Pal

sorry to hear, will keep a eye out south of river.

1994 S1 R33 GTST stock engine Walbro 550hp Fuel Pump Highflowed RB25 turbo, waste gate hole ported Highflowed SR20 injectors to 600cc 3" exhaust and highflow cat FMIC Nismo adjustable FPR GFB Boost controller NPC Single Plate Clutch and NPC Billet Flywheel Apexi Power FC Pulled 355rwhp or 264rwkw at 15 psi

never ended up getting the sards. were sent to the wrong workshop that was over east and before they got here Aaron at in tune performance ended up pulling out the sr20 injectors and finding wrong o rings so fixed them and the sards will be sent back. still have the stockies but gunna keep them in case i need to put them back in for some reason. Sorry Eric

found out that the bottom o rings were wrong. replaced and all ok. had the car tuned to 355hp @ 15psi. needs to go back as still getting a bit of knock. thanks for your replies guys. Eric

thanks guys. dont need them flowed just tested to see if they are definitely stuffed

Hey All Bought some 600cc high flowed sr20 injectors to chuck in my car a few weeks ago from a member over east for $550 . Had them fitted at the beginning of the week and they all leaked causing my engine to hydro lock. My tuner has now ordered some new sard 550cc's to go into it but i am thinking to get these tested to make sure they are stuffed and getting back to the guy bought them off to try get some of my money back, if not, give him a bad trader rating to warn other people. anyone know of a local shop to do this and a rough cost.

max you will get with stock turbo is about 200 to 210rwkw

Watched land of the lost last night. was very funny. i love will ferrell

you guys have way to much time on your hands

cant even see the reo from inside the engine bay but if you put your hand behind the bumper you can feel the top part of the reo.

this is basically what ive done.

how do you guys go with the fitment of FMIC's in 33s. i had to trim some of my reo to make it fit before and now i have completely removed the section that the number plate bolts on too leaving only the top section of the reo. im guessing this is illegal but i cant see how they fit otherwise! im thinking about getting some black mesh for the front and making a aluminum cover across the radiator support panel to cover it up a bit.

just unplugged the auto computer and plugged in the manual. have got a SAFC2 and had that retuned on the dyno. if the car is stock, it shouldnt be a problem. just plug it in.

everything in it was new!

well its around 260 -270 every 6 months. sorry

its ok to be able to save up for one but realistic minimum costs are 10 to 12k for car 800 for a set of tyres a year minimum 600 per year in rego 160 bux a fortnight fuel if you take it easy 100 bux a fortnight on insurance or 2500/y 120 to 150 per service per 5000ks or 3 months if you do it yourself so generally its gunna cost you about 350 bux / forgnight just for general running. if anything goes wrong that will go up very quickly

mine squeaks in the fork pivot point all the time. every 6 months i pull the boot off and get in there with some grease on the end of a screwdriver.

Hey All, put in a NPC single plate clutch with billet flywheel in my skyline at the end of last year and had no problems with it until about Feb. It now squeals when going down through the gears and when taking off from a stationary position. It is starting to get annoying and worried with the hoon laws these days that the po po are gunna hear it and think im spinning wheels . has anyone had this problem and how to fix it without removing the g/box.

im still running my auto diff ( 4.3) after i had done a manual conversion a few years ago. slowly modded my car up to just over 230rwkw and not really having traction problems in a straight line. put it off balance (going around corners) and you got a bit of a problem. its still up to your right foot. if you dont want to spin, dont put you foot down. personally i think it would be a waste of time and was thinking of putting a manual diff in. my speedo is 9 km to fast at 100 km/h and putting on about 250rpm on where a manual would be. have run down the quarter mile and always have problems getting off the line, where as my fellow skyliners with there manual diffs get off so much cleaner. hope this helps

COD4 on pc here. internode 15 and nic name Bulletholes. on as much as i can. go the hardcore.

your SMIC is good for around 290rwhp. 10 psi is safe but many people have wound it up to 11 or 12 with no problems. BUT many have and popped a turbo. need a aftermarket ecu or piggy back if you are going to do anything, and a good tuner.

$250 + postage

i still recon its down to the tune. as far as i know the stock computer runs rich and with all the other stuff on there and running rough at the top end will be the r&r. need to get yourself a tunable computer or get yours chipped.

mine was doing the same thing at the beginning of the year after i put on my high flow. just wanted to go to 17 psi no matter what i did. ended up being that the tune was to rich and over boosting. to fix i put in a 2 1/4 " restriction plate in and a re tune with a SAFC2. only goes to 11 psi now. was it doing it before you decatted?

ran a auto ECU when i done my conversion for years. put a manual ECU in at the end of last year, the only thing it did is clean up the idle a little and a bit nicer power curve.