out the forsale section on d1nz for some links to my trademe auctions. if its coil pack loom exchange its 180 plus postage. so thats coils and leads. if you just want the wiring and coils its $100. cheers.

where did you go to get yours so cheep? did you order online? i may just have to go to supercheep and try get them through there as there is no fulcrum in NZ are they the blue ones that you got? the 69.5mm part number is spf1800K? and the 80mm one is spf1799k? im just redoing/finishing the suspension in my skyline.

ok i personally find the misti coil packs easyer to use and they look alot better. i can get a set of 3 for $33 from my local pickapart wreakers. so for less then $100 i can do wasted spark. iv been running wasted spark for about 30,000ks and my ingnitor is still fine. some aftermarket ecus run wasted spark. well i know that the GTSlink runs it as wasted spark. iv now done this conversion on a r32 rb20det, s13 ca18det as well as r33 rb25det. if your doing this conversion on a series 2 rb25det you can use a mitsi 3 chanel ingnitor off a v6 mitsi. ie v6 gallant.. has been done by a mechanic mate on a 275rwkw rb25det. im not to sure on how to wire it up but it really cant be that hard. all you need to do is double up the wiring in to the ingnitor. so instead of wiring 1 and 6 on to 1 coil pack. you just join them on the ingnitor. i will try and get a hold of a mitsi ingnitor as well. when i get hold of another set of mitsi coils ill be making it for my skyline as i dont like the look of the buick 1.