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Simon-S14

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Everything posted by Simon-S14

  1. Just grab a kaaz or similar aftermarket 1.5 way, no point in rebuilding the stock LSD
  2. more then likely a hydralic issue, either the slave or master has a leak and has died or the clutch peddle box has broken a few welds
  3. the GCG rear housing is a copy of the Pro S rear housing, so in theory i have a HKS turbo lol. So far seems reall responsive! time will tell.... i'll post up results soon
  4. thanks trent, i remember you saying that years ago, is there a reason for it? its blocked anyway for now... good old coke can method haha
  5. my 3071r gets a tune tomorrow... but its not a -23 CHRA sadly. still should do alright!
  6. so why did you go the 26 if the bias is that bad?? VQ30det FTW for ultuimate bias and power
  7. of course you can use the stock 33 ecu, but they limit you in terms of power and mods... you'll hit rich and retard quite early. BTW remaps can be had for hell of a lot cheaper then 600...
  8. go the 25, they are awesome, ive had two RHB20 powered cars (and my gf has a stock 32 so that makes 3) and now ive got a 25 in my 32 and i love it!. You have several options, one is to put ALL the RB20 sensors on the 25 (CAS, knock sensors, ignitor, etc etc) and use the RB20 loom and ECU, remap the ecu and your laughing. other option is to use the 25 sensors and 25 loom, and still with the RB20 ecu (remapped and tuned to suit of course) with fuel pump, fmic, exhaust you could expect to see 200 + rwkw with a stock turbo on under 14 psi (like 12 psi) the stock ecu wont do this. as for the box... there is no strengthing the rb20 box "cheap" unless your putting straight cut gears in it.,.. however if you plan on keeping it around 200 rwkw and driving sensibly theres no reason why it shouldnt last. with some drift and track work it will soon die. Cheers
  9. nice, i shall track one down then! cheers Simon
  10. yeah ive got an AFM so kinda rules out anything that vents
  11. I just put a 3071R on my rb25 and its used for track work and drift, I still have the stgock BOV, and was operating with the stock turbo etc no probs there, Now i have a custom intake pipe i have blocked the BOV up for now, my questions are... Should i hook the stock bov back up? Or will it not cope with 17-18 psi... Should i leave it? if the stock one wont do, whats the easiest replacement option? I dont care about noise or anything, i just want everything to work as it should
  12. sorry i should have specified. yoke center to yoke center PS, can you PM me drinkies number, ive lost it and i have several things i need to drop round to him lol
  13. Borg warner LSD's are junk, i'd either go a Kaaz 2 way LSD or a mini spool diff, spending 650 on a new BW LSD is throwing money down the drain as they WILL give up the ghost sooner or later. as for the install, its pretty easy to do, all you need is a socket set, a pin punch set, hammer and a vice.
  14. could be a hole in a gasket somewhere letting air into the exhaust and causing a popping on decel
  15. remap in my drifter, no issues WHATSOEVER
  16. remap for sure, they can be retuned after any mods down the track and it will always work out cheaper then an aftermarket ECU, many of which dont even have knock control.
  17. Seems to be the 56T GT2871R. Should be pretty responsive!
  18. what about a good old fashioned vac leak?
  19. its brass so it wont rust away
  20. cheers for the comments guys. will get it on the dyno this week and get a vid of that
  21. your shit outta luck as i just sold my gear today
  22. a 4 door... nooooo but im with nisskid, i need parts for my gf's car
  23. easy 25 turbo walbro pump remapped ecu FMIC full 3 inch exhaust with dump 13 psi boost =180-200 rwkw (depending on dyno and tuner )
  24. let me get this right, you have the highflow and a remap along with supporting mods and its only making 160 rwkw? the current turbo should be good for 200-220 rwkw easy. i suggest finding another tuner!
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