Simon-S14

i used plenty of CRC no worries there. I might have to call Captain thread... only prob is that i live out in the sticks so he'll prob charge me the earth for it...

sounds like a problem somewhere else, maybe the AFM or cooler pipe leaking, and not with the turbouitself

ive got a air angle no worries there, so drill out the stud and retap seems to be the best and old option hey. im in adelaide FWIW

thats all well and good but in my case the stud has snapped off inside the head, so that eliminates welding something onto it to remove it...

none was sticking out, its quite recessed in the head acctually... removing the head is not an option at this stage... might try some left twist drills tho

ive got a broken stud in my head for the exhaust manifold... its the very rearmost stud and ive already had a go at removing it, i drilled out the inside of the stud and tried to use an Ez-out to get it out but it snapped off in the hole that i drilled... im not having much fun here what are my options?

200 to 400 depends on condition and kms..

a 225/50/16 will fit no worries, stock size is 205/55/16 but not many places sell this size tyre, the 225 is quite common as its a commodore/ford size

i did mine not long ago... was a full on prick of a job to get the old bushes out, ended up using an oxy torch and a vice. Better off taking the arms out yourself then paying someone to remove the old bushes as its just not worth the headache. The new bushes go in easy enough

howd u get it off so quick

the comp wheel doesnt distroy itself thats the prob... something has made contact with it while at full RPM ... all it takes is some sand or dirt... have you checked the air filter properly?

custom braided prob. fittings are listed on the garret site if you need em?

oil filter fuel filter water pump timing belt idler bearing tensioner bearing A/C belt Alt/Water pump belt P/S belt Plugs coolant flush brake fluid flush check all bushes/braking/steering/susp components timing check clean AFM, AAC valve, coil packs This is what i do, parts total around the 500-600 mark and labour is another 200-300 on top. Most workshops will charge around 1K +

so do i lol... if your wondering what that blue glow on the rim is... well i bought glow sticks and cable tied them to my wheels lol

ANOTHER UPDATE Did stadium drift... had issues with car running lower boost and making less power a few days before hand while it was on the dyno and noticed that i had a snapped manifold stud... didnt have time to pull it all off and put it back on again only to pull it off again after SD for the new turbo going on... so anyway car was running a bit average on the night turns out i had 2 blown gaskets, the turbo to manifold and the manifold to head both blew out! Still had a ball tho... car is all stickered up, looks awesome! Got the 3071R the other day and im in the process of fitting it all up now... shes a big bitch! lol

interested, wont bother with semi slicks i'll just run my normal drift tyres all round and try and not get booted off for excessive oversteering if its 40 degrees then fark that.... it gets sweaty in a helmet!

any Dot 4 will suffice

you can and no it wont. it isnt much of a drama tho. I run an RB20 stock ecu on my 25 and have remapped that. putting an external RPM switch on to activate the VCT

MR30 l;ocally delivered skyline with the shitty L24 6 cyln "efi" motor in it... many wreakers woud have em

hey bucko i thrashed the RB20 harder then most ppl do, and it never had any issues i still reckon the CA ones will do 250 easy... i was looking into it for my rb20 but ended up getting a 25 instead

u can bled clutch yourself. crack the bleed nipple on the slave, push the clutch peddle in, it will stay on the floor, close the nipple and pull the peddle back out.. do this several times and top fluid up. done

simple math must be wrong then, cause stock injectors can flow 220 rwkw even 230 rwkw... i'd be inclined to say that the CA ones would be like RB25 injectors and flow around 250 rwkw ish before riskin a lean

yeah they are quite a bit shorter then the R33 items, i would guesstumate around 30mm... i personally wouldnt put them in your r33 as you may wind up with positive camber... best bet would be to work out why you have so much neg camber atm (is it too low?) you could get some camber bushes from whiteline and adjust it this way?

the tailshaft is a fixed length in a skyline, as it has IRS it doesnt move with susp travel. some people have needed custom front sections (me) while others didnt need to modify at all (Cubes)

that doesnt mean nissan dont put it there for no reason.... It's mainly to stop massive heat transfer into your paint, which will fade after a few months without the underbonnet protector. I wouldnt worry too much about the rubbing...