Dan_J

running 15psi at aftermarket wastgate oh right stock boost solenoid, used to limited boost until up in the rev range ( i'm way too comfortable with rb20's, forgot newer rb's run such trickery ) cheers for that now to see if my new de-pinning tools will work better than my old method of using a sharpened metal nail

thanks for the response, thought it might be different for the stagea. i just got a response from matt at nistune, ecu boost sensor is pin 47 ( at least on the r34 ), had a look on my S1 C34 stagea ecu loom pinout and there is no wire so confirmed s1 stagea didnt come with boost sensor ( s1 c34 runs s2 r33 engine with r34 type ecu harness). does anyone with a c34 know what that plug is for? i will most likely unpin it from ecu harness and pin it into pin47 for boost sensor on my neo nistune setup for s1 stagea

hey guys, just confirming that this is the ecu boost sensor plug for s1 c34 stagea pin 104 ? or at least looks like the r34 variant thanks

well generally adjustable cam gear settings play with the powerband of an engine. when i played around with my rb20 i advanced intake and retarded exhaust, done in incremental adjustments with full boost test runs to find the sweet spot, i found i would hit full boost earlier in the rpm range, however i figure i was robbing top end power Note: make sure you at least have a wideband sensor or is run on a dyno for such adjustments so u don't lean out and blow your engine

^ looks like a custom CAI box to suit factory snorkel stao, thats a great price on the afm, i cant seem to find Dev industries anywhere , care to link me up to where i can purchase it ? thanks

will be binning this soon

bumpity bump

my bad, maybe its just a Victorian thing. been awhile since i looked it up >.>

grind/ face off the old rb30 number and engrave/ stamp a 25 number off a broken 25 technically you cant legally register a rb30 as its an older engine in a newer body

well i personally dont, but hey each to there own....

or just ditch the clutch fan and shroud, run a thermo fan with "S" type blades, not the straight type. it all works fine

i had no clue e85 reacts badly to aluminium, albeit poor quality aluminium none the less. do most just run stainless set ups, or is it just the luck of the draw with aluminium?

i'm wondering if we can get a sub forum for wheels, if i remember correctly we did have one at some point on the old forums. this way we dont have to spend hours trolling through engine parts when one is only looking for wheels does anyone have thoughts on this, discuss ?

bump am neg

am after a rb20det afm, at a guess the 20de would be the same part number located in vic thanks

i've got a s2 c34 awd auto transmission left over from a manual conversion, was working fine before hand. good for a body valve upgrade swap while you have use of your car , then slap the upgraded tranny in over a weekend will throw in a flywheel, torque converter and auto shifter for FREE selling for $300 VIC- SE

+1 maybe 3 yrs ago a friend of mine that had a brand new Captiva ( lady driver) and the engine blow, not too sure on the specifics but new engine was required. bmw's seem to fail too and the repairs are not pretty on the wallet

do most tuners really run 10.1-11.1 for the final tune at WOT? seems a bit too rich, i can understand running that rich to iron out the lean spots and then bumping up the afr to 11-12 at WOT for the final tune

i dont see why there is a need for a rb20 specific turbo, just need to gain more response out of the ss1-3 range,

if your looking for a cheap rb20 injector, xr6 injectors will work with different o rings and spacers as the xr6 injectors are longer, or you could just cut the plastic section off the top of the injector and it will fit will no spacers as i've trial fitted one stock xr6 injector just to mock up. note: factory xr6/xr6T injectors are a down grade and smaller than 270cc http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6x-New-Genuine-SIEMENS-875cc-80lb-Ford-Falcon-BA-BF-NA-Upgrade-Fuel-Injector-/151321721730?hash=item233b7a3b82 scotty might be able to get them in a better price http://www.sau.com.au/forums/user/63525-scotty-nm35/ for a det+t id run a normal thickness metal headgasket so that the compression is not changed and still higher than a det

has anyone drilled into the stock turbo oil feed section onto the block before....... looks like you need a long drill ?

indeed, much like after market camshafts, pipe ID in manifolds will set the powerband

should lose response but gain a tiny bit top end with an aftermarket exhaust manifold, stao has done the tests himself, but yes e85

ultra grey FTW water pump,oil pump still going strong a year later with no leaks but in all seriousness might as well get proper gaskets if you have the time

so on my daily stagea i've got a innovate motorsports MTX-L wideband kit and i'm currently on my 2nd wideband sensor. first one i bolted up to the o2 factory bung so after a few months readings were out due to heat, so welded a bung at the end of the front pipe just before the cat and bought a new sensor. after re-calibrating the sensor out of front pipe in open air started working ok for maybe a couple days then started to get bad readings from 8 - 22. obviously such readings are too rich and lean for a car to actually run and i even get readings stuck on 14.7 and all over the place, on the rare occasion the dam thing may work properly for a few minutes. i've recently read up on the problems of innovate wideband kit and its meant to have a few problems as i've stated so i'm wondering if i should just get an AEM kit and does the AEM kit do laptop data logging? which aem kit should i go with ? would also like to hear from others that have experienced the innovate motorsports wideband kits and have negative comments to add thanks