Simon-S14

normal should be around 88 ish degrees. anything over 100 while idling is too hot. what sort of fan do you have? stock or thermo fan?

cams + gears would give the best gains

thanks mate, yeah my tuner knows what i want, but the fact is it still makes plenty of peak power, while we havent even really pushed for big numbers. I'll post results when i get them anyway, but thanks for your help mate.

the reality is, if you want 220 + rwkw, you're going to have lag, an RB20 needs at least 4000 rpm on board to start pulling. some like this, some dont, if you dont then stick with 200 rwkw and run a smaller turbo which will give you more midrange punch for the sake of 20-30 rwkw up top

thats a pretty big increase in the midrange there which you would notice on the street, with yours running a 25 turbo you may see even better gains up top.

thanks for that mate, has given me something to work with, I have set the intake 4 degrees advanced and exhaust 4 degrees retarded, rather then setting them both at zero then having my tuner spend time pulling them apart and setting it up anyway. So taking note of what you have said, i'll go set the exhaust back to zero and go from there.

its not so much about the width of the tyre but rather the quality of the rubber your using which will detirmine the amount of grip available. I run a 235/45/17, because its a common size, therefore quality tyres can be had cheaper. i'm over stretching, i rather run a 235, rather then a 215 or a 225 on a 9.5 inch rim for the above reason. as for semi's on front.. .some people like it and some dont, i personally prefer to run similar gripping tyres all round to keep the balance the same. i dont actually mind a little bit of understeer as it helps with high speed drifts. Since a lot of drift battles and qualifying runs take place after a lonmg line up while sitting and waiting, any heat that is in a semi tyre will be long gone, so your stuck with an un performing tyre straight off the bat. Hence why i think street tyres or R tyres are better then semi's.

hey guys, ive installed some cams in my rb25 in the hope to bring on a stronger midrange, however once dyno'ed and tuned up the results were the opposite to what i was after, Peak power went up by 20 rwkw, and midranged suffered... however with a bit of tuning we were able to get the midrange back up to where i was before with the stock cams, so i hadnt lost anything. It was then decided to get cam gears and chuck them on and retune it, was waiting for the weather to cool down a bit before we retune but should be tomorrow night. I want some insight as to where we should be looking to go with the cam timing to get the results i wanted. As my car is used for drift, a broad midrange powerband is much preferred over a dyno queen style set up. VCT has gone also. Now im no expert, but it looks like according to this sheet that the cams have a different base circle to stock RB25 cams, so as they sit, the intake is currently 10degrees retarded anyway and the exhaust 4 degrees advanced. stock cam specs http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html So anyway, any thoughts on which was we should go with the cam gears?

looks like there are gains to be had with cam gears

possible probs fuel pump coil packs spark plugs start with these, and go from there, a dyno run will tell you if its leaning out (fuel related) under accel or if its spark related (misfires on dyno)

i will happily post dyno charts, getting it re tuned very soon with cam gears, so expect less peak power and more midrange as that is what im after since its a drift car. My tuner and the workshoo which has the dyno is extremely reputable in Adelaide, with what is regarded as the most accurate (read, not happy) dyno in the state. in no way are figures fudged, and the fact is im not even after peak power... my tuner has the whole time been trying to gain more midrange torque (which was also the idea of cams.. but that was a slight step backwards with stock gears) in my opinion... the 3071R does everything the 3076 r does.. but spools earlier.ll... it is the best all round turbo. for me it was never about the numbers. but rather the response and torque

you got your priorities wrong buddy....

its true... mine cranked 290 rwkw the other day with a cropped 3071R, and 1.2 bar boost to do it. i was making 265 rwkw on 1.2 bar, then chucked some cams in it and now its making more power on same boost. the 3071R is an awesome all round tuerbo for response and power... they will make 300 rwkw, but not anything massive over that.

that makes... no... sense.... what so ever!!!

for gods sake people... the fuel pump pick up is at the bottom of the tank... regardless of if you run a full tank or on the fuel light, the pick up is still collecting the same quality of fuel. Not to mention the filter sock on the pump is so fine it would bearly pick anything up to clock tjhe fuel pump instantly... that sort of stuff takes years to accumilate shit into a filter

BHD have you got pics of your set up mate?

it may or may not be similar to what i have, exceopt i doubt the AVO wont will cater for the full 60 mm wheel. I have a cropped 3071R with a GCG cast rear housing (OP6 copy) which meets up to rb25 dump and manifold. it is a 0.71 AR. i just dynoed it the other day with cams in it no and made 290 rwkw on 1.2 bar. personally i think 0.63 is too small for a 25

AM Performance can do it, he is a guru when it somes to stainless fab work! PM me for contact details

haha nice work! yeah i moved my wiriong further up, then insulated with wrap. other then that tho it fits in there nicely!

aftermarket gauge.... right now

no, since it gets remapped anyway, same with RB20 ecu, u can use a non turbo one.

do you know what your doing? if not theres your answer right there

just to clarify once again you dont need to swap any wires or do any mods to anything EXCEPT have an external VCT controller (should you wish to run it.. i didnt) and the rb20 ecu will work once its mapped.

the ecu will work, not mods required series 1 R33 ecu's can be used on series 2 motors also.

thats what you get for going to people who have NFI you do not need new injectors or ecu to make that power, however if its runnign too lean currently then theres a high chance your fuel pump is FUBAR in which case chuck a bosch or walbro in there. once you have done that, make the effort to go and see jeff the speed lab and get him to remap it, then you'll be cranking the power. BTW: plenumn wont do bollocks all for power unless your pushing 300 + rwkw...