Fixxxer

I had my skyline for about 3 years, RB20 with s2 r33 turbo. I ran 0.9 bar on it a few times, but usually 0.8 and it made 173rwkw). Didn't know the history of the turbo before that. I dont know the true failure mode, but I 'presume' that the rear wheel died first, and then put the compressor wheel into the housing (only took one chip out of the compressor wheel though, I still have it sitting on my desk). Turned at an intersection and it let go in 1st gear at about 4500rpm or so, as it was building boost. (was running 0.8bar), with EBC. The motor was fine, didn't find any bits of plastic in the cooler pipes. Replaced the turbo with a s1 r33 turbo, noticed a little more lag. I guess the point is, the r33 turbo can die, and when and how it happens can be random and be different from car to car. Fixxxer

WD40 is your friend.... always. If your socket won't let you tighten up all the bolts it will leak, even if it's the centre bolt. Use some washers or a spacer to get clearance for your socket if need be. The dump pipe bolts you should be able to get from any good exhaust shop. I got like 6 or 8 of them for nothing cause I asked nicely. Fixxxer

Toluene (Methybenzene) has been around for many years (decades) as an octane booster/detonation suppressor. Just look back to F1 in the turbo era to discover the great benefits of it. You don't need large amounts to provide a 'safer' mix for road use on hot days..... if you want to run more boost, then you'll need to add fair amounts in the tank, e.g., 10% is a good ratio I've heard. I think one of the drawbacks is is can, over time, degrade rubber components in the fuel system. Fixxxer

Don't do it if you've still got the stock setup. The only thing 100W did for my r32 was melt/blow fuses, I put in 30% brighter 55W bulbs and they were brighter. If you've got a nice relay system set up, then run what you want, but higher watts doesn't necessarily mean a brighter light. Fixxxer

Mine let go turning right at an intersection, coming onto boost (doubt it would get to 12psi in first gear at all, but it let go at about 5000rpm tops), so maybe 5psi??? R33 S2 Turbo on RB20det. What about high temps + change in angular/rotational velocity? Shaft speed wouldn't have been high on mine. Fixxxer

The sensor mentioned above (the one just to the right of the gear stick behind the little slits) is the one that was not connected in my car, and I had the same problems as you (hot all the time). I reconnected mine and walah, the aircon works, and I no longer need to press the recirculate button to stop hot air pouring into the cabin all the time. Fixxxer

C is just the hex size, 5/8 inch. Same plug type though. Fixxxer

A lot of guys running the BCPR6ES plugs at 0.8mm gap find a slight miss at idle. Mine is running this setup and has a random slight miss at idle sometimes, no problems anywhere else in the rev range. Don't worry yourself over it. Fixxxer

Where do you mount the gas bottle? How big is the bottle? I would think you'd run out of CO2 pretty quickly, and isn't it fairly expensive (and totally not convenient) to fill? I wanted something similar, so I went the Autospeed route and bought a Spraying Systems TX4 cone jet nozzle, some hose, and run it from the rear windscreen washer motor (it uses the factory switch). I haven't had the chance to test it in the heat of summer, but so far in cool weather the intercooler is very cold, as compared to cold (when I don't use the spray). Fixxxer

How come we can't edit the original post??? Anyways, PRICE DROP to $12,000 ono. Fixxxer

Keep offers coming, it is ono.

Forgot, Rego till April 2009.

Make: Nissan Skyline R32 GTST (Type M) Milage: 180K body, ~90K motor Transmission: Manual - 5spd Colour: Red Location: Algester Complied? Yes RWC supplied? Yes Currently registered? Yes Price: $12,500 ono Contact: Post in this thread or PM me Comments / Modifications: R33 turbo Full 3 inch turbo back exhaust FMIC Heavy Duty Clutch Extreme Lightweight Flywheel Blitz ECU GReddy Profec EBC Custom CAI box including K&N pod filter Mongoose M80 alarm, 3point immob., windows up, keyless entry, etc. Upgraded Fuel pump Turbo Timer Turbosmart BOV Strut Brace, Lowered (legal) Earthing kit Intercooler water spray kit New oil catch can (not fitted) Dyno'd at 173rwkw @ 0.8bar Exterior 18 inch XHP Saber wheels with almost new Federal 595SS tyres Dark tint Type M bodykit Interior: Interior in great condition, no rips/tears in seats. Autometer Boost gauge Saber electrical water temp gauge Blue LEDs in gauge cluster Genuine *Skyline* floor mats Stereo: Alpine headunit Alpine speakers front and rear May sell with sub + amp package if buyer prefers Parts recently replaced: New radiator, new clutch master cylinder and slave, front rotors and brake pads, gearbox and diff fluids replaced, fully reco’d starter motor. Serviced every 5000km. New timing belt installed with new bearings and idler pulley etc, including new water pump. 180K on the odo but original motor rebuilt at ~100K. If you’re picky, the bonnet could use a respray (clear coat not perfect), otherwise, the car mechanically is A1, including all electrics. Everything that needs to be done has been, only reason I am selling it is because I have another project car, and would like a smaller car for getting to work and back (city) every day. Images: Fixxxer

Coolant lines need the copper washers on top and bottom of each (collant in and coolant out) banjo fitting. You can reuse the old ones if they are still in ok condition. Do the coolant lines up as tight as you can.... and then tighten more, or it will leak (I just went through this). You can reuse the oil copper washers if they are in good condition. Do this up good and tight too. Fixxxer

For some reason I can't see your photo? Anyways, when I changed my turbo I couldn't tighten a bolt very hard at all from the turbo to the dump pipe, so I thought I'd leave it and see how it went. First time after driving it it was smoking bad from the rear of the turbo, although couldn't exactly tell where it was coming from. I got a few washers to space out the bolt and then tightened it properly and the smoke went away. The point of the story, make sure your manifold to turbo, and turbo to dump pipe bolts are all tight. Fixxxer